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Freedom 17 Strip build

Dave,

I have used some scraps of carbon/kevler to repair my stems from time to time.
It's an OK look, not nearly as pretty as your stripped bottom.
 
Hi Dave

Are you using Aspen for the light colored strips ?

I switched to it, and love it ! It sands about like cedar, but retains the light color better than the light grain cedar I've used.
 
I would just go with the standard clear finished glass on the inside so you can always see that pattern that took so long to do, or just hang the boat on a wall and look at it.
 
Dave,
Fantastic job on the stripping...ooh, I didn't think I'd ever say that to another man. Sounds kinda funny when I say it out loud
I would apply the clearest material you can possibly get hold of. You will want to admire all of your hard work for years to come.
I think I would spend all of my time on the water, looking down at the boat, instead of where I was going.

Great job man!

Momentum
 
I've never worked with kevlar but from what I've heard it's difficult to do large pieces without vacuum bagging since the kevlar wants to float on the resin, you need some way of keeping it tight to the wood. I don't believe carbon has that problem. I don't know what you get when you combine the two.

Alan
 
My cousin used to make body parts for his race car using Kevlar. You are right Alan, he always used a vac system. Too bad he gave that one up. So much fun to watch that car go around the track, but I digress.

Go with clear, clear, clear, and then take a bunch of pictures and post them here...Oooh that rhymes. I'm such a loser

Momentum
 
Wow. Crapy picture maybe, but sure not crapy workmanship. Outstanding work!! As for the inside glassing, I think it would be a shame to cover that beautiful work with some thing as "ugly" as carbon/kevlar fabric.
 
Thanks everyone for the complements. I think it look pretty cool too. The reason I was asking about the Kevlar is because I'm concerned that I may have gaps on the inside if I over beveled the strips. I guess I'll see once I flip it.
 
Just wanted to add to the point that covering up a work of art on one side would be a mistake.
That canoe is really unique, and I think the design works. A few gaps are "character", anyway.
 
It's amazing how a build can be going so well and then you get to sanding and it just seems like it's taking forever. I sanded out one side up to 120grit with my RO sander, I did a little work with a sanding board but got tired of that. I was going to call it a night but I thought I'd wet it with H2O to get an idea what it'll look like after it's epoxied. Here are the pictures, the flat sawn sides have some crazy grain which I'm not sure I love but I think I'm getting used to it. BTW not a big fan of flat sawn cedar, it really likes to splinter and the rays in the grain are much harder than than the rest of the wood so the sanding is uneven.

Jim, sorry I didn't answer your question about Aspen earlier I just saw it! No never used Aspen, I found some clear cedar at Lowes which was pretty white for the diamonds.

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Seeing the bow reminds me of a problem I'm running into. I stripped this without internal stems and also without staples so I'm afraid when I cut back the bow to get a 1/2" flat to install my external stem on the strips will spring open. There will be nothing left to hold them in position, right now they are only held in place by being glued to the strip on the opposite side. I think I'm going to fiberglass (ignoring the ext. stems) the outside then flip the hull and add a fillet to the internal stem area to hold everything in place. Lastly go back and add the ext. stems and fiberglass.

Sound like a good plan? Any other ideas
 
You're right about that flat sawn cedar, it is the devil! When I have had to use it, it has caused me some "trouble". I'm not sure why you would bother adding an exterior stem at this point, as you have basically been doing the stemless construction style. If you put a couple of layers on first, before you fiberglass the hull, and maybe add another on after the hull is done, those stems will be quite tough. On the couple of canoes I built without stems, I wasn't worried about strength, I just didn't like the looks.
 
I really like that flat sawn look, it is wild!! I'm sure it is a pain to work with, just like doug fir, but the look is awesome/different/ one of a kind!!
 
Thanks everyone. I'm debating covering the inside with carbon Kevlar hybrid cloth. I think it will look cool. Has anyone ever used this type of cloth?

Another option would be to use S-glass. It is clear, and 25% stiffer than E-glass. Also way cheaper than carbon fiber. I'd have a hard time covering that hull with carbon !!

Jim
 
It's amazing how a build can be going so well and then you get to sanding and it just seems like it's taking forever. I sanded out one side up to 120grit with my RO sander, I did a little work with a sanding board but got tired of that. I was going to call it a night but I thought I'd wet it with H2O to get an idea what it'll look like after it's epoxied. Here are the pictures, the flat sawn sides have some crazy grain which I'm not sure I love but I think I'm getting used to it. BTW not a big fan of flat sawn cedar, it really likes to splinter and the rays in the grain are much harder than than the rest of the wood so the sanding is uneven.

Jim, sorry I didn't answer your question about Aspen earlier I just saw it! No never used Aspen, I found some clear cedar at Lowes which was pretty white for the diamonds.



Flat grain can separate a lot easier, under pressure. It's also flimsy, and sands uneven. But Beautiful !

When you buy flat sawn PLANKS, and cut it into strips. Your Strips are Quarter sawn. The strongest.

You have a beautiful hull. It will work out !
I'd double layer the outside with a main layer of 6oz E-glass, and a top layer of S-glass on the outside. Then two layers of 6 oz E-glass on the inside. With the second layer covering up to the waterline.

Here I go again ! Talking like it's My boat ! It's just that I feel I'm right there ! Great job with the pictures !

Jim
 
Beautiful, Stunning, A work of art!

The grain in the wood and the colours all come together to make it unique.

The one stripper I have built we used Manitoba cedar and we have colours from white through yellow, orange, pink and more. It is really beautiful how it all works together. That is the point of building with wood isn't it, for the colour and grain effects we get. If not, then just paint it or use some other medium for strips.

Karin
 
Dave,
Don't sweat the stems, as everyone has said upthread, just add a couple of layers of cloth to the stems and be done. That's how I build most of my hulls and they are plenty strong.
And yeah, that flat sawn cedar has a crazy pattern to it, I like it a lot!!
 
Well I rounded over the stem and filled the resulting gaps with epoxy. I'm going to let that start hardening and then I'm going to sealcoat the hull. I figure if I don't like the stemless version I can always go back to my original plan and add the stems later. Hopefully I'll get some fiberglass on tomorrow.
 
Dave,

One of my buddies was very disatisfied with the way his stems were coming out as he built his Wee Lassie II.
He did a plumb cut right through the stems and inserted a laminated stem piece. To see it now, you would have no idea that he changed his mind in mid-build...
But, it sounds like you've already got a back up plan.
Will it be in the water this spring?
 
SG yeah I think if I change my mind I no one will know. I mostly wanted the external stems to cover up some gaps that showed up as i eased the ends I hate to fill gaps. I'm hoping to be ready for spring but I really can't get out much then anyways because I coach Little League. Here are some pictures I just took with the good camera just after I put on a epoxy seal coat. P1080901.JPG P1080903.JPG P1080904.JPG
 
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