Raven, part 2

[Alan Gage]

Call me crazy but I really don't think sanding the inside is all that bad. I think it's about managing expectations and personal preferences.

90% of the interior hull is pretty easy to sand. It's only in the bilge turn and close to the stems that it gets tough and can require something other than a ROS but even then with a couple foam backing pads I can do most of the bilge with the ROS too.

On my personal hulls I won't be filling the weave on the interior so I know I won't have a perfect glossy finish so there's no sense in sanding it to perfection. The stems and bilge are never sanded to perfection and I'm sure if you looked you could find plenty of evidence but it simply doesn't bother me. When I was building I'd sand the full interior in an evening, usually a few hours.

Another key is a vacuum connected to the ROS. What a night and day difference.

Alan

 

[memaquay]

My standards are very similar to yours, and I do use a vacuum hooked up to the sander, but I'm lazy, really dislike hand sanding, and there is going to be a fair amount on this one, Sanded about four stations worth on the bottom today, wasn't bad. That gorilla wood glue is good stuff, seemed hard at first but sanded pretty well.

 

[scratchypants]

My standards are very similar to yours, and I do use a vacuum hooked up to the sander, but I'm lazy, really dislike hand sanding, and there is going to be a fair amount on this one, Sanded about four stations worth on the bottom today, wasn't bad. That gorilla wood glue is good stuff, seemed hard at first but sanded pretty well.

It didn't want to push the strips apart? Did you moisten them?

 

[Boatman53]

I have used gorilla glue on a strip boat and didn’t experience any pushing apart. I would use it again because of the easy clean up and sanding. I have had failures with the glue on other projects but since it gets coated in epoxy and glass it’s not an issue.
Jim

 

[memaquay]

The gorilla glue is not the normal foamy stuff we are used to. It is actually a wood glue, similar to regular wood glue, but a bit thicker and dries quicker.

 

[memaquay]

Found some nice cherry for the trim, six foot lengths, woodworking teacher set up this scarfing jig for me. In theory it works well, but in reality, it is a little loose on consistency. All good though, my gunwales are thicker than I need, so I'll shove them all through the thickness planer once they are glued.

 

[Jim Dodd]

Nice jig.
It looks like you might cut into the screws that hold the stop block ? Maybe there isn't a screw in the bottom hole?

The angle looks fine.

The problems I have is keeping the trim, tight to the jig, and square to the table.

I often fiddle with clamps and make a few recuts.

Anyway, a little filler mixed with epoxy, fills any voids, and provides the best bond.
I've never had one come undone.

Jim.

 

[scratchypants]

I hand plane mine, clamped as a pair. It doesn't take very long with a sharp tool:

 

[alsg]

Another scarfing jig.

YAER (Yet Another Explorer Rebuild)

At the request of Mr. McCrea I'm going to start what will surely be a multi-part thread about the Royalex Explorer I am slowly rebuilding. The plan is to refit this canoe for solo paddling, primarily for use in whitewater up to Class III. For you builders/restorers, this is going to be old...

www.canoetripping.net

 

[Boatman53]

Since people are sharing scarfing jigs etc, here is a writeup I did a while ago on how I make a hook scarf.

Scarfing jig

I offered to give a tutorial on hooked scarfs and nibbed hook scarfs so I took the time yesterday to put it together. A plane scarf joint can slide apart when it is clamped, a hooked doesn't. The jig I made almost thirty years ago is a bit big for this size work although I have done it, I...

www.canoetripping.net

Jim

 

[memaquay]

I was hoping people would post their scarfing rigs. I've used several, and still have not found the perfect one yet.

 

[Cruiser]

Every time I see skarfing brought up in a thread, it is almost always follows the same process of cutting larger pieces to smaller pieces, then joining all the smaller pieces to make longer lengths.
When I look at that as a process, it seems to make better sense to just skarf once to join the larger pieces of wood, then cut the smaller, longer pieces from that and forego trying to makeup many skarfed joints.
Doing gunnels, I will skarf the larger hardwood lumber and cut gunnels. in the longer length, directly with a skilsaw. Getting ready for the next build, I also just skarfed 3 pieces of NWC at 8' x 2" x 6", making two 30" skarf joints and forming a single19' 2" x 6", then cutting full length strips directly. In these cases, only 1 or 2 larger skarfs are needed and I find the larger skarfs are a lot easier to manage and work with.

We are talking specifically about boat builds here, so think strips and gunnels ... I am really curious why folks mostly choose to do all the skarfs individually, instead of just up front on the rough lumber?

Brian

 

[Alan Gage]

I made a quick and dirty one from scraps 8 years ago that I'm still using today.

Quick and easy scarfing jig for table saw

I know most of you done plenty of scarfing and have your own methods and jigs but much of this wood working stuff is still fairly new to me and I'm sure I'm not the only one. Before I did much wood working making jigs for certain tasks seemed very difficult. It's refreshing to find that, most of...

www.canoetripping.net

A couple of toggle clamps would be an easy and welcome addition for clamping.

Alan

 

[memaquay]

When I look at that as a process, it seems to make better sense to just skarf once to join the larger pieces of wood, then cut the smaller, longer pieces from that and forego trying to makeup many skarfed joints.

I guess it has to do with the stock you have to start with. The cherry I had was 6 feet long by 8 inches. I had two boards, but they both varied widely in colour. Cutting them all out of one board allows for a more consistent colour match, if that is important. Plus, by the time I cut the wood into enough pieces to make the 16 feet, well, it probably wouldn't be worth it in this case. I have scarfed cedar boards before to get full length strips, that worked out quite well.

 

[Cruiser]

I guess it has to do with the stock you have to start with. The cherry I had was 6 feet long by 8 inches. I had two boards, but they both varied widely in colour. Cutting them all out of one board allows for a more consistent colour match, if that is important. Plus, by the time I cut the wood into enough pieces to make the 16 feet, well, it probably wouldn't be worth it in this case. I have scarfed cedar boards before to get full length strips, that worked out quite well.

I can see how that makes perfect sense given the starting stock.

 

[Rippy]

Any progress Mem?

 

[memaquay]

I am a hair's width away from finding the courage to spend the last 15 minutes sanding before I fiberglass the interior. I finished the gunwales, more or less, ran them full length through the thickness planer on all sides, they look pretty snazzy now. I guess the thing is, the pressure is off, as I thought it was going to be early ice out this year. A buddy of mine measured the ice thickness in Nakina two weeks ago at 26 inches, he measured it again this weekend at 32, so we are actually building ice, not losing it, GOSH! This has been one of the longest winters I can remember, but then again, maybe I have just become more proficient at complaining.

 

[memaquay]

Here's a pic just for you Rippy! My Kapuskasing Dancing Shoes just getting ready for Ice Out Dance!

 

[Rippy]

That's a different dancing outfit than the Plaid Prancer Dancer one. Less shrinkage at ice out?

 

[memaquay]

Glassed the inside last night, it was odious, I rushed it, the results are predictable. Had some outgassing over night, I'll just cut the bubbles out and patch them, it will be fine, after all I did want it to win the fugly contest.