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Roy's Mystery Wood Canoe
- Thread starter Roybrew
- Start date
Crickey! I didn't get it squeegeed well enough. I went and left some shiney spots. I'm pretty sure I've got the cloth pressed to the wood good enough. There are no white spots so I know the weave is saturated. I've seen a little gassing out, looks like little pin head bubbles. I guess I do some sanding tomorrow when it has cured enough.
Thanks Alan. Looks are deceiving tho. I had 2 daughters so I know by experience.
No fill coats yet. I didn't get all epoxy squeegeed off quick enough, so I'm guessing I'll have to wait and sand some tomorrow before I do the fill coats. Eh oh well.
If you want to sand it you're going to need to wait more than a day.
If there are any spots with runs it's easy to shave them off with a scraper or sharp chisel before the epoxy has fully cured. It will feel dry to the touch but is still soft.
If there are spots that got too heavy I'd wait until all the fill coats were on and cured before sanding. At that point you've got to sand the whole hull anyway so you can give those areas a little extra attention if needed. Or maybe after some fill coats they won't even be noticeable. But then I can get a little impatient.
Alan
Yes ,Scrape, don't sand !
Get those Fill coats on ! Sooner the better !
You can feather the edges of the extra layer, later, or. I usually get my fill coats on, and then feather edges.
Will you add Bias strips on the stem ends ?
I reccomend two layers ! Widest one first.
Do them as you are doing fill coats. They will blend in much better !
Again, feather the edges later, after you are done with fill coats !
Here is a pic of a canoe. There are 4 layers of 6 oz cloth on that wear edge, under that varnis.
Get those Fill coats on ! Sooner the better !
You can feather the edges of the extra layer, later, or. I usually get my fill coats on, and then feather edges.
Will you add Bias strips on the stem ends ?
I reccomend two layers ! Widest one first.
Do them as you are doing fill coats. They will blend in much better !
Again, feather the edges later, after you are done with fill coats !
Here is a pic of a canoe. There are 4 layers of 6 oz cloth on that wear edge, under that varnis.
Another pic I forgot to to post. Same canoe after I scraped and feathered the edges of the extra layer, and the Bias strips on the end.
As Alan says let epoxy cure at least a week, before sanding. It will gum up your sand paper in a hurry.
As Alan says let epoxy cure at least a week, before sanding. It will gum up your sand paper in a hurry.
Ok took a break and shower. I'm starting to sweat now. Put bias strips on and they sure ain't co-operating. I scraped those bad spots with a carbide scraper, and then stupid me went over a little of the spots, that I scraped, with sand paper.
I think I understand what Alan and Jim mean about get the fill coats on. I this white look the top of the weave that I'm seeing? Going back to see if I can get these bias strips to lay down, and I guess get the 2nd fill coat on.
I think I understand what Alan and Jim mean about get the fill coats on. I this white look the top of the weave that I'm seeing? Going back to see if I can get these bias strips to lay down, and I guess get the 2nd fill coat on.
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2nd fill coat on. I guess give it about 4 hours and put last fill coat on. I think I got those bias strips laid down pretty good.
Thanks for your all's help. I do get a little wound up once in awhile.
Thanks for your all's help. I do get a little wound up once in awhile.
OK .The stem pic shows air between the bias strips and the hull.
You can leave them. But I would scrape down to the main layer, and glass new Bias strips. That was caused, by not getting the wetted cloth, tight against the hull.
Not a biggy ! If you wait a week and do it ? You will still be fine !
Fill coats are best applied, while the previous coat is still tacky ! It will reduce runs, and give a clearer, stronger bond.
Jim
You can leave them. But I would scrape down to the main layer, and glass new Bias strips. That was caused, by not getting the wetted cloth, tight against the hull.
Not a biggy ! If you wait a week and do it ? You will still be fine !
Fill coats are best applied, while the previous coat is still tacky ! It will reduce runs, and give a clearer, stronger bond.
Jim
Ok I've just had a good night's sleep. Yesterday was a learning experience. Here's what happened.
I laid my full sheet of 6oz Eglass on top of hull first then my football patch on top of that. Seemed to make sense. What I didn't figure on was the threads, from the edges of the football patch, I would pulling down the sides as I squeegeed the resin down toward the shear of the canoe. So while I'm picking at the threads to get out of my epoxy, before it started to set up, I let some patches set to long waiting to be squeegeed. After my fill coat set enough, I used a carbide scraper to scrape the fiberglass strings out. This left a whitish look as can be seen in the pictures. I did finish all my fill coats last night.
What can I do to eliminate this where the cloth is seen? It does have have the fill coats applied over it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated, trust me on that.
Going to lose my mind, Roy.
I laid my full sheet of 6oz Eglass on top of hull first then my football patch on top of that. Seemed to make sense. What I didn't figure on was the threads, from the edges of the football patch, I would pulling down the sides as I squeegeed the resin down toward the shear of the canoe. So while I'm picking at the threads to get out of my epoxy, before it started to set up, I let some patches set to long waiting to be squeegeed. After my fill coat set enough, I used a carbide scraper to scrape the fiberglass strings out. This left a whitish look as can be seen in the pictures. I did finish all my fill coats last night.
What can I do to eliminate this where the cloth is seen? It does have have the fill coats applied over it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated, trust me on that.
Going to lose my mind, Roy.
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Just a routine sanding and then varnish, most of those spots will only be visible on very close inspection. That's the main reason I put the football on the bottom, don't like dealing with the loose glass, just ends up being tidier.
Agree with Mem that some of that will go away once you sand everything dull and varnish. The imperfections will only be visible to you when you stick your nose 3" from the hull and even you won't notice them when you are out enjoying your canoe on the water!
It doesn't look like you have enough fill coats. If you look Accross the hull, you should see a smooth surface. If you can see Weave pattern, You need more fill coats.
No imperfections at all, if you just scrape those threads, as well as the edge, of the extra layer..
It's easy to get side tracked when glassing. Again you can deal with those threads and the edge of the the extra layer, After you are done with fill coats.
Jim
No imperfections at all, if you just scrape those threads, as well as the edge, of the extra layer..
It's easy to get side tracked when glassing. Again you can deal with those threads and the edge of the the extra layer, After you are done with fill coats.
Jim
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Thanks guys, going to give it till next week and sand the hull, fix the bad areas along with the stems and I agree that it needs another fill coat. Thanks again for your input and advice.
Roy
Roy
You might still be able to get resin to them. I’ve drilled tiny holes into areas like that and have been able to force resin in with either a little syringe or an artist palette knife.
Jim
Jim
