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I think that's normal. I keep saying that I'll build when things are slow in the winter but it seems I'm doing epoxy in the summer. Hang in there.
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First canoe build
- Thread starter TravisH
- Start date
I hope you have more Jimmy clamps than what's shown
. I started with 25 on my stripper. On day 2, I paused long enough to make 25 more. I don't know I ever had all 50 in use, but close to it.
. I started with 25 on my stripper. On day 2, I paused long enough to make 25 more. I don't know I ever had all 50 in use, but close to it.
Jim: Can't help but notice the PPE. Wish I had seen that (and heeded it) when I was cutting strips. I have no known allergies, and have been working with wood a very long time. After cutting strips in shorts & no shirt for a couple hours, covered in cedar dust, I learned the hard way cedar contains chemicals that can cause nasty side affects. I felt like I had Covid for 2-3 days.Be sure you Skilsaw, is rated for at leas 13 AMPs. Most now days are 15 AMP.
The Skilsaw method is night and day better than a Band saw, or a Table saw !
Me, some 30+ years ago, cutting strips with a 13 AMP. Makita. That saw is still capable !
My saws have evolved, over the years. A Vise grip for a handle, and a bucket to keep the saw handy, and off the ground.
This Old craftsman has done a lot of cutting !
I had no troubles with skin reaction. but yes, Cedar can be detrimental to your lungs !!! I picked up a full face mask, that I will try the next time cutting strips. There is one out there that has an air pump and fastens to your waist. Definitely worth it if you plan to cut a lot of cedar !
Good to know, at least they fairly quick and easy to make.I hope you have more Jimmy clamps than what's shown
Was able to Finally put some time towards the build. I finished up routering the strips and have a few strips installed. Issues I ran into; I couldn't find a big enough featherboard, so i had to improvise. Second issue was, the flute router bit was taking some chunks out of the strips. I noticed it was due to the wood grain. I'm guessing that after sanding and a little fill, it won't even be noticeable.
Funny !
Just today I was setting up a router, to bead and cove !
Your set up looks good.
Sometimes you can't avoid tear out, If you take a quick look at the grain of the strip, before running it through the router, you can avoid that.
Yes that strip is usable.
Just today I was setting up a router, to bead and cove !
Your set up looks good.
Sometimes you can't avoid tear out, If you take a quick look at the grain of the strip, before running it through the router, you can avoid that.
Yes that strip is usable.
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words and of course all the tips.
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As Jim said, taking a peak at the grain before running it will reduce the tearing out. (the strip shown above should be pushed through from left to right so that the blade can't lift the grain but, instead, pushes it into the strip- hope that makes sense)
Stick with it. I was coving strips (White Pine & Cherry this time) for my 3rd build today. It's incredible how much more smoothly it goes with each subsequent hull.
Stick with it. I was coving strips (White Pine & Cherry this time) for my 3rd build today. It's incredible how much more smoothly it goes with each subsequent hull.
I completely understand what you are saying about the bit lifting the wood grain and didn't even consider that.
I could only imagine how much smoother it gets, I'm learning so much, and figuring out different ways to do things.
I could only imagine how much smoother it gets, I'm learning so much, and figuring out different ways to do things.
Travis: I almost always make my own feather boards. I have a half dozen store bought, but I still make my own. By changing the length and thickness of the "feathers" you can change the force the feather board applies. I almost always have an ample supply of 1 by 4-6-8 pine. A couple times a year, I'll crank out a variety, and have them on hand. Then I simply cut to length and angle for what I'm doing. Tear out is caused by: Grain direction, chatter (vibrations) in the wood being cut, or dull cutters, excessive feed rate. Your cutter looks good, so minimize chatter the best you can. Try to feed the strips at a consistent pace. With long strips, you'll inevitably have to pause to adjust grip. When you pause, back the strip up just a bit (1/4-1") to help eliminate jamming the strip into the cutter when starting again.
I'm jealous. Haven't had time to get back to my next build. I've got a wood-canvas restoration barely started, and a set of Kipawa forms ready to go. Guess I should just retire.
I'm jealous. Haven't had time to get back to my next build. I've got a wood-canvas restoration barely started, and a set of Kipawa forms ready to go. Guess I should just retire.
I only had blow outs on a few of the strips, and it didn't seem to help by changing the feed rate. And all the router bits are new, so i can't blame it on dull bits. I'm assuming it was most likely the grain direction because I didn't even think that would matter.
and thanks @Kliff , for suggesting I make more Jimmy clamps. I made double tge amount i had, and I've been using them all. Lol
Retirement would be nice, I am a long ways off of that however.
and thanks @Kliff , for suggesting I make more Jimmy clamps. I made double tge amount i had, and I've been using them all. Lol
Retirement would be nice, I am a long ways off of that however.
Progress picture of where I'm at. It's been going pretty good so far. Only really issue I've noticed is, since my strips are just starting to curve more near the stems, the routered area of the strips are leaving a tiny crack. Pretty sure with a little fill, you won't ever notice it.
I'm wondering if I go with 1/4 router bits as opposed to the 3/16 I used, it may allow for more movement without the crack opening up.
Other issue is the bungee straps are pulling my first strip off my level waterline. Not the end of the world, just something I need to keep watching.
I'm wondering if I go with 1/4 router bits as opposed to the 3/16 I used, it may allow for more movement without the crack opening up.
Other issue is the bungee straps are pulling my first strip off my level waterline. Not the end of the world, just something I need to keep watching.
Attachments
Great progress.
Personally, I like to use more Jimmi Clamps .... my form spacings are ~`13.5" and I use 3 JCs between forms. In the picture, that is a pretty long space, at the end, for just 2 strip clamps IMO. Also as you get close to the turn to the bilge, the clamps aren't really usable in that same area ... I find a dowel in the cove and shock looped around is a handy low profile substitute.
Personally, I like to use more Jimmi Clamps .... my form spacings are ~`13.5" and I use 3 JCs between forms. In the picture, that is a pretty long space, at the end, for just 2 strip clamps IMO. Also as you get close to the turn to the bilge, the clamps aren't really usable in that same area ... I find a dowel in the cove and shock looped around is a handy low profile substitute.
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Looking great! I didn't bother filling the cracks on my first and they didn't hurt anything (IMO). About the only time anyone sees them is when it's upside down on a portage, although, at the end of the Steel River trip, I did have one guy shout in surprise "you can see right through it!" so I guess it freaked him out.
In your case, I'd agree that 2-3 clamps / station will help eliminate most of the cracks (you cannot use too many)
I've never built stapleless but if I'm anchoring a tension line to pull strips down, I usually attach to the edge of the strongback
In your case, I'd agree that 2-3 clamps / station will help eliminate most of the cracks (you cannot use too many)
I've never built stapleless but if I'm anchoring a tension line to pull strips down, I usually attach to the edge of the strongback
The dowel is a good idea, I know i won't have room for those clamps soon enough, so thanks for that suggestion.
I have found that I could use more Jimmy clamps, but thought maybe it was just me because that's alot of clamps. Lol
I feel better knowing it's not just me, so I'll make up a few more clamps
Cheers
I think I'm being picky because you can't see through any of the cracks I mentioned, they're just not as tight as I'd like.
I could see being able to see right through the canoe, a bit alarming to people that don't know any different. It would be kinda fun to do, just to get people's reactions. Lol
Stapleless definitely has its own challenges. I think I'll order longer bungee cord, so I can go from the strongback instead, like you mentioned. That way it's not pulling on my waterline.
I also thought that with that many strips and the glue, that it would be alot more rigid and wouldn't move so much. I of course was wrong, as it still has alot of play in it. But learning as we go is what's it's all about anyways.
Instead of bugee cord, I used rubber roofing cut to 1" wide strips, bike tubes, and movers straps, which are like large rubber bands. They worked great. Instead of pieces of dowel (which I tried first), I used 1/4" polyethylene tubing. It flexes just enough to follow the curvature, and didn't damage the cove at all. If there's a bike repair shop near you, they'll likely give you all the tubes you want, if you tell them leaks are fine.
You can never have too many
