My Pleasure !
I started building canoes so I could have something that suited me !
Early on, I was guided through this process by others ! I'm glad to try and pass it on !
Thanks !
Jim
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Carbon / Kevlar BLACK Pearl
- Thread starter Jim Dodd
- Start date
My Pleasure !
I started building canoes so I could have something that suited me !
Early on, I was guided through this process by others ! I'm glad to try and pass it on !
Thanks !
Jim
Hey jim glad to see you’re getting it wet
i can’t see any flaws from here it looks perfect!
did you keep a tally on your material costs?
i can’t see any flaws from here it looks perfect!
did you keep a tally on your material costs?
Trick Photography ! Or Photo Shop ! Ha ! Trust Me ! They are there .
Material costs ????
Earlier I posted cloth costs were about $426. Postage was a killer beings it was rolled. I plan to have it folded from now on. Still postage is high.
Resin ? close to 2 gallons ?? $150 including shipping.
Trim ? I had the Ash, Trim can very so much, I'm not going to even guess for that.
Varnish and Watco, $20
Cups, Foam roller covers. tape, brushes, gloves, sanding discs, misc. Say $100.
So conservatively speaking $750 ?
Compared to a stripper, where Cedar costs are replaced by composites.
It's really not that bad. Considering my composite shaved close to 15# off the stripper weight.
Is it worth it ? I've made 4 composites. No regrets.
Jim
Did you put anything between the shell of the flotation chamber and the inside hull to achieve the flotation or is just the air between the space enough? Would a solid foam block be better or unnecessary?
I really like the shape of this, and being 270# and inexperienced at canoeing, I think this would be ideal and give a little more stability in a 15ft canoe. This will also cover up my inside stems so I won’t have to hand sand them flat.
I also really like the thought of the cedar strip covering so will see if steambending and glassing will hold the shape.
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Ok, one last thought. This will obviously take some time for me to make it look how I want which brings me to my next concern. If I fiberglass the inside first then start working on the flotation chambers, how long do I have to get them done, and gunnels put on to support the hull from caving in? Does that question make sense?
If you make a form with a couple 2x6's and strip the form horizontal there would be no need to steam bend. I can't remember, is your canoe symetrical? If so, a form makes even more sense. Just my opinion, I've never done it, but Jim has done a lot.
Mark
Yeah I suppose doing it horizontally and letting the bead and cove do the contour would make the most sense and yes it’s symmetrical.
thanks
thanks
The only reason I replied with this suggestion is that I built 2 Chestnut Pal's last year, my brother has one and I have the other. This winter he is supposed to make the form and template for the flotation tanks in this fashion, make his, then give them to me. One form for 4 tanks
Mark
Mark
If it's sealed air tight than I don't think anything could provide better flotation than dead air space. Foam only works if the area is filled with water. Foam (or any flotation device) does no good if not in contact with water so that it can displace it.
A sealed flotation chamber by itself displaces water, which provides flotation. Anything inside the sealed chamber is just dead weight.
Alan
Alan is spot on !
Air is the best flotation and the lightest ! Unless you could pump it full of Helium ? Ha !
As Far as glassing, go ahead and glass the inside. No need to hurry with the insert, or the chambers, as I just scuff it good, and rely on a mechanical bond with the epoxy. It has worked great so far !
The insert was made using the original forms for the stripper hull. Beings I used 1/8" thick strips, I simply edge glued them .
Three hulls so far, and if I do any more, I will do it this way !
Black Pearl at 16' weighing 36 lb. I'm happy with the weight and rigidity !
I hardly paddle any of my other canoes anymore. Evan with my short portages from my truck to the river. It's a breeze . I paddle more too !
Jim
Air is the best flotation and the lightest ! Unless you could pump it full of Helium ? Ha !
As Far as glassing, go ahead and glass the inside. No need to hurry with the insert, or the chambers, as I just scuff it good, and rely on a mechanical bond with the epoxy. It has worked great so far !
The insert was made using the original forms for the stripper hull. Beings I used 1/8" thick strips, I simply edge glued them .
Three hulls so far, and if I do any more, I will do it this way !
Black Pearl at 16' weighing 36 lb. I'm happy with the weight and rigidity !
I hardly paddle any of my other canoes anymore. Evan with my short portages from my truck to the river. It's a breeze . I paddle more too !
Jim
Great view of the seat back/ portage yoke! I'm very interested in that design for the raven
You should join me in May with that beautiful canoe as I explore the old portages from lake two to clearwater. Going to camp in the PMA on Rock island lake.
That just might work !
Friend, Larry Ricker has bought a place in Ely. I maybe able to store a canoe up there. It would be nice not to have to haul a canoe every time!
That’s one sweet canoe Jim. Beautiful job.
Bob
Bob
I'll try and post a few better pics, so you can build one.
BWCA66 and his wife made the straps they work great. After using it ? I can't talk myself into leaving it home !
Love the design, Jim, but given your many posts on the advantages of gluing rather than screwing gunnels, I would be remiss if I didn't point out that you used screws to attach the yoke/cross piece to the uprights! Why not just glue?
Thanks for the different views of the yoke.
alsg, very funny about screws
alsg, very funny about screws
This kevlar / carbon concept is quite intriguing. Not sure how I ever missed this thread but this Black Pearl build on top of the Black Pearl was a lot of fun to read through. The inlaid cedar football is quite a unique added touch. Nice work Jim!!
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