So this post continues from the last post where we cut the center line and were ready to close in the football/bottom of the canoe.
Before I get into the next portion, Jim had asked a very good question about the post 2 episodes ago, about how/why my strips had de synced from side to side. I didn't really have an explanation that satisfied me ... but as it happens, I think I stumbled on the issue. I will share here because I think it is easy to overlook in the heat of the stripping process.
When you handle strips from the racks, there is a tendency (at least for me) to leave them in the length wise orientation they are in (if they are laying in one direction, they tend to be left that way) and when using I tend to use them the same way. In this case I left a very little hangover at the bow and cut the excess off at the stern. It was only the bow that seemed to have an issue and I think I know why now.
As you bead the strips, there is a portion of the lead portion that as it exits the first guide towards the cutting head, it is free of any guide and can spring out a bit, as the strips continues on through the router table it engages the guide on the other side of the table, which then locks the strips before and after the cutter.
This is what the end of the strip looks like at the bow end ... it is irregular (and higher/thicker) in the last 1.5 - 2" and in hind sight that is to be expected.
But that lead portion can and likely will be a little irregular, the solution is to simply not use that portion, so in your planning on strips use, plan to discard a couple inches from each end and you won't run into this issue.
I think Jim also posted (busy guy) about using a Japanese pull saw for cutting the ends of the strips, i do as well, here is a pic of mine. The edge fit is dialed in with the sanding sticks I already posted earlier, they make it pretty easy to get a good fit.
As you strip up around the bilge, there is a transition from Jimmi Clamps and L brackets as you continue stripping, dropping clamps and L brackets, from each end, as each strip goes on and adding dowels and shock cord at the ends, for clamping.
The last strips are added with bands/shock cords/dowels and wedges as needed to keep it all clamped. A note about the last strip, the cove is taken off ... making the dowel a little harder to orient, I found a bit of masking tape will hold it in position enough while applying the shock cord.
That is about as far as I figured I could reasonable go with adding strips, now to do the center or "whiskey" strip. This is what we have left open, a space of just less than 2 strips.
There are different ways to do the last strip, this is what I do.. first, I need to transfer the shape of the opening to a shaping jig. If I leave both sides open, the opening is a bit larger and I will simply loft the shape), but this is a fairly narrow strip, so I will take the shape directly.
First cut a piece of cardboard (or some other stiff material you can write on) a bit larger than the opening
Slide it under the opening and move around so you have solid coverage.
Use a pencil to trace out the shape on the card board ... yes, this is a little trickier, you need to use a good mechanical pencil and will also likely have to reach under and support it near the ends. Remove the card board and make sure the shape makes sense
Next, a scrap piece of plywood, some 1.5" - 2" spiral finishing nails (either is fine), a few small spring clamps and a scrap batten. Place the cardboard on the scrap plywood and put a nail in one end, at the end of the shape, straighten and put one in the other end, again at the end of the shape. Place nails every few inches (or whatever you like, I did about 4") on the curve side and in the middle of the straight side. Don't overdo the straight side, I put one in the middle because it was a couple inches longer than my yard stick and that way I git a reference point I could use better/easier
Gently pry up the card board (tip: use a putty knife to release the card board at each nail, eases the release) and you should have this, well not exactly this, this minus the clamps and batten
Use the batten and clamps to draw the curved side, use a straight edge to make the straight side, draw between the nails and end up with this
Take some scrap stock (mine was strapping 1.5" x .75", cut to ~ 2") and place then along the curve you just made and align them with that curve. I used a screw to hold them in place, with a drop of glue to keep them from shifting.
Add some tape to prevent glue from sticking, a couple small plywood scraps (or whatever is kicking around) to hold the strips flat (when you start bending they will want to flex and turn. I am also adding an "extra" strip, just to give me some leeway on the width. So I am making a glue up with 3 strips not 2 ...
To clamp up the strips, add the glue, slide them in place and screw down the flat/bar/ply clamps lightly (make sure the strips can still move) use small scrap pieces of strips to push in the strips to bend them to the form, clamp and move along. Tighten down the flat bars when the strips are all tight against the form.
And undo it all in the morning ...
Before you move the glue up, take the time to make a mark at each end ... the last piece on the jig is the end of the opening size ... so drawing a line from each end piece gives the center line of the boat ... I recommend, making the mark, adding a bit (maybe ~1/16") and then use a straight edge to draw the line, mark to mark ... the little extra, giving you some wiggle or play room to fit
In the pic, i marked the glue up and flipped before drawing the line, simply to get the right orientation on the boat. When you cut the line, you should have the right shape on the curve side and the glue up should be slightly larger than the opening
I place the curved side in position and sneak up on getting it to fit all the way down the curve (tip: make alignment marks at the bow and stern ends of the strip, so you can easily return the glue up to the same position). Then I sneak up on the flat side ... the operative word here is SNEAK ... don't try and adjust more than half of any one side ... it takes a bit longer, but if you mess up, you may have to start over. I spent about an hour fitting this one... the music was good, so just have patience at this point and don't rush it.
Placed the tape here to help identify where the glue up is
And I couldn't resist a bit of light sanding to see how it would look, you can see the sanded area quite clearly in the pic and I think the insert fit in pretty tight
Now on to the filler strips (up to the sheer) and fitting the outer stems.
Be safe, be distant
Brian