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Jack's - Morris - Special
- Thread starter Mihun09
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Have an issue with some fish-eyes refusing to take the fill coats. So, going to let it cure for a week, give it a thorough sanding and cleaning in those areas and go at it again next Friday. Most of the hull is nice and smooth with what amounts to 3 fill coats at this point, still some areas where the weave is not covering but those are mostly vertical surfaces at the ends, just need to get more resin on those areas. Funny thing is, the pigment is covering the majority of the hull really well, it is only the lightest wood, the Aspen, that is still showing through. The Aspen is very close in colour to the pigment which makes it odd it doesn't want to cover, but it will eventually.
As for pigment, since Alan commented it seems to be covering well. I have 8oz of white and I figure to use about 6oz for 4 pigmented fill coats. The manufacturer suggests light colours require more pigment. Since I am mixing my own colour, I am pouring two one oz bottles off into a separate pot, adding a dash of yellow to get the cream colour I want (not exact science at all) then putting the mixed colour back into the original bottles which gives me an even split for two pots of resin. By not filling the 1oz bottles full, I get some left in the original pot and after 2 coats I have about 1 oz extra. In doing it this way I can extend my pigment into 4 coats and leave myself 2 unopened 1oz bottles in case I need it further down the road, such as, after doing the final sand before varnish I find it is still a bit thin, I will have sufficient pigment left to do another fill coat.
For those wondering why I have 8, 1oz bottles... the original order was for one 8oz can but that was back ordered 4 weeks so they sent me 8 1oz bottles for the same price.
Now, if I could find Epifanes in a semi-gloss finish it would hide some of the imperfections that are showing on the highly glossed hull. It is only my second stripper so I can forgive myself for some boo boo's, but as Jim says, it won't affect the boats handling and it was built to be paddled and that it will be.
Karin
As for pigment, since Alan commented it seems to be covering well. I have 8oz of white and I figure to use about 6oz for 4 pigmented fill coats. The manufacturer suggests light colours require more pigment. Since I am mixing my own colour, I am pouring two one oz bottles off into a separate pot, adding a dash of yellow to get the cream colour I want (not exact science at all) then putting the mixed colour back into the original bottles which gives me an even split for two pots of resin. By not filling the 1oz bottles full, I get some left in the original pot and after 2 coats I have about 1 oz extra. In doing it this way I can extend my pigment into 4 coats and leave myself 2 unopened 1oz bottles in case I need it further down the road, such as, after doing the final sand before varnish I find it is still a bit thin, I will have sufficient pigment left to do another fill coat.
For those wondering why I have 8, 1oz bottles... the original order was for one 8oz can but that was back ordered 4 weeks so they sent me 8 1oz bottles for the same price.
Now, if I could find Epifanes in a semi-gloss finish it would hide some of the imperfections that are showing on the highly glossed hull. It is only my second stripper so I can forgive myself for some boo boo's, but as Jim says, it won't affect the boats handling and it was built to be paddled and that it will be.
Karin
Looks super, really special! Don't know about the tracking idea, this canoe isn't really a hard tracking design, it spins on a dime, and needs some discipline to go straight some times, but that's what makes it so special.
Looks good, it will be a nice paddle from what I experienced from Memaquays boat.
Even after 5 fill coats, ( 4 with pigment ), I will need to paint it. When I sanded this morning before getting back to the fill coats I got down far enough to bring wood out again and despite loading the pigment on this last coat I can still see through. It is ok though since I can mix a flat white and yellow to match the cream I have been using and have a dull finish and still when it scratches it will show same colour. Should be oodles of resin to sand smooth now.
Talk about deja vu...
That's just what I ran into with my Kite build! I had about that many coats of pigmented resin and still had a slightly translucent appearance. Ultimately I used an Interlux paint.
I bet you're itching to get it off the forms.
That's just what I ran into with my Kite build! I had about that many coats of pigmented resin and still had a slightly translucent appearance. Ultimately I used an Interlux paint.
I bet you're itching to get it off the forms.
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As much as I would like to spray it when I paint I don't have the equipment yet to do that and I don't want a gloss finish so will go with my usual rust paint and mix a colour to match the pigment.
Yea, itching to see how the funky inner stem turned out. In the picture you can see two forms out already. I had thought of pulling it off late tomorrow but will wait until maybe Thursday evening to give the fill coats a full week of cure time. It isn't like I have time to work on it week nights anyway. Not looking forward to sanding the inside, but at least glassing that will be easier.
Also need to pull the stick of wood out of the other building to see if it will work for innies and outies.
Ok, so, I couldn't wait a week, the fill coats were pretty hard so I just popped it off and got to planning on the next steps.
It's got some nice grain that will be beauty with the inside done clear. It will be really nice to look at all the time while paddling. There is a fair amount of gaps that will need to be filled, but so be it.
The Morris type stems came out pretty good. There are gaps under them but I knew that was going to happen as I stripped it. I should have had the stem sit higher on the mold to shave more off but I can fill the space with thickened resin and a fitted block to clean it up.
My existing removable yoke will fit fine as well. I will pull the hull in a bit before installing the inwales, at the moment it is 30 1/2" to the outside and empty weighs 30 pounds, which is heavier than it feels, but it will shed some weight with sanding and trimming the sheer line.
We have a piece of wood, 2 x 12, not sure what kind yet, which is just under 14 feet long and the innies are just over 14 feet long, so there will be ittie bittie scarfs, but this wood was free and should offer up plenty of rails for the various boats we have coming down the line. Hoping it is douglas fir or spruce, it is pretty much knot free as well so if it is spruce, it could be actual Morris rails too,
It's got some nice grain that will be beauty with the inside done clear. It will be really nice to look at all the time while paddling. There is a fair amount of gaps that will need to be filled, but so be it.
The Morris type stems came out pretty good. There are gaps under them but I knew that was going to happen as I stripped it. I should have had the stem sit higher on the mold to shave more off but I can fill the space with thickened resin and a fitted block to clean it up.
My existing removable yoke will fit fine as well. I will pull the hull in a bit before installing the inwales, at the moment it is 30 1/2" to the outside and empty weighs 30 pounds, which is heavier than it feels, but it will shed some weight with sanding and trimming the sheer line.
We have a piece of wood, 2 x 12, not sure what kind yet, which is just under 14 feet long and the innies are just over 14 feet long, so there will be ittie bittie scarfs, but this wood was free and should offer up plenty of rails for the various boats we have coming down the line. Hoping it is douglas fir or spruce, it is pretty much knot free as well so if it is spruce, it could be actual Morris rails too,
It is indeed D Fir and a beauty of a board, nice tight grain and knot free for the entire length. It must be an ancient piece of lumber. Rails are rough cut, next weekend when it is warmer I'll plane and cut the angle for the tumblehome and then start laying out for scuppers. On that note, Rob, do you remember the measurements you used for placing the seat and thwarts? In your thread Robin said his bow seat was 24" from center but did you then put the front of your solo seat 24 back from center? It appears closer in the photo's.
Glad you found something to make some rails out of.
I think I put the front of the seat 12 inches back from center, but I will measure tomorrow if I remember. I always put a rear thwart about three inches in back of the seat. Forget the distance of the front thwart, can measure that tomorrow too.
Don't worry about the measurements now, I picked places for everything then went ahead and marked out and cut my scuppers. Yesterday I took advantage of the above zero temperatures to do the rails since to router them I needed the back door of the shop open for the length and the table saw is in the unheated building. That all went quite well and after some nit picky sanding I'll get them soaking.
On Friday it was starting the interior sanding, which went well for awhile. (Gloves are for sissies). The RO worked on the majority of the hull, stem to stem but the tight ends required a different tactic. After smoothing to "it'll do" status I taped out and filled the gaps on that side. While waiting for it to cure I needed something else to do. So I put a new burr edge on my cabinet scrapers and set about smoothing out the first spot. I worked about ten minutes then stood back and looked at the other side wondering where all the dark spots came from... turned my right hand over and it is coated in blood from skinning my knuckles on the opposite side from where I was scraping. Paper towel and Windex got a lot of it off but it then soaked and dried in, but it will likely sand off better. I get to be a sissy for the remainder of the scraping the ends. Ok, so, sweat and blood I've done, no tears yet though.
Also on Friday morning as I was about to start sanding I noticed my cedar flour jar was pretty close to empty, so I shucked the vacuum and just loaded the on board bag on the RO for about a half hour. I did get 3/4 a jar of flour, but the entire shop is coated in dust and it really made me wonder how in heck we sanded the first stripper 5 years ago in the basement of a house without using a vac. If not for the other crap in the vacuum, I could just get it out of there.
I may go out and scrape some more tonight but sanding will commence again next weekend and if I stick to it, I could likely glass the inside Saturday or Sunday. Not sure yet how I will do the ends beside the stems, likely figure that out when I cut the glass.
Also picked up the wood I will be using for seat, thwart, decks et al. Plantation cherry, 4/4 and 6 foot long, $5.99 a BF. I have something special planned for the decks but you all will have to wait on that awhile.
On Friday it was starting the interior sanding, which went well for awhile. (Gloves are for sissies). The RO worked on the majority of the hull, stem to stem but the tight ends required a different tactic. After smoothing to "it'll do" status I taped out and filled the gaps on that side. While waiting for it to cure I needed something else to do. So I put a new burr edge on my cabinet scrapers and set about smoothing out the first spot. I worked about ten minutes then stood back and looked at the other side wondering where all the dark spots came from... turned my right hand over and it is coated in blood from skinning my knuckles on the opposite side from where I was scraping. Paper towel and Windex got a lot of it off but it then soaked and dried in, but it will likely sand off better. I get to be a sissy for the remainder of the scraping the ends. Ok, so, sweat and blood I've done, no tears yet though.
Also on Friday morning as I was about to start sanding I noticed my cedar flour jar was pretty close to empty, so I shucked the vacuum and just loaded the on board bag on the RO for about a half hour. I did get 3/4 a jar of flour, but the entire shop is coated in dust and it really made me wonder how in heck we sanded the first stripper 5 years ago in the basement of a house without using a vac. If not for the other crap in the vacuum, I could just get it out of there.
I may go out and scrape some more tonight but sanding will commence again next weekend and if I stick to it, I could likely glass the inside Saturday or Sunday. Not sure yet how I will do the ends beside the stems, likely figure that out when I cut the glass.
Also picked up the wood I will be using for seat, thwart, decks et al. Plantation cherry, 4/4 and 6 foot long, $5.99 a BF. I have something special planned for the decks but you all will have to wait on that awhile.
Any chance you would be staining the Doug fir? I liked the idea of darker contrasting rails with the cream color.
Yea, since the Doug Fir and this Cherry are close in colour already, I'll try a cherry stain to see if it gives me what I have in mind. The graphics are going to be burgundy so if I have a darker reddish trim colour it should all mesh.
Sounds good Karin.
Just got caught up reading this thread. Nice looking boat. Did your straps provide adequate pressure to the strips upon the form? I used bicycle tire tubes and was very satisfied with their ability to keep everything tight. They also came in handy pulling strips together. Thanks for sharing you build.
Yes and no on the straps. It should/would have worked had the wood been a bit more moist. On the first stripper I built about 5 years ago I used the dowels, tape and straps and it worked as intended. This time around, when I got to the turn of the bilge, there was no way the straps were going to hold the strips down with the amount of twist required so from that point to the center I had to resort to staples. I still used the dowel and tape between forms, but staples were required at the forms. We figure this lot of WRC was in the store for a couple of years and as dry as it could possibly be. The people at the store said it would likely sit in the bin for another couple of years before anyone bought it due to the price. At the time, October of last year, 2x6x16 clear WRC was selling at $8.79 a linear foot.
Now that I have a strongback that will last awhile, I will refine the strap process for the next build and possibly go with cove down to lessen the amount of edge breakout I had this time. There will be other strippers in my future, maybe one a Winter.
I'm planning on glassing the inside tomorrow, complete with one or two fill coats. Last stripper I only did one fill coat inside since the rough surface aids in traction et al. Have it mostly sanded. I hate sanding and considering I did a less than stellar job on stripping there is more sanding. The ends are a bit** and I have no idea how Mem went about getting into that tight space. I'm mostly scraping and using part of a belt sander belt cut into pieces in there and will have steps in the strips that I will need to be diligent about getting the glass to not bridge too badly. On the bright side, with my planned decks most of that area won't be easily seen so any fugly areas should be hidden. Considering the depth of the recurve on the stems, the plan is to lay out the glass as far as I feel I can easily do then cut pieces to fit into the ends. The inner stem won't get cloth but will get a coat of resin. Any gappage I have will get fillets after the glass has been applied.
So, since this is based upon a Morris, albeit not the one I am restoring, my plan for decks is to mimic the original Morris long decks. I have only photo's to go by but have a plan. Where most go with little decks or none at all, these decks will be a full 22" long. Should be quite something if I can pull it off how I have it planned. Maple for structure and Cherry for the actual deck. Seat, seat hangers and thwart will be cherry as well. I had considered doing synthetic cane for the seat but will stick to plan A which is a cream coloured webbing if I can get it.
So, since this is based upon a Morris, albeit not the one I am restoring, my plan for decks is to mimic the original Morris long decks. I have only photo's to go by but have a plan. Where most go with little decks or none at all, these decks will be a full 22" long. Should be quite something if I can pull it off how I have it planned. Maple for structure and Cherry for the actual deck. Seat, seat hangers and thwart will be cherry as well. I had considered doing synthetic cane for the seat but will stick to plan A which is a cream coloured webbing if I can get it.
Paint scraper sharpened up real good, and then a lot of hand sanding with a piece of rough paper wrapped around my hand. It's still pretty fuggly at the ends...that's why I paint the inside.
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