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First build 17' Freedom

Oh, deficately!! 1/8" is plenty for bottom reinforcement, or even for a full boat core.
A while back I had made some sample laminations with 2 layers of 6 oz E glass on each side of 1/8" H80 foam. Even though the samples were relatively small, it was clearly as stiff as a stripped hull section, maybe even stiffer. It was definitely lighter in weight.

I understand why production boats have little foam as a substrate (mostly cost, also difficulty of forming compound curves), but a home built composite based on 1/8" foam with double layers of 6 oz glass could be far tougher and lighter than any similar size/shape production hull. Oh, and even though the foam seems expensive, compare that cost to that of a $3,500 production boat that you're afraid to walk in if it's unsupported!

For a foam cored hull, there's really no need for Kevlar, carbon fiber, or even S glass. Once we (that's means all of us backyard builders here) figure out how to easily work with that 1/8" H80, most of us will be building with foam cored E glass. It's another example of Darwin's theory of survival of the lightest, er...I mean the ability of canoe designs to adapt and survive, no not survive, flourish.

Booyah!!
 
Good to know, and interesting concept on a total foam and glass canoe. Given your tests, we should be ok just glassing over the foam core and may not need to shell out the $ on more carbon fiber. Thanks!
 
Wow all thanks for the education! I live down in the la crosse area and get up to the cities enough to get a sheet of foam. Will talk to my buddy about doing it :).

Jim - i will take a look at my photos and see if i have any pics of putting the shrink wrap on. My buddy just went to a marine place and got enough to cover the boat. We cut it to rough size and used tape around the gunnels to hold the shrink wrap on. Next we used heat guns to shrink the wrap to the boat. The bow and stern where a bit of a cobble job with a bunch of tape and some bulges at the ends. I think that with some better planning and maybe some well placed double sided tape on the ends it would have looed a bunch better. One down side to the shrink wrap was having some light wrinkles on the inside of the boat...something that my buddy can live with, and can likely be sanded and a hotcoat put on without an issue
 
Jim here are two of the pics that have the shrink wrap not too great but shows a bit of what the process was
 

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The ends are difficult, I haven't perfected them either !

I will have to play with some of that boat shrink wrap !

Thanks !


Jim
 
It has been a long process since the start of this build. Since I started we had two kids, maybe part of the reason the timeliness has been stretched out so much! I have gotten to the point of "just needing" to build and mount the seats and thwarts. I am going with cane seats and the original plan was to mount the seat on a bracket as i have scuppered gunnels. I am now thinking about hanging the seats...looking for some more insight into pros/cons. Also wondering what people are using for skid plates, the hull is 6oz e glass with a 6 oz s glass football.

So far weight is 49lbs, a bit heavier then I wanted but was also not really looking at trying to cut a ton a weight

Will get pictures posted soon!
 
Hanging seats has been done for ever. That's what I have done on all of mine. Epoxying cleats is a fine way also. You just want to be sure of the location with either method ! Flip a coin !

I like my seats deeper, and contoured. Deeper because you can comfortably shift your weight for and aft to adjust trim. I'm not a fan of cane. Webbing or snow shoe cord would be my choices.

My last composite, I used Dynel, epoxy with graphite mixed in, as a kind of skid plate.. I don't drag my canoes, or run the bow up on shore. So I really don't need a Skid plate. Everyone paddles different !

Glad you made it back to your Build ! Life Does gets in the way !

I helped a guy glass a hull, he had stripped 10 yrs earlier ! After the cracks were filled, it glassed up pretty nice.

Jim
 
Pictures may not look the best but the gunnels are on. I have the lumber sawn for the seats. Going try a laminate seat with cherry and basswood, ala the conk seat, we will see how it goes!
 
fn5Yde3.jpg

Looking very good. The basketball cleverly locates the center of gravity underneath the stern seat, but that can easily be changed.
 


Looking very good. The basketball cleverly locates the center of gravity underneath the stern seat, but that can easily be changed.

I wonder if wrapping a basketball in sandpaper would work for sanding the inside curve?

Alan
 
Glenn- the basketball is actually in the bow of the boat. My 2yo sits in the boat and paddles when it is on the stands and i think there is some bad wood in the sawhorses which is leading to the screws slowly pulling out and making it a bit uneven
 
You are getting close Ben !

Capping the gunnels, and Flotation Chambers ! Good to see it ! Extra work I know, but worth it in my eyes !

I find waiting for Varnish to dry is one of the harder things about building canoes !

Jim
 
Thanks Jim!

I have thinking about using a spray automotive clear coat instead of varnish. The epoxy i use is already uv resistant so I am thinking the the varnish may just be more work for something that I already have...suggestions?
 
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