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Solo 14

Alan,
Sharp looking little boat! I'm curious to hear what it weighs.

Now, completely off topic...What are the dimensions of your shop? MDB (My Darling Bride) and I are finalizing plans for our new home, and I am deciding on what size detached garage/shop to build. I remember you posting photos and descriptions of the shop build, but not the details. You're on an insulated slab? I would imagine you have similar frost depths to me in upstate NY. I am assuming that's a prefab metal building, who's the supplier?

Sorry for the interruption, now back to admiring Alan's skills and motivation!
 
Christy !
I figured I'd get the " You Call that a Wave?" response ! Sorry but that's the best I have local :rolleyes:

Alan.
The solo looks great !
Wood trim on the solo ?
I know we obsess about weight, when durability should be more important ! It's not how heavy it is, but rather if it will get me to where I want to go, and back again ! My two pecos !

I see also the Penobscot has rails. You may want to keep that one !

"Messy people are more Creative !!!" Proven fact ! I wish I would have had that quote when I was a kid ! Mom wouldn't have bought it either !
:rolleyes:

Jim
 
Alan,


Now, completely off topic...What are the dimensions of your shop? MDB (My Darling Bride) and I are finalizing plans for our new home, and I am deciding on what size detached garage/shop to build. I remember you posting photos and descriptions of the shop build, but not the details. You're on an insulated slab? I would imagine you have similar frost depths to me in upstate NY. I am assuming that's a prefab metal building, who's the supplier?

The shop is 36x48 with 12' sidewalls. It's an insulated slab as well as a Frost Protected Shallow Foundation so my footings are only down about 18". Normal footing depth here would be 4'. That meant I could excavate the build site myself with my dad's 50hp Kubota with loader. I stick built the shop myself.

There are windows in the two walk-in doors as well as small windows in the large overhead door but no windows in the walls. I was originally going to put in some windows but the more I thought about it the less necessary it seemed. Our auto shop doesn't have any windows and neither does my dad's shop at his house. I've spent plenty of time working in both and never wished there were windows. Wall space can be at a premium in shops and I didn't want windows to keep me from putting equipment or storage where I wanted it. I don't regret that decision at all.

While building I added two ledger boards to the east sidewall so that I could easily add a lean-to. One ledger is for rafters and the other for the bottom cord. The lean-to is about 10' wide and is handy for extra storage, covered space to work outside, room to park a vehicle, or just a nice spot to sit and read.

Heat is overhead radiant, which is a no-brainer for me. We've had this in our large auto repair shop for about 20 years now and it's been great. Despite large overhead doors opening and closing all day long when it's well below zero outside the temp always recovers quickly and it's amazing how evenly the heat is distributed in the shop despite the distance from some areas to the heaters. It's a very comfortable heat when the furnace is running, feels like standing in the sunshine.

I originally thought about doing in-floor radiant but decided against it. I think it would make sense if it was a shop that was being used all day every day but for sporadic use I'm afraid it would be a waste of energy and not very warm. The slab seems like too much mass to try and heat for occasional use. Maybe I'm wrong but if the shop temp was 40 degrees and I wanted to work in there for 1-2 hours in the evening and turned the heat up to 60 I don't think I'd get much benefit although the heaters would be burning plenty of propane and the shop would continue to warm up after I'd left (when I don't need it) as the slab continued to radiate. Overhead radiant heat warms up the floors too but it warms up all the other objects in the shop at the same time, including you. So when I crank the heat from 40 to 60 I can feel the warmth almost immediately and can work comfortably. My tools and equipment are all warm as well.

Since I know they'll heat a shop surprisingly evenly, instead of running it down the center of the shop I ran only about 13' from the end wall and angled it towards the far end of the shop instead of letting it point straight down. This means the heater is about 35' from the far end of the shop but I've never noticed a temp difference when walking back and forth except when the shop is initially coming up to temp. I placed it in that location so that it would be over my main work area to keep me good and warm and would quickly heat my equipment. The far end of the shop is more for storage and a place to park a car...which I never do.

The Reznor heaters at the shop are going on strong for 20+ years without any trouble or maintenance. The Reznor in my dad's shop is probably close to 10 years old and no problems there either. So that's what I went with too. So far so good.

1-VP1.png


Alan
 
Weighed the boat tonight - 28.5 pounds. I'm not trying for a super light build with this one but I was a bit disappointed with that weight. I was hoping it would come in under 35 pounds total but that's going to pretty tough now. I wish I would have weighed it before putting on the carbon fiber. Without at least vacuum bagging I don't think carbon and kevlar are doing us many favors in the weight department.

Wood trim on the solo ?

Yes. Just need to settle on the species and dimensions. I think I'll screw it on for a change.

Alan
 
I see the tumblehome now. It also looks like you raised the tip of the bow sharply, I'm thinking for white water use? What works best for you, under or over with the 1/2 layer.
 
What works best for you, under or over with the 1/2 layer.

Unless my half layer is something like S-glass for better abrasion resistance I bury it under the full layer. It's just a lot easier and the transition doesn't bother me.

Alan
 
Saw your Kite down at the Buffalo last weekend. Nice job for your first build. I couldn't find any faults. You and Jim need to come down for the fall rendezvous or next spring. It was a great time. The high water made for some nice rapids. Brad got a heck of a deal on a nice canoe.

You'll have to let us know how the rocker works out on this build. I'm working on a design right now and have been trying to delve into rocker theory without a whole lot of luck.
 
Saw your Kite down at the Buffalo last weekend. Nice job for your first build. I couldn't find any faults.

Want to hear a funny story? Two days after I sold my Kite I bought another one at an auction in Minneapolis. It was built by a friend of mine who lives in the area and he did a fantastic job. Really pretty boat with nice details. I had no desire or intention of buying it but the price was just too good to pass up so I brought it home. When I tried to tell him how nice it was he just shook his head and shrugged it off. All he sees are the faults that we all see in our own builds but for me, looking at the boat with fresh eyes, I don't see them. It was interesting for me to be on the other side of the conversation since it's usually me saying "aw, golly shucks it's not that nice" when people complement my boats.

Alan
 
Geeze Alan, eat some spam so you do't have to carry those fly weight canoes around! Up here it's not a canoe unless it weighs at least 65 pounds!
 
That's a pretty good name, Jim. I'm terrible with stuff like that so I'll happily adopt it.

Some progress was made on Grasshopper and then it got sidelined for a bit while other crazy things started happening. Now it's getting fast tracked to get done and out of the shop....because soon I'm going to be out the shop and will have bigger fish the fry. Pretty unexpectedly I bought a new house and at this point feel pretty confident I have a buyer lined up for mine. Rushing to get a few things done around here and then I'll be doing a lot of work to get the new place ready to go.

So today the gunwales went on. Some poor execution early in the build (sheer strip isn't tall enough) made for a not so perfect install that will require some more work later on to prettify. I used ash with 3/8" outers and 1/2" inners. I'm thinking those inners will be too narrow to run a #8 bolt through so I'll probably glue some 1/4" strips where the thwarts and grab handles will land.

Earlier this month I rehabbed an old Penobscot with rotted gunwales. This was my first ever experience working with screwed on gunwales. I really liked how easy they were to remove and rebuild. I always thought the fasteners added a lot of weight but when I put them on the scale the screws were only a few ounces.

So after that experience I decided to screw the gunwales on Grasshopper too. Sure is faster, easier, and cleaner than epoxying them in place. I've always liked that epoxy completely seals up the gap between the hull and gunwale but then I realized that I take care of my boats and don't leave them outside so rot shouldn't really be an issue. And if they do rot or break it's not a big deal to remove them. The ease of removal also made me feel more comfortable about making such thin rails from less than perfect ash.

It's close to being ready. Just a little more work to do on the seat and install the thwarts, grab handles, and little decks and It'll be able to hit the water. Maybe I'll launch it from my new front yard!

20170529_001 by Alan, on Flickr

20170529_002 by Alan, on Flickr

Oh, and let's keep this buying and selling houses thing just between us. Not ready to go public yet but I figured it wouldn't hurt to put it here on the internet.

Alan
 
We have the first converted to using screws, yee haw.

Does the new place have shop or do you get the fun of designing and building another one?
 
Does the new place have shop or do you get the fun of designing and building another one?

It has an attached 20x24 garage that was 'converted' to an unheated 3 season room and an unattached 20x30 pole building that's in pretty tough shape with a gravel floor. Probably not worth trying to turn it into a real shop but it will be good for canoe and lumber storage.

I originally planned to build a new shop, and still might, but for the time being I'll see how I get along working out of that attached garage. The house has a really nice basement and I envision setting up a strongback down there for building canoes. Last night the thought occurred to me that I could add on to the length of this garage to get more room. Will have to measure next time I'm out there. I could probably add 10' or so.

Either way the house will take priority. Not likely to be any big moves on the shop until next year. That will give me time to see how I get along in smaller working spaces and figure out where I might like to place it on the property.

Alan
 
Well, you say this will be a day tripper, but it looks to have some volume there. Maybe a weekender? Nice job Alan.
I'm enjoying this build, and always learn more than I've forgotten, which is a good thing. I also never knew that there are haystacks in Iowa (between the beans and corn). lol
Good luck and best wishes with the address change.
 
Hopefully the buyer of your place will build canoes !! ! Then I could stop and see two builders with one trip !! :p;)
Congrats on the new place ! I'd better stop up and check it out !

Jim
 
I'm late to this party! That is yet another really nice canoe Alan! Good luck with the new place!

"Maybe I'm wrong but if the shop temp was 40 degrees and I wanted to work in there for 1-2 hours in the evening and turned the heat up to 60 I don't think I'd get much benefit although the heaters would be burning plenty of propane and the shop would continue to warm up after I'd left (when I don't need it) as the slab continued to radiate"

When my brother built his house in northern N.Y. , (Champion, ny) we burried in floor hot water heat in his basement slab. He is on a big hill surrounded by open farm fields with lots of high winds... so windy (snow drifts) in fact that he had to sell the plow truck and buy a kabota with a snow blower... he has the basement temp set at 60 all year round. That basement floor dries in minutes when we bring in all the ice covered fishing or hunting gear. When I asked how much that zone runs he replied with "almost never" propane is his fuel of choice as well. Once it's up to temp (about a day) the system doesn't seem to need very much to keep it there. I can't remember exactly but I think he has a monitor on all of the zones to track usage. I have to ask him.

Jason

ETA: you can walk around barefoot on that basement slab in the dead of winter and not feel cold in -30 degree weather!
 
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Oh, a little additional info on that basement... his whole basement is poured ... into those foam forms that go together like leggos... 2 inches of foam inside and out on his basement walls. If that don't make sense let me know. But I think that may also have a big effect on how efficient his in floor heat is.
 
Sorry for putting this all on your build Alan

Well I spoke with my brother. It takes 2 days to come up to temp... he has low basement ceilings, which are insulated and also have in floor hot water heat. Not a good idea for a garage. In his garage to be built in a couple years, he will be going with the overhead radiant like yours Alan

Jason
 
No problem. Nothing wrong with a little thread drift.

you can walk around barefoot on that basement slab in the dead of winter and not feel cold in -30 degree weather!

While obviously not as warm as a heated slab even an unheated slab doesn't feel cold to bare feet as long as it's properly insulated. Both my shop and house have insulated slabs and multiple times I've checked their temperature with an IR thermometer. They're always withing a degree or two of all the other objects in the house. Insulation also eliminates the sweating/slippery/tool rust causing concrete slabs during humid summer weather.

Alan
 
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