First canoe build

[Gamma1214]

I think I'm being picky because you can't see through any of the cracks I mentioned, they're just not as tight as I'd like.
I could see being able to see right through the canoe, a bit alarming to people that don't know any different. It would be kinda fun to do, just to get people's reactions. Lol

Most of us tend to be our own toughest critic (not always a bad thing) and all you'll hear when done is how amazing it is. Like most things, we get better as we learn and my 2nd looks better (and was much easier to build) than my 1st.

I am still trying to figure out how to make an entire hull crystal clear. Although it would make SAR's job harder, it would be fun to see people's reactions to an invisible boat.

 

[Kliff]

Hate to point this out Cruiser, but: You may have Travis beat on Jimmy Clamps, but his shop is impressive! Yours is still neater than mine. I need to do serious clean-up before I start another build.

 

[Gamma1214]

Oh, please... let's not drift the thread to shop cleanliness! I live by "a place for everything and everything all over the place".

 

[Jim Dodd]

Progress picture of where I'm at. It's been going pretty good so far. Only really issue I've noticed is, since my strips are just starting to curve more near the stems, the routered area of the strips are leaving a tiny crack. Pretty sure with a little fill, you won't ever notice it.

I'm wondering if I go with 1/4 router bits as opposed to the 3/16 I used, it may allow for more movement without the crack opening up.

I have the 3/16" bits, but opted for the 1/4".
There is enough cove with the 1/4" bits, to hold the strip in place, and to me ? That's what 's important.

 

[Cruiser]

I have the 3/16" bits, but opted for the 1/4".
There is enough cove with the 1/4" bits, to hold the strip in place, and to me ? That's what 's important.

I think I mentioned this before as well, the 1/4" B&C is fine... to a point, then they start to kick out of the cove because it is shallow. I suspect it is really a matter of what the hull is doing, if it is fairly flat you will never see an issue. If you get twists and turns, the B&C can start to act up.

Last build of the Key hull I used 1/4" B&C on 3/16" strips and it mostly worked out, but at the twisty bits they started kicking out. This time with 3/16" B&C there is a world of holding difference. I think it really comes down to how challenging the hull curves are.

If those beads are seating fully, make sure you are checking the coves before you glue ... make sure there isn't leftover debris in there, wiggle when you seat them and gets more Jimmi Clamps on there.

 

[Jim Dodd]

The Jimmie clamps are like an extra hand,
I use them to hold the strip in place, while I work clamping strips to the forms.
.
I still like working with the thicker 1/4" strips, better than 3/16" strips !

Jim