• Happy National Pfeffernusse Day! ⚪🇩🇪😋

What's happening in your shop this winter?

What is it like working with 27 chickens as an audience? You ever get their opinion on the work or just ask your dog?

In the video I noticed no vacuum on the quarter sheet sander and no dust mask. If I tried that I would be dead on the floor in no time.

Another Lauer Canoeworks restoration ready for a new home.
 
What is it like working with 27 chickens as an audience? You ever get their opinion on the work or just ask your dog?

In the video I noticed no vacuum on the quarter sheet sander and no dust mask. If I tried that I would be dead on the floor in no time.

Another Lauer Canoeworks restoration ready for a new home.


The chickens? Not a peep..ha,

Yes I forgot to wear my mask while filming, I need to be more safety conscience.

That 1/4 sander was on it's last leg from the sounds of it. It gave out while working the decks and I quickly ordered a Port-Cable 380 off eBay for the next project.
 
I brought the Bell Northstar in, the one I picked up for a six pack of micro brew and some gas money. She's (can I call her she?) been beat like a rented mule, the gel coat has so many cracks it looks like one big spider web. I have been using G Flex epoxy to repair the missing gel coat spots. I tried using the fiberglass on the big crack in the second picture, it runs down from the gunnel about 10-12 inches, but for some reason it didn't hold. So I taped some cardboard on the outside and filled the crack with G Flex on the inside, then removed the cardboard and filled that side (outside) with G Flex. My pel ply talent really sucks, so I see a lot of sanding and more coats of G Flex.
I like wood boats:rolleyes:

I think I'm going to build the rails and install them along with the thwarts and seats now. I'm not sure if the decks will get inlayed, we'll see, but once the rails are on the hull should be alot more solid and also more attractive so that might give me an incentive to try harder with this kevlar repairs.

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Well you certainly got that one for the right price. You could always use it for a flowerbed, or a watering trough for the chickens.
 
Wow Robin I thought I liked trolling for dogs on C-list. You have your work cut out for you on that one.

@Isweo how big are chickens you have? More like a swimming pool for ducks.
 
I tried using the fiberglass on the big crack in the second picture, it runs down from the gunnel about 10-12 inches, but for some reason it didn't hold.

That seems surprising. I've never had that happen though admittedly I haven't done a lot of repair work. Did the resin cure hard? Did you sand the area to be patched first? I'd be a little worried about the g-flex alone having enough strength for a permanent repair.

That boat is definitely in need of some TLC. Good luck.

Alan
 
Robin !
Do you have a flashing neo sign, or advertise Nationally ? How do you find soo many canoe deals like that ?

I have no experience with G-flex.
Just to say good luck !

Jim
 
That seems surprising. I've never had that happen though admittedly I haven't done a lot of repair work. Did the resin cure hard? Did you sand the area to be patched first? I'd be a little worried about the g-flex alone having enough strength for a permanent repair.

That boat is definitely in need of some TLC. Good luck.

Alan


I probably rushed the curing time, the resin was 50-1 and I had no idea how to figure that out without wasting the whole pint. I think I'll grind off the interior layer of G-Flex and try again with the fiberglass. The G-Flex filled the crack and the exterior came out real nice, hopefully the fiberglass will come out better. I did sand the area well before applying the fiberglass though.

Do you lay down one layer of fiberglass, let it cure, then add another for extra strength? I tried 3 small patches at once and maybe that was the problem.

I find the canoes mostly on Craigslist, some I see while aimlessly driving around. (it's an old trucker thing..haha)
 
the resin was 50-1 and I had no idea how to figure that out without wasting the whole pint.

Wow, I've never heard of a 50:1 mix ratio. 5:1 is the biggest I've run across. Most seem to be 2:1 or 3:1. Do you know what brand it was? 50:1 sounds more like the ratio between vinyl ester and its MEKP activator. Epoxy usually doesn't smell too bad. Vinyl ester smells awful.

Do you lay down one layer of fiberglass, let it cure, then add another for extra strength? I tried 3 small patches at once and maybe that was the problem.

Multiple layers at once is no problem and would probably be the norm for the type of repair you're doing.

Alan
 
I re-read the instructions: "The ratio of the resin to hardener should be 50:1. This means if the entire pint of resin is to be used, about 1/4 of the contents of the hardener (1 fluid oz) should be used."
I doubt I got it right the first time, but I have plenty left for a second try.

The resin smells just like fiberglass resin FWIW
The hardner says "for Polyester resins only, contains methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in dimethyl phtalate....Greek to me.
 
I re-read the instructions: "The ratio of the resin to hardener should be 50:1. This means if the entire pint of resin is to be used, about 1/4 of the contents of the hardener (1 fluid oz) should be used."
I doubt I got it right the first time, but I have plenty left for a second try.

The resin smells just like fiberglass resin FWIW
The hardner says "for Polyester resins only, contains methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in dimethyl phtalate....Greek to me.

I'd say you're not dealing with epoxy then. Not that it's necessarily a bad thing or the root of your problem, just different. I'm not real familiar with polyester and vinyl ester resins but the mix ratio isn't as important. If epoxy calls for a 3:1 ratio that's what it needs (with a small margin of error). Adding more or less hardener won't change the cure time, it will just ruin the batch. With poly or vinyl ester resins you do vary the cure time depending on how much catalyst you add. More catalyst means a faster cure. I believe most of them want a 1.5% mixture as the minimum. Your 50:1 would be a 2% ratio so it should be fine with some fudge room.

I'm unsure how long it would take for that mixture to cure hard. It would also be very dependent on ambient temperature (most resins give the cure time based on a roughly 75 degree ambient temp). The colder it is the longer it takes. How long had yours cured and at what temp?

Oh, and the other thing about most vinyl and poly ester resins; unless a wax is added (either at the factory or by you when mixing) the surface will never fully cure and remain a little tacky as long as the surface is exposed to the air. If you add another layer over top the bottom layer will cure. Or if you cover it with plastic wrap. If you're using peel ply you might be ok since the outer layer will be removed with the peel ply, hopefully leaving a fully cured surface after pulling it off.

Epoxy will work over the top of poly or vinyl ester resins. But poly and vinyl ester resins will not (from what I've heard) work over epoxy. The Northstar wasn't built with epoxy but using one of the ester based resins over a previous repair done with epoxy might not work.

Alan
 
I appreciate the time you took to respond Alan and your knowledge of this subject is pretty amazing. Thanks

I ground off what was left of my first attempt and tried again. I don't know what the stuff is in the resin can, there is no label but it was sent to me by the guy who built these Bell canoes and I good with that. I think any problems where caused by my inexperience. I was pretty good with fiberglass back in the day but then I'm not 17 anymore and this ain't a jacked up 55 Chevy...ha

So last night I tilted the canoe on it's side and mixed up some more resin and hardener, this time I really gave er some extra hardener for sure. 3 pieces of fiberglass soaked in the mixed resin and they laid out nicely (for my standards) This morning, hard as a rock as I kept the wood stove stoked all night too for extra warmth.
You can see the big crack, I had trimmed away the damaged kevlar, making the crack bigger, and filled it with G-flex. There is also a layer of G-Flex on the outside of the hull there.
I have already touched up some other spots on the outside of the hull with G-flex and sanded them smooth, it appears to be working well. I tried to peel one patch off with a sharp edge to no avail.

I plan to paint both interior and exterior of this canoe, so my less than beautiful patch will be covered once sanded and painted. There are some stains on the interior from what I don't know so all will be covered.

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New ash rails for the Bell glued up last night also,

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Installed the rails last night and today. I need to make some decks and I ordered thwarts and seat hangers from Eds. My rails leave something to be desired compared to original Bell rails, but I'm happy that the hull is more solid and the repairs seem much stronger with the rails in place.
I ordered thwarts because my past attempts at making thwarts has been really a joke. I'm just better off with store bought...haha

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Technically it is no longer Winter, but the major lakes here are still frozen. On the plus side the area we intend to head to in 4 weeks appears to be open water. In the meantime, there are overdue repairs to be done on the first stripper I built 4 years ago, the Bear Mountain Cottage Cruiser. Christy has tripped both tandem and solo with this boat. It is 15 1/2 feet by 37" wide across the gunwales. It has slight tumble home and a little tiny bit of rocker. Good cottage boat for sure but we pushed it past that moniker.

Overall it needs a good sand and re-varnish but there is a compression break that will be taken care of as well as rock rash on the stems through 3 layers of glass and at this point, adding a 6oz layer on the football, as should have been done in the first place.



This is what happens when a loaded boat comes up on a submerged rock. This is just in front of the stern seat and I easily heard the crunch when Christy and a friend of ours happened upon this piece of granite. It never sounds good but the damage was minimal.



Wear and tear on the ash outer stems. 3 layers of 6 oz glass vs granite.

 
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Winter is long gone up here. I finalized my plans for my real shop and submitted them to the city and I got approved and have building permit in hand. I was busy the last few weeks milling some wood for the timber frame part, and next week is starting on the ground work( cleaning the mess in the yard to be able to work) I'm hopping to have it clad to weather by winter....
 

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2x4 exterior studs? or am I missing something?

We do only 2x6 here for the added insulation value.

Timber frame structure, filled in with 2x4 stud, wrapped in 1/2 ply taped seams(Act as a VB) 4 inches of EPS on top of that, R32+ for the walls...
 
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