Cherry also makes really nice gunnels
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First time builder Ashes Solo Trip
- Thread starter Bentpushrod
- Start date
Yes, I agree. I plan on the poplar, but I did buy enough cherry, if I change my mind I can use it for gunnels.
I really like poplar, and have plans to use it for my next big freighter build for strips, but I would be reluctant to use it for gunwales, as it doesn't do well with water. Cherry makes super nice, colourful gunwales, although it will be less flexy and more brittle than the poplar.
I’ve generally applied my RAKA seal coat on one day, then draped the cloth and wet out the next day.
I’ve done some builds where that sequence was three days, that is, seal coat, drape, wet out, one step each day.
My nephew’s hull was built that way, it’s been 9 years and it still shows no signs of interlayer delaminating, despite harsh use.
I’ve done some builds where that sequence was three days, that is, seal coat, drape, wet out, one step each day.
My nephew’s hull was built that way, it’s been 9 years and it still shows no signs of interlayer delaminating, despite harsh use.
Exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you!
For glassing routine, Get everything on as soon as possible. You get the strongest, Clearest bond.
I learned this from a Tech at System Three.
Seal coats are fine. Just make sure there are no specs of dust on the hull, as these will raise the cloth enough to give you thin spots, when you sand the hull.
If you choose to skip the seal coat ? Be sure any cracks, or anything as small as a staple hole, is filled. They will weep epoxy away from the cloth. not good.
Me ? I take the time to fill, and skip the seal coat.
Once you are ready to apply epoxy to the cloth ? Wet it out, and wait for it to cure, just past tacky stage. This can vary, 4 hrs is usually close.
Now you can start with fill coats.
Apply Fill coats while the previous coat is still Tacky, an hour is usually long enough. The Tackiness, will prevent a lot of runs. You will thank me on this one.
Yes. I usually apply my last fill coat in the wee morning hours.
You are done. You can scrape within about 12 hrs. Don't sand for at least a week.
In a nut shell, that is my take on glassing the outside of the hull.
Jim
I learned this from a Tech at System Three.
Seal coats are fine. Just make sure there are no specs of dust on the hull, as these will raise the cloth enough to give you thin spots, when you sand the hull.
If you choose to skip the seal coat ? Be sure any cracks, or anything as small as a staple hole, is filled. They will weep epoxy away from the cloth. not good.
Me ? I take the time to fill, and skip the seal coat.
Once you are ready to apply epoxy to the cloth ? Wet it out, and wait for it to cure, just past tacky stage. This can vary, 4 hrs is usually close.
Now you can start with fill coats.
Apply Fill coats while the previous coat is still Tacky, an hour is usually long enough. The Tackiness, will prevent a lot of runs. You will thank me on this one.
Yes. I usually apply my last fill coat in the wee morning hours.
You are done. You can scrape within about 12 hrs. Don't sand for at least a week.
In a nut shell, that is my take on glassing the outside of the hull.
Jim
There probably isn't a lot of difference in this application but it's always good to remember that talking about 'poplar' can get confusing. I'm guessing that where you are in Canada 'poplar' refers to the tree of the same name that grows there locally. But in nearly the entire US the term 'poplar' refers to the Tulip Poplar tree, which is completely unrelated to trees that are actually in the poplar family.
Tulip Poplars grow fast and straight and the wood is easy to work with so it's available as a low priced hardwood (although in reality it's not very hard) in nearly every lumber yard in the US.
Alan
Great info Jim! Very helpful, this Is what I love about this forum!For glassing routine, Get everything on as soon as possible. You get the strongest, Clearest bond.
I learned this from a Tech at System Three.
Seal coats are fine. Just make sure there are no specs of dust on the hull, as these will raise the cloth enough to give you thin spots, when you sand the hull.
If you choose to skip the seal coat ? Be sure any cracks, or anything as small as a staple hole, is filled. They will weep epoxy away from the cloth. not good.
Me ? I take the time to fill, and skip the seal coat.
Once you are ready to apply epoxy to the cloth ? Wet it out, and wait for it to cure, just past tacky stage. This can vary, 4 hrs is usually close.
Now you can start with fill coats.
Apply Fill coats while the previous coat is still Tacky, an hour is usually long enough. The Tackiness, will prevent a lot of runs. You will thank me on this one.
Yes. I usually apply my last fill coat in the wee morning hours.
You are done. You can scrape within about 12 hrs. Don't sand for at least a week.
In a nut shell, that is my take on glassing the outside of the hull.
Jim
I’m actually in the US. Although pretty dang close to Canada, 7 miles from the border here. The poplar I purchased is tulip poplar.
Seal coat is on.
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Awesome! That really makes the wood sparkle. The word "Pop" I think has gotten over used. I love the darker spots where knots were.
That looks egg salad!!
Glassing tomorrow?
Do you have help?
Be sure to knock down any dust burrs before you drape your cloth.
And have you bias cut strips at the ready for the stems…
Glassing tomorrow?
Do you have help?
Be sure to knock down any dust burrs before you drape your cloth.
And have you bias cut strips at the ready for the stems…
Thanks! Glassing today, no helper. I need to cut my bias strips for the stems, along with a layer for the football. Think I’ll lay those on for the next epoxy coat.
Glassing today??
Looks to me like “glassed” today.
From where I sit, it looks like a great job!
Looks to me like “glassed” today.
From where I sit, it looks like a great job!
Did the wet out coat, and one fill coat today. Was going to do an additional fill coat, but I have some scraping to do first. I had trouble with the bias strips on the stems, that need attention. I also laid a piece of glass over the football, and that needs some scraping as well.
The epoxy itself went on pretty well, no bubbles, but my inexperience with fiberglass cloth shows. It’s a learning experience, and I can fix it, but I learned that I do not like this stage of the build, and am not excited about glassing the interior.
The epoxy itself went on pretty well, no bubbles, but my inexperience with fiberglass cloth shows. It’s a learning experience, and I can fix it, but I learned that I do not like this stage of the build, and am not excited about glassing the interior.
Did you put your football patch on top of the full sheet of fiberglass or under it? I put mine on top of the main sheet of glass. I didn't know what to do when I started pulling the treads out of the patch. The more I tried to work the resin out, the more threads came with it. I was awful, I thought for sure it was a screwed up job. Someone on here told me to shave the threads down with the scraper I was using and finish my fill coat. It work out really good, but yes I about lost it.
I think I did my bias strips after the epoxy cured. I was scared to try that when working with the rest of the glassing. I can see a whitish look in a few spots, but it's really to see.
Your doing good. It'll smooth out nicely and look great.
I think I did my bias strips after the epoxy cured. I was scared to try that when working with the rest of the glassing. I can see a whitish look in a few spots, but it's really to see.
Your doing good. It'll smooth out nicely and look great.
Yes, I put the football on top of the main layer of glass. I’m not too concerned with getting that right. More so on the extra glass I put on the stems.
Someone on here explained how to cut the fiberglass so it would lay better and be easier to work. Maybe they'll chime in and help.
There's just to many curves on the ends and it really takes practice and experience to get it perfect.
Luckily the polyurethane hid a lot of my flaws. I still see uneven resin enen now, but a person has to be right on it to see it, and know what they're looking for.
Roy
There's just to many curves on the ends and it really takes practice and experience to get it perfect.
Luckily the polyurethane hid a lot of my flaws. I still see uneven resin enen now, but a person has to be right on it to see it, and know what they're looking for.
Roy
If a 3rd is in the cards for me, I'd buy some inexpensive pinking shears to try to mitigate that tangly mess. I had a real hard time with this on the inner stems.
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