If that's Shrink Wrap, Do yo want to come and do one for Me? That looks great !
I'm getting Excited !
The Best of luck, this weekend !!!
Jim
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Happy National Eggnog Day! 🎄🥛😵
basalt Innegra tandem tripper.
- Thread starter Mp214parks
- Start date
If that's Shrink Wrap, Do yo want to come and do one for Me? That looks great !
I'm getting Excited !
The Best of luck, this weekend !!!
Jim
A 7.5 gal kit + shipping to Alaska ? Not bad !
Have you worked with this brand before ?
Jim
Made a little progress this weekend. I put down two layers of 7 oz basalt Innegra. Then attached my gunwales while it was still wet.
Next ill I’ll put 4 oz s glass over the hull including the gunwales.
Oh, and Smoth On epoxy is the only epoxy I’ve ever used since our choices here are a bit limited.
Next ill I’ll put 4 oz s glass over the hull including the gunwales.
Oh, and Smoth On epoxy is the only epoxy I’ve ever used since our choices here are a bit limited.
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The problem with foam gunwales is that they must be built perfectly formed. Wood is naturally a linear material, so it easily curves in a uniform way. Foam is not. There really is not a perfect way, so far as I can tel, to clamp foam to a form perfectly while being able to see if you’re even clamping it in a uniform curve. I had taken this problem into consideration before my layup. I took the time to turn my mold over so I could get a really good look at my gunwale line to make sure that it was perfect. I had planned to just follow it for the gunwale placement. In theory, it’s not a bad idea. But in reality, it’s inconsistent. Once all those clamp are on there, you can’t see if you’re straight or not. So you’re just relying on feeling the sheer of the mold as your guid. At this point I really don’t know how my gunwales will look. I really wanted this boat to be very clean. After covering them in glass I may be able to sand them out perfectly. We Shall see.
On the good side, they are way lighter. Each outwhale is 8.5 oz. A piece of cedar the same size is 18 oz. My outwhales will need another layer of glass. But cedar ones would as well. So if you did four of these on a boat, that would be a savings of 40 oz. or 2 1/2 pounds. Another good point about this method is that it really is easy to do. And I think it will give me a nice structure to work with after it’s off the mold.
A couple ideas for next time...
It might be possible to use a 23 gauge nail gun to nail the gunwale to the mold for the preform portion of it. This would keep it from sliding up and down. And it would allow you to see the sheer line better. After it was in place, clamps would probably be needed to hold it better. After the gunwale was formed, it would be removed and the nails pulled out. Perhaps you could do this in the layup as well, but of course you would need to be able to pull the nails from the inside of the mold prior to release of the hull.
A second option would be to build a perfectly straight jig to form the gunwale in. This gunwale would need to be constructed of something flexible enough to be curved into place when affixing it to the hull. Perhaps a Kevlar sleeve would work. I don’t know.
One comment on the basalt Innegra. It drapes really well. I have some very fine stems and I was able to wrap the fabric around them after setting out.
On the good side, they are way lighter. Each outwhale is 8.5 oz. A piece of cedar the same size is 18 oz. My outwhales will need another layer of glass. But cedar ones would as well. So if you did four of these on a boat, that would be a savings of 40 oz. or 2 1/2 pounds. Another good point about this method is that it really is easy to do. And I think it will give me a nice structure to work with after it’s off the mold.
A couple ideas for next time...
It might be possible to use a 23 gauge nail gun to nail the gunwale to the mold for the preform portion of it. This would keep it from sliding up and down. And it would allow you to see the sheer line better. After it was in place, clamps would probably be needed to hold it better. After the gunwale was formed, it would be removed and the nails pulled out. Perhaps you could do this in the layup as well, but of course you would need to be able to pull the nails from the inside of the mold prior to release of the hull.
A second option would be to build a perfectly straight jig to form the gunwale in. This gunwale would need to be constructed of something flexible enough to be curved into place when affixing it to the hull. Perhaps a Kevlar sleeve would work. I don’t know.
One comment on the basalt Innegra. It drapes really well. I have some very fine stems and I was able to wrap the fabric around them after setting out.
Nice work - that looks awesome! I noticed that your fabric is dual twill, having the basalt and Innegra going in both directions to maximize both properties.
Once you get the thwarts and yoke in, I think you will find that the gunwales will appear less wavy. I freaked out about that last year too but the support network here talked me off the ledge. The only other thing I could think of is waiting for the hull to cure, trim it, then attach the gunwale flush to ensure the fair line but then you wouldnt get the full chemical bond and you add another step. Its going to look great when finished. Love watching this build and the new techniques!
Once you get the thwarts and yoke in, I think you will find that the gunwales will appear less wavy. I freaked out about that last year too but the support network here talked me off the ledge. The only other thing I could think of is waiting for the hull to cure, trim it, then attach the gunwale flush to ensure the fair line but then you wouldnt get the full chemical bond and you add another step. Its going to look great when finished. Love watching this build and the new techniques!
I haven’t worked with Enough different fabrics to be able to compare the wetting properties of this to something else. The basalt is brown when dry and turns black when it’s saturated. So it’s easy to tell when the basalt is wetted. The Innegra changes it’s tone slightly but it is more difficult to tell when it’s wet. The basalt strands are thin and wispy like carbon but not stif. The Innegra strands are more like 50 # monofilament fishing line.
One thing if you sand it down and cut into it, the dark basalt shavings get smeared into the White Innegra fibers which are frayed. So the Innegra gets a grey color.
Lastly, it’s itchy. Very itchy.
Now ow that I can actually see my gunwales, I think they will be ok. But it’ll take some work to loose the wavy.
One thing if you sand it down and cut into it, the dark basalt shavings get smeared into the White Innegra fibers which are frayed. So the Innegra gets a grey color.
Lastly, it’s itchy. Very itchy.
Now ow that I can actually see my gunwales, I think they will be ok. But it’ll take some work to loose the wavy.
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Is the window film the only mold release? Sometimes injecting air or water in the crack can separate stuck molds. PVA will dissolve in water and that can be enough to separate sometimes. I don't have any experience with the film.
Don't split the stems- the boat looks great! Can you partly disassemble the mold enough to wiggle it out?
Don't split the stems- the boat looks great! Can you partly disassemble the mold enough to wiggle it out?
Window film is my only release. I tried filling the hull with water. I really hate to damage the mold. I’d like to use it again. The stern stem would not be too bad to split. Just add another step in an already long process. I could get some pva tomorrow and try that.
Yes ! Split ONE stem, and it should come right off ! If not split them both.
At least mine have ! (4)
The gunnels may be pulling the hull a little tight. It should come right off with the splitting.
Maybe add a couple of layers of electricians tape to the stem edge of your mold next time, to allow splitting the hull with a knife. This should prevent damage to the mold.
Good luck !
Jim
At least mine have ! (4)
The gunnels may be pulling the hull a little tight. It should come right off with the splitting.
Maybe add a couple of layers of electricians tape to the stem edge of your mold next time, to allow splitting the hull with a knife. This should prevent damage to the mold.
Good luck !
Jim
I finally got her off the mold! Now I’ve got to figure out what to do with my mold. And start mending my stems.
It weighs 30.5# at the moment. I’m hoping for 45# finish weight. I have decks, inwhales, one layer of carbon cloth, a foam floor, seats, thwarts,stem repair, and a clear coat.
It weighs 30.5# at the moment. I’m hoping for 45# finish weight. I have decks, inwhales, one layer of carbon cloth, a foam floor, seats, thwarts,stem repair, and a clear coat.
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My bold statement of the day: Mending stems is easier than fighting with a mold !
I just sanded out the inside and layed in two strips of basalt Innegra over the cut. Later I will need to lay another one on the outside and a do little cleanup work there. The decks will also tie in with the outwhales to add strength. Flotation chambers? Yes. Foam with glass on the inside and carbon on the outside.
It definetely needs more stiffness on the floor. I’m planning on a sheet of 1/2” divinicell in the floor and a 5 oz layer of carbon on the entire inside.
I just sanded out the inside and layed in two strips of basalt Innegra over the cut. Later I will need to lay another one on the outside and a do little cleanup work there. The decks will also tie in with the outwhales to add strength. Flotation chambers? Yes. Foam with glass on the inside and carbon on the outside.
It definetely needs more stiffness on the floor. I’m planning on a sheet of 1/2” divinicell in the floor and a 5 oz layer of carbon on the entire inside.
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