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Nicely done, with the riving knife and all!! Keep it coming!!
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Happy Mathematics Day! ❌📐♾️
First time boat build ever, Freedom 17
- Thread starter offshore
- Start date
Yes. It won't be as nice as the bead and cove you'd get with 1/4" strips but no problem. I've done it that way a few times and even down to 5/32".
Alan
Yes the 1/4" bead and cove bits work fine. The important thing is to center your strip with the bits.
That is the same as you would need to do with 1/4' strips.
I always run a few TEST strips, using scrap strips, and check them over close, before running the good stuff through.
This is the most critical time, as accuracy here saves a lot of headache later !
Be sure your strips are uniform in thickness. And I've found I got the best results with the Skilsaw method !
I will give you a few pointers later on bead and coving ! Beings you don't have a planer, Plank thickness always varies ! So once you have your strips cut, set your router so your strips run BETWEEN the bit and the fence ! I learned this from a professional cedar strip canoe builder in Wisconsin, and it has surved me well !
You have a good start, and are on the right track !
Jim
Jim, I have bead and coved like that too, but for first timers, keep in mind that this is not up to Elmer The Safety Elephant's code of standards, as the bit is spinning around completely uncovered, and can create a fair amount of ruckus on unsuspecting fingers and whatnot.
Not that I'm a safety guru, quite the opposite, but still have most of all my fingers.
One more comment on radius vs strip thickness.
I mentioned that for many years I was an opponent of cove and bead strips, based upon my experience helping a boat buddy.
He used 1/4 strips (I know, it was a barge!) and 1/8 radius bits. I helped him strip his hull, his first ever strip built. All of his strips had these incredibly delicate edges, which would break off upon just looking at them. So this boat buddy ended up sanding forever, to eliminate the gaps caused by the frayed edge cove cuts. I looked at the effort to do the cove and bead, and the extra effort to sand the broken edge strip, and decided that I would just stick with my butt edged strips.
Flash forward about 20 years, and I used 1/4 radius cutters on 5/32 strips and loved it!! No feather edges, extremely fair hull, little sanding.
But, as Jim suggests, be sure to do a few test strips before running your whole batch through. You really want to be able to use any strip, in any orientation, and still have the faces flush.
Oh, and you're making great progress, thanks for sharing.
I mentioned that for many years I was an opponent of cove and bead strips, based upon my experience helping a boat buddy.
He used 1/4 strips (I know, it was a barge!) and 1/8 radius bits. I helped him strip his hull, his first ever strip built. All of his strips had these incredibly delicate edges, which would break off upon just looking at them. So this boat buddy ended up sanding forever, to eliminate the gaps caused by the frayed edge cove cuts. I looked at the effort to do the cove and bead, and the extra effort to sand the broken edge strip, and decided that I would just stick with my butt edged strips.
Flash forward about 20 years, and I used 1/4 radius cutters on 5/32 strips and loved it!! No feather edges, extremely fair hull, little sanding.
But, as Jim suggests, be sure to do a few test strips before running your whole batch through. You really want to be able to use any strip, in any orientation, and still have the faces flush.
Oh, and you're making great progress, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Memaquay for bringing that to light !
I too have all my fingers.
I realize that some view this as a dangerous situation. And I will state "Build at Your Own Risk ! "
I have beaded and coved strips for myself as well as others to the tune of over 40 canoes. Without incident.
1/4" western red cedar is soft enough, for a light duty router to easily bead and cove in this fashion.
If one is concerned about safely performing this task, I recommend installing appropriate guards, and wearing a suit of armor !
As I have pictured, Three feather boards are in place. Two, one before, and one after, that hold the strip against the fence. One above to hold the strip, flat against the table.
Jim
I too have all my fingers.
I realize that some view this as a dangerous situation. And I will state "Build at Your Own Risk ! "
I have beaded and coved strips for myself as well as others to the tune of over 40 canoes. Without incident.
1/4" western red cedar is soft enough, for a light duty router to easily bead and cove in this fashion.
If one is concerned about safely performing this task, I recommend installing appropriate guards, and wearing a suit of armor !
As I have pictured, Three feather boards are in place. Two, one before, and one after, that hold the strip against the fence. One above to hold the strip, flat against the table.
Jim
but, run the bead first so you aren't running the cove down the fence and destroying it.
Yes !
No Title
Hello to all, Thank you all for your great input as far as cutting the strips, I think I have decided to go with 1/4” strip. I think this part of getting every thing set up for the build is got me the most intimidated, I think once I get the strips out of the way I will feel a lot better about the hole build.
Jim Dodd thank you for the input on how you bead and cove your strip and the picture, you also said. [FONT="]Beings you don't have a planer, Plank thickness always varies ! [/FONT]Well I do have a planer, however I was thinking of not using it because my cedar is 3/4” now and I thought running the though the planer would make the boards to thin, but then I guess all I would have to do is make more strips !
My planer has got 12’ stainless steel in feed and out feed table, would I need to make long in feed and out feed tables? As a matter of fact I think I am going to post some picture of some of the tools I have to work with.
Update to what I have got done the last few days, I got the strong back done, man that sucker is heavy, I built it out of 3/4” particle board, the sheet length was 97” so the total length came out to 16 ft. 2” I don’t think the extra inch on each end should make that much difference. I had to bring it all inside the RV to get the glue to dry, I used deck screws every 8”, it is in three peace five with the legs.
I also started laminating some hickory to gather to make two deck plates.
Hello to all, Thank you all for your great input as far as cutting the strips, I think I have decided to go with 1/4” strip. I think this part of getting every thing set up for the build is got me the most intimidated, I think once I get the strips out of the way I will feel a lot better about the hole build.
Jim Dodd thank you for the input on how you bead and cove your strip and the picture, you also said. [FONT="]Beings you don't have a planer, Plank thickness always varies ! [/FONT]Well I do have a planer, however I was thinking of not using it because my cedar is 3/4” now and I thought running the though the planer would make the boards to thin, but then I guess all I would have to do is make more strips !
My planer has got 12’ stainless steel in feed and out feed table, would I need to make long in feed and out feed tables? As a matter of fact I think I am going to post some picture of some of the tools I have to work with.
Update to what I have got done the last few days, I got the strong back done, man that sucker is heavy, I built it out of 3/4” particle board, the sheet length was 97” so the total length came out to 16 ft. 2” I don’t think the extra inch on each end should make that much difference. I had to bring it all inside the RV to get the glue to dry, I used deck screws every 8”, it is in three peace five with the legs.
I also started laminating some hickory to gather to make two deck plates.
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Oh and please forgive the mess! I am not that great of a house cleaner !!!
You aren't running the 3/4" thickness through the planer, it is for after you cut the strips. I went a bit over 1/4" and planed them down to just under 1/4". I planed the saw marks out of both sides of the strips to have even thickness along the entire length, which should make beading and coving easier and sanding after the hull is finished.
Karin
Karin
Skip the planer ! Set your saw fence, so your strips come out 1/4" thick, and you are good to go. If your fence is parallel to the blade, and take a little time to verify, I use a caliper.
There is no need to plane the strips ! What little marks the skilsaw blade leaves, is easily removed when sanding the hull.
I like Freud's Avanti, or Diablo blades. A 24 tooth blade works the best.
Believe me planning you strips is unnecessary, as you will be amazed at how accurate the skilsaw really is.
Jim
There is no need to plane the strips ! What little marks the skilsaw blade leaves, is easily removed when sanding the hull.
I like Freud's Avanti, or Diablo blades. A 24 tooth blade works the best.
Believe me planning you strips is unnecessary, as you will be amazed at how accurate the skilsaw really is.
Jim
Oh ok Karin, wow that makes more sense ! I hope I will not have to make long in feed and out feed table to do that, I should be able to run more then one strip though at a time I hope,
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I always say when I drive by an open garage, that's neat," he ain't a canoe builder !" Now having said that ,some one will call me out ! Sorry !
I think you could eat off the floor of Mr. McCrae's shop.
It isn't necessary to plane the strips, I didn't with the first boat I built, but I didn't have the planer then. I just prefer it. To each their own.
It isn't necessary to plane the strips, I didn't with the first boat I built, but I didn't have the planer then. I just prefer it. To each their own.
I have the baby brother to your Dewalt planer and I use the stock in/outfeed tables that came with it. Not a problem. Just support the piece by hand on the infeed side and then switch to supporting the outfeed side after the halfway point. Be sure to get the tables adjusted correctly so it doesn't snipe the ends.
I almost always run my boards through the planer before ripping the strips but most of my cedar comes nearly 7/8" thick and is only planed on one side. I've also gotten cedar boards that came beautifully planed on both sides at just under 3/4". Those were consistent in thickness so I didn't bother running them through the planer. I've never seen a need to plane the strips after coming off the table saw. You can always test some strips at random with a caliper to see how much variation there is.
Like the others have said to each their own. There are as many ways of building a stripper as there are builders. Everyone gets there a little differently but we still (almost) always end up with a great final project.
Sounds like you're off to a good start.
Alan
I am thinking of cutting my cedar board length down to 18 foot long, the freedom 17 is 17 foot long, so do you all think this will give me long enough strips?
Trying to find a bead and cove bit ! here is a link to what I have found, wondering if one of them will work?
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-bead-cove-bits-for-canoe-building
Trying to find a bead and cove bit ! here is a link to what I have found, wondering if one of them will work?
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-bead-cove-bits-for-canoe-building
I got mine at Lee Valley Tools. Separate bits for each function.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=30155&cat=1,46168,69435,46174
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=30155&cat=1,46168,69435,46174
