• Happy 1st Sighting of Pacific Ocean by Lewis & Clark (1805)! 🧭

“Need” a new solo!

FYI, I ordered this boat with the glued-in aluminum foot brace. I like the burly tension knobs. A simple system. I may decide I want the bar beneath the L brackets, we’ll see.

25D8191A-16C8-4933-A715-9BF629367B28.jpeg

So between that and the wood trim upgrade, and according to that universally poor measuring device many of us have at hand (bathroom scale accurate to the nearest 1/2 pound and subject to whim and chance), this boat weighs in at 45.5-lbs. I have not yet weighed the Polaris but I think it’s lighter.
 
Last edited:
"Second, the wood needs a steel-wooling or sanding, especially around the paddling station where I’m likely to rub my hand on the gunwale incidentally while paddling. And I think I’ll strip the lettering off of midships."

Same experience here with my Trillium. The trim is lovely, but definitely will benefit from a bit of sanding. The decals, to my eye, really don't do the boat justice, the lettering is too bold and the "font" has no class. I took all the decals off of mine, and glad I did. It's quite pleasing to the eye now ( gets lots of compliments; has been a great boon for my social life!).
Well you both may have given me the courage to remove the decals on my Trillium as well. White lettering on light colored layups like IXP and Starlight is unappealing to the eye. I reached out to Northstar a few months ago to inquire about black lettering and was told that white was all they have. Then I see a press release with a blacklight boat sporting gold lettering!
 
Last edited:
Well you both may have given me the courage to remove the decals on my Trillium as well. White lettering on light colored layups like IXP and Starlight is unappealing to the eye. I reached out to Northstar a few months ago to inquire about black lettering and was told that white was all they have. Then I see a press release with a blacklight boat sporting gold lettering!
That may be the “Stealth” package - all CF including gunwales, seats and thwarts.
 
I reached out to Northstar a few months ago to inquire about black lettering
Any sign shop in your area should be able to make custom vinyl letters in any color, size or style you like. Even if they can't, they probably know who can. Might check with a marina too if you have one nearby... the boat registration numbers are often done that way.
 
Any sign shop in your area should be able to make custom vinyl letters in any color, size or style you like. Even if they can't, they probably know who can. Might check with a marina too if you have one nearby... the boat registration numbers are often done that way.
I've used Boatlettering.com in the past for lettering with great success but trying to duplicate the Northstar logo would have been problematic. I always liked the old Northstar logo and name when they were both on the bow. Thought for sure the factory would have had a few in the back room.
 
I've used Boatlettering.com in the past for lettering with great success but trying to duplicate the Northstar logo would have been problematic. I always liked the old Northstar logo and name when they were both on the bow. Thought for sure the factory would have had a few in the back room.
I think you can order the old style bow logo from them via the web. I ordered a big star logo for my truck.
 
Some very light outfitting… I used bungee to make a secure spot for my painters. I whipped the line ends with hot pink because that’s what I had on hand. It works, and I like the highly visible ends. They also seem unlikely to be coveted and grow legs… but I’m probably lying to myself.

As someone who does not like to drill holes in perfectly good boats, it tickled me that Northstar provided spots ready to go for this purpose!

26208B81-C6C5-456F-B1BE-3BE39CADFA47.jpeg398C33D0-3A74-4E33-96BC-465A60C54C22.jpeg
32D09BA1-38B2-4EA2-827A-0A95705ECFF7.jpeg

In the second pic I noticed it looked like the top of my float tank was sawed off. And so it was, but I can feel foam up in there so presumably the tank is full of foam. I wonder why they don’t just cap/seal it? Perhaps because of the carry loop holes?
 
It looks like I’m working on a fleet. The 5-boat collection? I have 4 currently- an 18’ Wenonah Sundowner, a Prism, an Encounter, and my new Polaris. I do intend to sell the Encounter. If I need that much weight capacity I will likely take the Polaris and a young un. So I suppose I’m not ready for a fifth boat…

The Prism is great on open water. If I want to make time, it’s sit and switch. I can also quite comfortably control the boat from one side at a more leisurely pace. It works adequately in a downstream paddle. But it’s long and tracks too hard for a lot of the places I want to play. A great tool for the right set of circumstances.

The Encounter hauls 2 kids with me effortlessly. I think it is more stable that the Prism.

The Sundowner lives down the street at my in-laws’ on the lake. It’s a heavy beast, OK if I have another adult with me, but it’s too much with just me and the kids. It is stable and can carry quite a load.

The Polaris is a joy! But long, wide, and sits high in the water for the twisty rivers as a solo boat. It is affected by the wind more that the Wenonahs, but I expect that is partly due to the rocker.

So this has me looking at some smaller solos. I want something for daytrips, or single overnighters. I don’t have much fast water here in North Florida, or at least when it is it’s flat. I love the few videos I’ve seen of the Northstar Phoenix, but that boat has a high shear and is meant to ride over waves. The NW Solo is a choice, but I also think the smaller Trillium might be really nice. I’m not opposed to a Bell Merlin II. I am all in with the idea of composite boats. My Polaris is Blacklight (carbon over Kevlar) and the two solos are UL Kevlar. I am curious and interested in IXP for a boat that I think will wind up being my beater pickup.

The market for canoes here is poor. Kayaks rule, and not without merit. Nearest Northstar dealers are in Knoxville and SE Georgia. Try before you buy, yes if I can.

I’m 6’3” and around 220-lbs. I’m not yet fully comfortable with kneeling, though I intend to give it the ol college try. The Polaris is set up with a high canted center seat for this reason.

All of Bear’s videos about the Northstar solos point me toward the Phoenix/NW Solo size, rather than the smaller Firebird/Trillium. But what do y’all think, for primarily daytripping and short overnights? I value the maneuverability over the cargo capacity. But I need to be comfortable in the boat.
To add a few more cents.
I have a North Wind solo, but I haven't had a chance to do a river trip with it, but I've taken it day paddling on lakes.
My impression of it, unloaded, is that it turns fairly easily. Almost too easily for sit 'n switch. I was having to switch sides every couple strokes. Might be a lot better loaded. Definitely turns easier than my Encounter.
Around Colorado way, I'm pushing the Phoenix, only because it's better suited for running class II rapids while still being fairly efficient on flat water.
 
Some very light outfitting… I used bungee to make a secure spot for my painters. I whipped the line ends with hot pink because that’s what I had on hand. It works, and I like the highly visible ends. They also seem unlikely to be coveted and grow legs… but I’m probably lying to myself.

As someone who does not like to drill holes in perfectly good boats, it tickled me that Northstar provided spots ready to go for this purpose!

View attachment 133649View attachment 133650
View attachment 133651

In the second pic I noticed it looked like the top of my float tank was sawed off. And so it was, but I can feel foam up in there so presumably the tank is full of foam. I wonder why they don’t just cap/seal it? Perhaps because of the carry loop holes?
Now that I see how pretty the wood option is on Northstars I'm almost wishing I'd paid the extra money for it.
I couldn't believe how long it took to drill the holes for the bow and stern loops. Brand new bit too.
I think you need a few more fishing rods.
 
Not sure sue I like the foam in the end tank being open to water entrance. Certainly don’t want to rain on your parade with your new boat but I think I would call Northstar and ask about that. Wouldn’t want water getting trapped in there or absorbed by the foam. I would think even closed cell foam should be sealed off from water. Just my 2¢….
 
Not sure sue I like the foam in the end tank being open to water entrance. Certainly don’t want to rain on your parade with your new boat but I think I would call Northstar and ask about that. Wouldn’t want water getting trapped in there or absorbed by the foam. I would think even closed cell foam should be sealed off from water. Just my 2¢….
My Trillium is the same way, pretty sure closed cell foam does not absorb water. From Northstar's site:

Northstar arrived at our current flotation after research and development. We designed our end tanks to reduce weight, maximize space for paddlers and gear, and safely float a capsized canoe. First, we create a dam using aramid and foam. Then we fill the area behind the dam with a two part, marine grade pour foam. The foam fills all voids, so we don’t need to seal the top of the dam. Our end tanks create plenty of buoyancy for inland, flat water paddling.

Personally, I like Wenonah's tanks better though.
 
Now that I see how pretty the wood option is on Northstars I'm almost wishing I'd paid the extra money for it.
I couldn't believe how long it took to drill the holes for the bow and stern loops. Brand new bit too.
I think you need a few more fishing rods.

Each kid (4) has their own rod; I have 6. I’m about to pick up another ML power, light action. Most of my rods are MH and up from fishing saltwater growing up and the gulf in more recent years. They’re a bit much for the local freshwater thing.
 
My Trillium is the same way, pretty sure closed cell foam does not absorb water. From Northstar's site:

Northstar arrived at our current flotation after research and development. We designed our end tanks to reduce weight, maximize space for paddlers and gear, and safely float a capsized canoe. First, we create a dam using aramid and foam. Then we fill the area behind the dam with a two part, marine grade pour foam. The foam fills all voids, so we don’t need to seal the top of the dam. Our end tanks create plenty of buoyancy for inland, flat water paddling.

I wouldn’t worry about the flotation tanks, Northstar knows how to design and build a beautiful canoe.
 
Outfitting continues…

Drilled both front and rear thwarts for some bungee keeper action:

B05551DD-4D20-4B7C-95E2-1DF9B29DF68E.jpegE4DEF8F1-5FA8-413A-9127-91981ED91F23.jpegC38C5FB6-7E24-4084-BF34-47624BC2A252.jpeg
88418FCF-ACFD-4EF0-BF95-0A318B1956D7.jpeg


… and now trying to decide how to install a portage strap. Center of balance found, but I think I want the strap installed a wee bit forward so the balance is stern-heavy so I can hold the gunwales and rest my arms.

6160AB51-EA3A-4CB2-A721-16187BA3B874.jpeg
 
Oh look… I can just run the strap around the whole boat and set it on my shoulders like that! Isn’t that interesting…

🤔

9629037F-A459-4904-9901-61FF3449C61F.jpeg
 
I like the idea of going around the whole boat, that should work. I might try that on my Hornbeck if there is enough headroom. The shoulder carry is fine for a short distance but not for a long portage.
Jim
 
Great looking canoe, Woodpuppy.

You don't need a wood or strap yoke to carry a 45 lb. canoe on short trips to and from the vehicle. Just carry it on your shoulder, or with the edge of the solo seat on your shoulders/neck, or overhead with two straight arms.

If I really wanted to use a strap, I'd probably just wrap it around the hull rather than installing it permanently with more screws and holes. There are lightweight fabric yokes with V shapes for your neck that wrap around the hull. They are popular with the pack canoe crowd. I believe Placid and Swift still sell them.

Personally, if I use a painter bundled up on the decks with bungees attached to a grab loop, I'd prefer to orient the bundle longitudinally rather than transversely, with the loose end sticking out the front. If your canoe is upside down in the water, it's easier to pull out the painter from the front of the bundle rather than trying to remember, when perhaps in waves or otherwise frantic, which side of the bundle I have to pull. It's also a little easier to release the rope from the nose, in my opinion, when just using the painter to pull or attach the canoe to shore or vehicle. It's easy to experiment with orientation with those scuppered decks.
 
Back
Top