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Jack's - Morris - Special

Hanging seats always makes me nervous !

One trick I learned about drill bits is to use the longest ones you can find, when drilling the gunnel and hanger at the same time.

I use it as a visual aid to make sure my bit is going where I want.

Many times, I've had the bit veer off course and made a added repair.

I need a better drill press, and predrill my hangers. That would solve a lot of headache !

Looks good Karin.

Jim
 
I did drill the hangers first on the industrial drill press at work. It looks like that may have to be added to the shop tooling soon.

I used to have a small drill guide that I got at Sears. It was just a round plate with two long rods screwed into it with a mount that slid along the rods. The drill was attached to the mount. It worked fairly well for getting straight holes in things. Drill presses are so much cooler though.

I am salivating over this boat and if you could see it all coming together the way I am you would be drooling too. A very pretty boat, and I know it will paddle great too as Mem's does.

Christy
 
Ok, decks... for those of you who believe lighter is better, stop reading now!

This is part of the old school Morris stuff, the long decks similiar to what he offered, although mine are still short in comparison. The structure is all cherry and once I started to fit the basic under layers I was committed since I had to sand the inwales flush with the structure so the actual deck panels would sit flush. So, take a block plane and start removing stock, then finish with the sander. I still need to finish with some finesse work for the deck lobes, but that will come after I get them both built.

I fit the end pieces first, making as tight a fit as possible. The piece at the stem ends will be epoxied in place, the other shall just be screwed through the outside. The middle support piece is screwed as well. It will all get stained and varnished before final fitting.



I was a little sloppy with the router doing this by hand in the boat. I can always fill the gaps with thickened epoxy.



The actual deck plates are just a tad under 1/4" thick, two pieces opposite to each other cut from one 1" thick board. Basically they mirror the other since they came out of the same stick of wood. I sliced it down the middle and then planed them smooth.

The finished pieces will have the edges rounded over and be stained like the rails before varnish. The center piece is called a King Plank and is used to cover the seam. For my purpose, it also holds the center of the deck halves in place. The decking won't be glued down. There will also be a coaming on the curved outer portion which I have not made yet since I will need to soak and steam it once I figure out what I will use. It will be slightly taller than the king plank in the center and taper to the ends and finish flush with the inwales.

It should look pretty darned spiffy once completed. From the end of the lobe to the outside of the stem is 23 1/4", from the inside of the curve it is 19 3/4". I have enough room to go to 28" along the lobe line if I ever choose to lengthen them.

The stern is done, now to the bow. I have the basic underlay pieces done, just need to fit them and then split the other piece of cherry for decking.



 
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Got the bow deck done, going to cut and start soaking the coaming trim later.

Almost matched wood, but most of the good part got cut off.


Roughing in one half at a time. Shaping done on the belt sander.



If not for hard water, I could go paddle it.





Although it is still missing outwales, which will also be Dougy Fir, we thought to weight it. 45 pounds, so, likely come in under 50. No, wait, just remembered it will get a couple of pounds of brass stem bands, but still, one foot longer than the Chestnut and lighter, so a fair trade and selling the Chestnut paid for building this and then some.
 
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Wow, that is beautiful! I really like the decks! Have a carbon fiber one of a kind Prospector hull I aching to get done and am always looking for new ideas. You've done a grand job on this hull. Been a joy watch as it's coming near finish. Many thanks!
 
Mem

Yea, the under structure might be a tad of overkill. Without having carry thwarts the decks will be solid handles. This particular cherry is rock hard and tough to work with but we shall overcome.

You are welcome Doug. The decks will get shaped then stained, but I think only one coat so the grain shows well. Still plenty to do but it will be awhile until I can paddle it regardless. I still have a touch or two to add that may be different. I want to get a brass tag made as well, Made In Canada, Wolf Kraft, 001 serial number, something like that.
 
Ok, decks... for those of you who believe lighter is better, stop reading now

I believe sturdier is better, and will try to mentally store that deck plate technique away for future reference. I like it lots.

Let’s see, what can I discard to make room.

Searching. . . . The license tag from my first car. Good bye AFB714.

Searching. . . . The passwords from pre-retirement work computers that were changed every 6 months.

Searching. . . . Oh heck yes, my unfortunate cowboy boot phase. Best forgotten.

Searching. . . . .Metric to English conversions. . . . oops, already been deleted.
 
Mike, that structure goes back to the late 1880's when Bert Morris started building wood/canvas canoes, although he likely learned it from someone else. He was in the same vicinity as Gerrish, Rushton and E.M. White. During the depression in the late 1890's Rushton almost went out of business because his lapstrake boats were more expensive than the simple, w/c Morris canoes and Morris had mechanized his factory by that time.
 
That is real sweet Karin.
mostly%20done_zpsqqldtiga.jpg
 
I'm excited about this. I agree about knocking down the interior gloss. Those decks are gorgeous. And I love the (Chestnut Grey?) colour.
 
So, after a few coats of English Chestnut stain and more of varnish, I get to start putting it back together. The decks did not stain well, hard and soft spots made for a blotchy finish but I have to live with it. Another coat or two of Epifanes should help to bring the colour out more. Both decks are notched at the stems for the stem bands and the king plank will cover that. The little blocks at the ends were epoxied in, everything else is S/S screws. The outers will be screwed on as well eventually, should likely rip those tomorrow with the end in sight.



I painted the stainless screws with "brass" metallic paint and they came out decently, all screws are countersunk. Once varnished it should pop. The first attempt at the coaming was a failure so I will live with what you see until I can figure it out better.



Now, since Brad voted for satin...

 
Oh baby yeah, it's looking far too attractive and curvy to be a Jack. It's got to be a Jackie.
That curved thwart mirrors the lines and wood grain beautifully. Nice work Karin.
Blotchy fir? Maybe, but you're respecting the design and purpose, and this was never gonna be a faux canoe to go above a bar.
Can't wait to see it in the water this summer.
You do get summer up there right?
 
Summer, yea, but I'll take Spring for now. Low 50's again today and the melt is on big time.

More varnish, flip it sand and paint, outers, then the striping. Another few weeks should do it.
 
Looks nice Karin !

Guessing you'll either be carrying a load, or maybe adding another seat.
Just going by my solos, I set my seats about 5 or 6" aft of center.

Now if you plan to kneel, you are probably right .

Anxious to see it in the water ! Hope you're planning a celebration !
 
Jim

There is always deliberation when placing the seat in our solo's. I had the Chestnut set up close to center, same with my first solo w/c Huron. This one is set up about halfway between factory, like Robin's w/c, and what Mem did in his Jack's last year. I figure the barrel in front of the thwart, pack(s) behind it with plenty of room for my long legs and there is sufficient room to kneel and although the seat looks low in front, there is 7" of room to get my feet under. I don't do whitewater so no issue with entrapment. If it doesn't work there, I can shift it a bit, but the scuppers won't allow much movement. We shall see.

I'll start sanding the hull today for painting and hopefully rip the outers as well.

Karin
 
I like what you did with the decks, sure does have that old Morris look. Nice high stems I like that look a lot, old school.
Satin_zpssfbuizng.jpg
 
Winter refuses to loosen it's grip on us, with half the back yard finally snow free last night we got another 2" and we have more on the way. Open water is still just a dream for us.



A couple weeks after giving up on the coaming it came to me how I could do it and be happy with it and the results are close to what I originally hoped for. It also provided me with a way to do it in the future should I go old school with another build.





Boat is 99% finished, I need to scuff and varnish all the brightwork again and May repaint the hull yet again. Even with the flat paint I can clearly see all the woo woo's in the hull so gloss might be the ticket regardless. No graphics yet, I am having a devil of a time to find materials for masking and painting my design. Vinyl has taken over and although I do have the skills to apply vinyl, I would prefer paint for it's durability. Even modern vinyls can easily be removed on a hot day.

The stem band slips under the deck and is screwed into the foredeck nice and neat.

 
Beautiful. I never noticed till now how the hull colour is echoed in the one pale interior strip. Very classy looking craft.
I like the idea of holding out for a painted graphic rather than adhering vinyl. We just got a dusting of snow today. Checking the weather forecast tells me spring is still a ways from now. Patience Mihun. We'll get there.
Thanks for the update. I'd like to put my feet up with a hot cuppa coffee in that shop of yours and admire that canoe.
 
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