• Happy Winter Solstice! 🌇🌃

First time builder Ashes Solo Trip

Well, stripping is done. Probably bad luck, but I didn’t celebrate the whiskey strip with a shot the night I fitted it. Today I added strips from the shear line to the stems and trimmed them, did the whiskey shot after that. The boat is probably cursed now, we shall see. Now sanding, getting really close to the scary for me glass stage.IMG_4366.jpegIMG_4370.jpegIMG_4365.jpegIMG_4361.jpeg
 
Anticipating That “scary” lamination step is the reason why many would be builders never take the first step.

Glassing is not all that difficult, especially with modern epoxy resins…plenty of time to work with and great adhesion.
If you’re really getting the heebies about this, make up a test panel or two and practice on them.
It will give you confidence and experience and dispel the mystique of laminating.
It’s not a big deal.
Many of the build threads here, and dozens of YouTube videos can guide you. Just be accurate and thorough with your resin/hardened mixing and enlist some help.
An extra pair of clean hands also helps.
You got this!
 
Hull looks great !
When it comes to glassing ? Have some help on hand. Someone with experience, the best, but someone to mix epoxy accurately, a big aid !
Have everything lined up ready to go, before mixing that first cup ! I do 9 oz batch.

Be sure you have all the holes, cracks and gaps filled, before glassing ! Wood glue and sawdust make a great putty, for such things.
Staples holes are big enough to wick epoxy away from the cloth. Take the time to fill them.

The best of luck !
Remember heat is your friend when glassing in the Winter. Temps above 70 F are encouraged !
 
Enjoying your build, I am still a month or so away from starting my next one. Most of my research, for changes I want to make. is done and since you are at the sanding/epoxy stage, I will share a couple of interesting papers, These made enough sense. to me, that I intend to adopt on the new build.

The first is sanding regime https://laughingloon.com/sanding.html

The second is with epoxy choice and application https://laughingloon.com/epoxy.html

Both of these articles have ideas that are not generally found in most building posts and some of the epoxy suggestions I have even argued against in other threads ... for example, I think he makes a good case for precoating/sealing the hull (that was a mind changer for me). Also, his suggestion for System 3 Silvertip makes a lot of sense and having the 72 hour recoat window really eases the scheduling windows.

One last suggestion on glassing, get a helper if at all possible ... it is doable solo, but a helper makes it so much less stressful.

Brian
 
Looks great! I've used silver tip, good stuff, maybe a bit thin for fill coats. A tech guy at system three told me all of their epoxies have a 72 hour window, something that I have made ample use of, lol.

Edited one more time....just noticed he is wetting out with system 3 general purpose on the exterior. Seems backward to me. General purpose is actually fairly thick, and great for fill coats, not so great for wet out coats.
 
Looks great! I've used silver tip, good stuff, maybe a bit thin for fill coats. A tech guy at system three told me all of their epoxies have a 72 hour window, something that I have made ample use of, lol.

Edited one more time....just noticed he is wetting out with system 3 general purpose on the exterior. Seems backward to me. General purpose is actually fairly thick, and great for fill coats, not so great for wet out coats.
Thanks Mem, I missed that and concur, seems backwards ... I had in my head to use the SilverTip for wetout.

Now ... maybe I will order a gallon of SilverTip for the wetouts and a gallon of General Purpose for the fill coats ....
 
Thanks for all the great feedback, and advice. It is greatly appreciated. Those links from Laughing Loon are very good. I hadn’t planned on doing a seal coat first, but now am thinking I will. I won’t be using system 3 as I already have my epoxy. I’m going to use Raka 127 with the 350 hardener.
 
Looks great! I've used silver tip, good stuff, maybe a bit thin for fill coats. A tech guy at system three told me all of their epoxies have a 72 hour window, something that I have made ample use of, lol.

Edited one more time....just noticed he is wetting out with system 3 general purpose on the exterior. Seems backward to me. General purpose is actually fairly thick, and great for fill coats, not so great for wet out coats.
Yes, System 3s Clear Coat, would be a great seal coat or wet out coat.
 
The common theme for first time builders is to dread the glassing stage and then realize it's not really difficult at all. I'm sure it will be the same for you.

Looking great!

Alan
 
Hi Bentrod!

Congratulations to what looks like a very nice build! In preparing for the laminating I would recommend to read through this: Having control over shop temperature And epoxy temperature is key!
I think you might find some helpful info in the thread on my build as well such as Gunwale dimensions and profile, Seat placement and styles, wood selection and the strippers horny yoke. I ask a lot of questions there that are answered by a bevy of seasoned builders. You come to the right place and are in good hands on canoetripping.com!

 
Thanks for all the great feedback, and advice. It is greatly appreciated. Those links from Laughing Loon are very good. I hadn’t planned on doing a seal coat first, but now am thinking I will. I won’t be using system 3 as I already have my epoxy. I’m going to use Raka 127 with the 350 hardener.
Good choice.
 
Thanks for all the great feedback, and advice. It is greatly appreciated. Those links from Laughing Loon are very good. I hadn’t planned on doing a seal coat first, but now am thinking I will. I won’t be using system 3 as I already have my epoxy. I’m going to use Raka 127 with the 350 hardener.

I did do a detailed build thread on my last boat, you may find some ideas there (if you have interest), it can be found here



Brian
 
I did do a detailed build thread on my last boat, you may find some ideas there (if you have interest), it can be found here



Brian
Yes, I’ve read and re-read your build thread many times. Great information, and one stunningly beautiful canoe you built!
 
??? I think I'm too young to know what this means. Is it some kinky Viking thing?
It's nothing kinky or viking related at all. I just freehanded the shaped of my yoke and it turned out with somewhat sharp horns sticking out over the shoulders. This looks cool but it's not helpful or practical, in fact I think they are a little bit dangerous. I also used quick clamps to attach/detach the yoke. Someone, I think it was Memaquay, called it a horny yoke and it just sounded funny. The quick clamps works well though and I would use them again for a detachable yoke.
 
So, I’m thinking of doing a seal coat, using Raka 127 with their 350 hardener. Temperature is not of concern, I’m building in a heated garage, so I can crank it up to 85 if needed. My question for those that have worked with Raka, how long of a window will I have from seal coat to glass with fill coats without sanding.
 
Can’t find any decent ash around here, going to go with poplar for gunwales, yes a bit soft, but harder than cedar, and light. Should be a nice contrast to the WRC. Picked up some cherry for seats and thwart.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4384.jpeg
    IMG_4384.jpeg
    142.9 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4385.jpeg
    IMG_4385.jpeg
    154.7 KB · Views: 7
Back
Top