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Roy's Mystery Wood Canoe
- Thread starter Roybrew
- Start date
You all are the experts. I can't wait to see the inside, I think?
Thank you DC. Looking forward to getting it done and taking a trip.
Another tip ??
Keep the center form, strapped in place, to help the canoe maintain it's shape while sanding. I saw one canoe distort terribly, that the builder was able to correct (luckily)
Sand up to the middle, from each end, and then remove the center form, and sand.
Really takes quite awhile for the epoxy to fully cure.
Your doing fine !
Love the color pattern !
Jim
Keep the center form, strapped in place, to help the canoe maintain it's shape while sanding. I saw one canoe distort terribly, that the builder was able to correct (luckily)
Sand up to the middle, from each end, and then remove the center form, and sand.
Really takes quite awhile for the epoxy to fully cure.
Your doing fine !
Love the color pattern !
Jim
Jim, I will do. Thank you.
That's looking great.
A tip for the inside stems, not that it will help you now, is to fiberglass just the stems the day before you fiberglass the rest of the interior, maybe 12" back from the bow/stern. This way you're working with small pieces and lots of time. Next day when you put on the full layer just lap it over the seam by a couple inches. You'll never notice the overlap up there in stems and I find it makes the whole process easier.
I peel ply the edges of those initial stem pieces so there is a nice transition for the rest of the cloth to overlap.
Alan
A tip for the inside stems, not that it will help you now, is to fiberglass just the stems the day before you fiberglass the rest of the interior, maybe 12" back from the bow/stern. This way you're working with small pieces and lots of time. Next day when you put on the full layer just lap it over the seam by a couple inches. You'll never notice the overlap up there in stems and I find it makes the whole process easier.
I peel ply the edges of those initial stem pieces so there is a nice transition for the rest of the cloth to overlap.
Alan
That's a great idea! I'll remember that on my next build. The inside stems are a bear, but luckily it's hard to see in there. I could make float chambers in them, but I'm not to keen on having an inaccessible area. I've got to research peel ply. I don't know what that is exactly.
For this hull ?
I'd lay in an extra layer of cloth in the stems, maybe 6" wide
Cut a piece of scrap, and tuck it in , then wet it out with a foam brush,
I always have a scrap strip that I taper to like a putty knife, and tuck the wetted cloth in place.
You really want to seal the stems, so water doesn't seep in ! Rot in the stems is tough to deal with later !
Jim
I'd lay in an extra layer of cloth in the stems, maybe 6" wide
Cut a piece of scrap, and tuck it in , then wet it out with a foam brush,
I always have a scrap strip that I taper to like a putty knife, and tuck the wetted cloth in place.
You really want to seal the stems, so water doesn't seep in ! Rot in the stems is tough to deal with later !
Jim
I did lay in a bead of thickened epoxy that Gilpatricks instruction said to do. I got it, smeared, in pretty thick. Not really my finest work. Trying to smooth that out later sucked, but luckily it's not to obvious unless you are shining a light in there. If you say to lay a strip of cloth in, I can do that. Sure can't hurt the looks of my smear job. But it may be a little difficult keeping the cloth pressed tight against the bead of epoxy. It may leave some voids. This part didn't go as well as I expected.
Going thru my wood stash looking for what I should use for gunnel material. Going to have to do some scarf work. Sassafras on the outside, and cherry on the inside. I think that'll look good.
Going thru my wood stash looking for what I should use for gunnel material. Going to have to do some scarf work. Sassafras on the outside, and cherry on the inside. I think that'll look good.
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I like how you've used the differently colored wood strips. Looks great!
Yes, the thickened epoxy in the stem is what I did and doesn't look great but works.
I do the thickened epoxy in the stems too and it's another good place to use peel ply. After placing the thickened epoxy cover it with a strip of peel ply. This lets you smooth it out and manipulate high/low spots without smearing it or covering your hands with epoxy. After it's cured overnight tear off the peel ply you have a nice smooth surface.
Alan
Alan
Thanks RickR, I pondered hard on strip color. Looked at alot of wood strip canoe pictures. I needed to keep the red cedar from laying against the cherry and the cherry separated from the walnut. I was afraid the color would clash. I used the sassafras in-between the different woods.
Nice to know others have done the same with the epoxy. I will definitely use peel ply the next time. I sure skinned my knuckles up getting in there trying to clean some of that up. Thanks for the advice.
Nice to know others have done the same with the epoxy. I will definitely use peel ply the next time. I sure skinned my knuckles up getting in there trying to clean some of that up. Thanks for the advice.
Ha yes I seen that on another post, and it did pretty good. After I rubbed a little skin off my knuckles, I decided to put on a glove. Thank Jim.
Yep it's me again, the slow one. I am looking for advice before I do something stupid, which I usually do anyhow. I scarfed some cherry, and enough
sassafras for my gunnels. I like the looks of scupped inner gunnels. I know I'll have to get the spaces correct for seat and thwart placement. So here's my question, how thin should I go on the long gunnel strip, 1/2 inch? And use 1/2 inch thick spacer blocks? That will produce a 1 inch inside gunnel. I was thinking 6 inch block and 6 inch spaces. The wood will be sassafras which is 3/4 square right now. Planing it thinner is not an issue.
sassafras for my gunnels. I like the looks of scupped inner gunnels. I know I'll have to get the spaces correct for seat and thwart placement. So here's my question, how thin should I go on the long gunnel strip, 1/2 inch? And use 1/2 inch thick spacer blocks? That will produce a 1 inch inside gunnel. I was thinking 6 inch block and 6 inch spaces. The wood will be sassafras which is 3/4 square right now. Planing it thinner is not an issue.
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It is your canoe !
On my solos, and at a minimum, I cut the inwhale 3/8" thick x 3/4" high, plus 3/8" x 3/4"spacers. That equals 3/4"in width and thickness , I cap my hull, (1/4") with the outwhale, and add another 3/8" thickness, making it 5/8" thick.
This gives me a total a total of 1 3/8". I also glue the gunnels to the hull. This adds to the strength. If you don't ? I'd add to the thickness, a minimum of 1/4", if using screws.
I like 3/8" spacers, as it allows plenty of room for a bungee cord, and gives me more meat to hang my seats from.
On my solos, and at a minimum, I cut the inwhale 3/8" thick x 3/4" high, plus 3/8" x 3/4"spacers. That equals 3/4"in width and thickness , I cap my hull, (1/4") with the outwhale, and add another 3/8" thickness, making it 5/8" thick.
This gives me a total a total of 1 3/8". I also glue the gunnels to the hull. This adds to the strength. If you don't ? I'd add to the thickness, a minimum of 1/4", if using screws.
I like 3/8" spacers, as it allows plenty of room for a bungee cord, and gives me more meat to hang my seats from.
