Last steps to complete the outside glassing for me, is to add a double strip of FG to the stems to provide some abrasion resistance. I don't usually drive the canoe on to the shore, so I don't go for full "on" skid plates. The first strip covers the entire stem and measures 38" x 4", the second strip is ~20" x 2" and covers the bottom and then just above the waterline.
First step is to smooth down the sharp edges, at the bow and stern, created by trimming the excess fiberglass already installed. For all the smoothing I am using a sanding block with 120 grit sandpaper
Next I want to sand an area around the stems to accept the new fiberglass strips. An area of about 3-4" either side of the stem needs to be sanded down .... in this pic the sanding isn't quite far enough, it would stick, but wouldn't be full strength ...you can see all the little shiny areas and none of that will bond
In this pic the sanding is about where it needs to be, a smooth white expanse with just a hint of the weave showing
Sanding to accept the strips is complete, a note, the little weave pattern was sanded out, I just didn't have the right pic and this one was close.
Now to get the strips cut. This isn't just cutting straight strips, we need to cut on a bias so the strips will conform to the sharp bends in the stem.
Bias cut strips are cut at ~45 degrees and will easily conform to the stems
A note on cutting FG .... a rotary cutter will do a clean, fast cut, so on things like shapes and strips it is about the cleanest IMO ( of what I have tried so far). HOWEVER, you must be use a cutting mat and if you are borrowing one to try, the cutting wheel will be useless for cloth after you finish (that was learned the hard way). Since I sew, I have a wheel and mat ... and a wheel cutter labelled "GLASS", this is the cutting layout ( I cut out a piece to form a bias hem)
Strips get cut full length, then trimmed for purpose (when I trim the strips to length, I also trim the corners to ease the corners, you can see this in the applied strip pic)
I do a tape layout on the boat, mostly as a guide and to keep the epoxy contained
Apply a light coat of epoxy on the stem area receiving the strip, carefully lay on the strip and use your palms to help it form to the stem shape. The applied epoxy will help tack it in place. Just a note, I use a 3" foam "cigar" roller to apply the epoxy and roll the glass flat.
The first strip is "wet out" pretty well to remove any air pockets, then I apply the second shorter strip, starting at the bottom end of the first strip, but offset forward a bit, this allows the "feathering" coming later, to be spread over a larger area
and a side pic of both strips whetted out and starting first coat cure
The second and third coats were applied with a foam brush and left overnight to cure. For this operation, I only cure overnight, because the epoxy hasn't attained full strength or hardness, so it is easier to feather and sand smooth. Obviously, with green epoxy you need to use a mask and gloves
Here is the scraper I use and a close up of the stern bottom section next day, the scraper is set in the direction you would pull to start feathering the edges, which is towards the new fiberglass at a roughly 45 degree angle (you will adjust angle as needed, the point is to use an angle)
Don't use a lot of pressure and use short controlled strokes, it literally took 20 seconds to to feather this area out ... now I have done it a fair bit, just take your time if you try this, you will get the hang of it quickly.
the stern is pretty well feathered, you can see about mid point on the stem, where strip 2 ends, that will get feathered a bit more and disappear
Just another shot, this one of the bow area, I got a bit messy with the epoxy
those kind of drips are pretty easy to remove while the epoxy is green, this is a pic after about 30 seconds of careful strokes
You have exposed the edges of the FG with the feathering process, so I like to seal them back up. I have had discussions with other builders and it gets pointed out that I could just leave it at this point and let the varnish stage seal it up (This would be fine as well), but I can get a bit fussy and I like to start with a fully sealed exterior ... so I put a very light epoxy coat on to seal everything back up.
Time to get the mask, gloves and sanding block to smooth/roughen the areas that have new glass on them ... this is ready for epoxy
And all sealed back up .... waiting a few days for curing, then it will be sanding time for the exterior hull.
I am getting anxious to get this hull released, then I can get some weights and see how the weight budget is doing ....
Brian