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My first Build

Scraping excess glue from the outside, after it skims over is good ! What do you do on the inside, which is three times harder to scrape and sand. Best advise ! Be Minimal with your glue ! Next time ;)
I strip with the cove up. No problems ! When gluing strips from the bilge on, I just tip the canoe. Again problem solved. here's some pics. I do this while sanding also !
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Simply clamp braces to the forms with C-clamps.

Jim
 
Scraping both sides of the strips isn't much of an issue till you get past the bilge. Once you start turning at the bilge, you can still reach in (and under) and do most the strips, the ends are tricky and the last few strips are pretty much not easily reached ... fortunately, those are easy to access when the boat is flipped over and having a small area to cleanup is better than a whole boat ...lol


Brian
 
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Progress photos from the last few weeks.

Couple questions: 1- I placed the glass on an angle, which leaves a couple nice sized triangles at opposing sides on each end. Should this be trimmed prior to expoxy or after? 2- Can anyone give me an idea of how much epoxy it will take to do the initial coat, and coats after? I don't think I want to mix up enough to do the whole thing at once; however, not sure i wnat to do many small batches.
 

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I would trim that cloth to be no more than an inch extra all around.
Mix your resin in 12 oz or so batches. You'll know soon enough if you can increase the batch size if the wet out is going fast, or mix smaller batches because the wet out is going slowly. You don't want your resin to be kicking while you're working with it.
And you are going to use bias cut strips for the stems, right?
 
I trim the cloth to around 2" past the shear. Save that cloth, as you will find uses for it ! It's good to laid your cloth on a Bias.

I like to mix up 9 oz batches, ONE at a time. It seems just about right for timing. If you mix too big a batch, it could kick over on you, before you get it on the hull !
I would prefill 5 cups with 6 oz of resin, for a canoe the size of yours. Then all I have to do is add hardener, when needed fon the next cup.

I use clear smooth sided 16 or 20 oz cups from Walmart. I premark them..

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Notice the different marks ? I double checked the black marks with a more accurate measuring cup. The top lines are correct.

I premark enough cups to easily do all the coats on my canoe.

We all have slightly different methods, this has worked great for me !

I would guess your wet out coat to take 5 or 6 9 oz batches. Maybe 4 cups for the next fill coat. It varys with your method of application.

If you have all ready applied a seal coat, and are waiting a week to wet out the cloth, I would sand the hull lightly with say 220 grit paper. This will do two things, one, insure a good bond, and remove any imperfections. Run your hand over the hull. It will find any imperfections, and I can almost guarantee there are some ! They will prevent your cloth from laying tight against the hull. You won't be happy later when you sand the entire hull !

What resin are you using, and how are you going to apply it to the hull?

Maybe put some plastic on the floor ?

Looks great ! I'd love to be there to help you glass !

Jim

 
Looks great!

I wish I had put something on the floor in my garage! Made a royal mess!

Also consider wearing some shoes you don't care about as you will inevitably step in some epoxy and even get some on the top of your shoes. I certainly did.
 
I would trim that cloth to be no more than an inch extra all around.
Mix your resin in 12 oz or so batches. You'll know soon enough if you can increase the batch size if the wet out is going fast, or mix smaller batches because the wet out is going slowly. You don't want your resin to be kicking while you're working with it.
And you are going to use bias cut strips for the stems, right?

Thanks, for the insight. Just wanted to make sure there was no practical reason to leave it long. As far as the stems, I am planning to cut the scrap on the bias to make strips.
 
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