I considered that. I did my first one and it was a lot easier. But I thought I'd take the plunge with this one. I can only assume it's true to the original designers intention.Not too late to built it Stemless.
I considered that. I did my first one and it was a lot easier. But I thought I'd take the plunge with this one. I can only assume it's true to the original designers intention.Not too late to built it Stemless.
Heavily caffeinated.
I'll try that when I do my bow stem. I came close to deck area of the stem. That would be bad to be short thereThat is a tight bend for sure. Sometimes even when steaming if I was making that sharp a bend, I would clamp the wood at the radius first, then bend down each end. That way the area most likely to crack has pressure at the start. You need to keep in mind that the strips slide and and might make one side too short if not careful.
Jim
Yes it does has tapered stems. My strips are 1 3/4" wide. I remember reading that and forgot it. Thanks for the reminder Rick.I have 2 thoughts based on 1 (almost) canoe build.
It looks like the Raven has tapered stems so you are likely bending 1 5/8 inch wide stock around a 3/4 inch wide stem form? If you have scrap 3/4 inch sheet goods kicking around you might double the thickness of the stem bending form which would let you attach grounds (faced with packing tape) to one side. In the heat of battle you would only need to focus on the bend, not also, lateral alignment. You would be able to push the assembly hard to the ground side.
If you have any extra wood an additional, sacrificial layer on the outside might be helpful. it seems like the outer lamination (not backed?) is the first to fail.
Rick
Making my stems using the Nick Schade method.
I wish Nick would have shown the grain orientation of the strips.For those who are not familiar with this reference, Nick Schade, a professional and expert maker of strip kayaks and sometimes canoes, shows in the following video how to bend stems using thin laminations of dry wood instead of one thick strip of steamed wood.
Another thought.
Instead of bending wet wood ? How about lap joining the vertical to the horizontal pieces, using dry wood.
It would be just as strong, maybe stronger.
Lap layer.
Jim
I heard it crack, but it was just a little on the edge so I thought I could work around it. A minute later I heard a louder crack and then I figured there was no way around it then. That's a sharp bend in that spot.
Um no I didn't. It was strapping tape, but not fiber reinforced. That probably contributed to my failure. Hmm I guess I better get some. The store room at work doesn't stock the good strapping tape, bunch of cheap skates. I guess I'll have to spend my own money on that.Did you put fiber reinforced strapping tape on the outside radius of the outside strip as Nick Schade does? I can't tell from the pictures.
I remember reading your post when you built yours. Yep maybe your fault Mem. I figured if you could do it, I could too. Ha Well it'll work out. I had my strips a little on the heavy side of 1/8 thick, maybe more like 3/16? My quality of wood selection probably could've been better.I wouldn't overthink it. The single best thing you can do is make sure your strips are really thin. Mine were around 1/8. I just wrapped saran wrap around it, no tape, and after it had settled down, I sliced open the saran wrap so the glue would dry all the way. I left them for two or three days, and when I took them off, there was very little spring back.
Yes I did this time. I think it helped? That roll of fibered strapping tape was 6 bucks! Good grief. I'm sure I'll find other uses for the rest of it. I'll probably have to use the rest for redoing my stems.Did you put fiber reinforced strapping tape on the outside radius of the outside strip as Nick Schade does? I can't tell from the pictures.
I wondered about that. I went back and re-read your post, after you mentioned it. I just screwed up and made them to thick. Just stupidity. I can easily recut my stems. Thanks for advice. Lining up my forms right now. I'm also waiting on my bandsaw blade so I can cut the taper on my stems. Bandsaw blade been struck in New Jersey post office for 6 days now???I had a similar situation (post # 31 on my build thread) and after some great advice lowered the stem form the appropriate amount. If you do that the end of the interior stem inside the canoe will be 7/8 inch high instead of 3/4. You could leave it or work it down to 3/4 inch at that point.
Rick