First build 17' Freedom

[Jim Dodd]

Back to the build, it has been going slowly but surely. I am trying to get a few strips on each day and it seems to be working out. I am wondering when you switch from alternating sides to building up one side past the centerline then cutting that down and building the other one up. And as always something for your viewing pleasure.

Looks great Ben !~
The transition is always a challenge !. Usually, when I've covered the stem forms completely, I switch to stripping one side past center.
It's a not that hard, you might want to play with some scrap strips, to visualize how you will make the transition.

Here is my best pic to help illustrate. Again every canoe is different. I've cut little slivers to fill gaps, in some cases. You will figure it out !

Good luck !

Jim

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

My wife and I have been working on the boat and have made some progress on the build. We have got one of the sides finished and are working on closing up the other side. Hopefully going to get the feature strip on tonight or this weekend.

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

No Title

And as always some eye candy. The last pic is the accent strip. Under the tape is a diamond made out of cherry, which should look food with cherry gunnels

 

[stripperguy]

Looks really nice, great that you and your bride are working on it together! That inset compass point is tres cool.
But....I'm not getting where that feature strip might go. You said the one side is already done? So where's that feature going?

 

[latremorej]

Looks great! I am assuming that you started stripping at the WL, working to the bottom of the canoe
and will put in the feature strip when you finish stripping from the WL to the gunnels next?
Jason

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

Started stripping 4"from the gunnels at the center of the boat, the feature strip will go there and then i will strip towards the gunnels. Will post a side view when the feature strip goes on

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

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So i have made a bit of progress; got the accent strips on and am one small piece away from closing up the football! After that have about 4 or 5 most partial stips to put on the stern and then about 10 for the bow. This thing is staring to look like it will actually float !!!

From the building stand point i am wanting to do a football with 6oz s-glass and have found it as wide as 30in,which seems a bit skimpy to me. Wondering if anyone has any input on glass supplies.

And as always some new pics

 

[stripperguy]

RAKA has good prices and a wide selection of cloth weights, types and widths.
If you think you're enjoying the build now, just wait until it's on the water!!

 

[Alan Gage]

I use 30" s-glass when I do my bottoms with it. It's hard enough to find in 30" widths and even harder (and very expensive) to get it wider. I get 30" widths from US composites. I think Sweet composites can get 50" or 60" s-glass. But unless you're anticipating very rough usage or are using extra thin strips I wouldn't bother with the s-glass. Adding some to the stems isn't a bad idea but the whole bottom is overkill for most boats. Also it won't be as clear as e-glass.

Alan

 

[wysedav]

Your boat is looking great. Those points on the compass are hard to lay down flat!! I used a heat gun to help bend them down. I've been using my boat quite a bit andi think you might want the slide on the rear seat. When I take my daughter out the bow is clear of the water, it'd be nice to be able to slide the seat forward. The other thing is to add extra glass on the inside below the waterline. When I sit down hard in my seat the hull oil cans a little, don't really like it, i might add ribs to help strengthen the floor.

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

Thanks for all the positive comments, i get excited every time i walk past the boat, getting closer and closer to water time! Alan i was looking at us composites for the s-glass. Was thinking since i am using 3/16 thick strips and want to use it as a tripper i figure a bit more beef on the outside would be nice.

Wysedav i was thinking about a heat gun but dont have one so i soaked a towel i water and steamed it with an iron. That tends to work for me building SUPs and surfboards when i need to bent around the nose of the board.

Glass layup was going to be 6oz e glass then 6oz s glass football, on the inside was thinking just 6oz e glass. Do i need more support on the inside?
Wysedav do you have any thwarts or just a yoke?

 

[Cruiser]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for sharing this build with us, my Freedom was completed last year, so I am following along with interest.

Just some food for thought on your glass schedule ... I assume the 3/16" strips were a weight savings move, so a few numbers to give an idea of what the steps potentially cost. I will assume 6 oz E glass inside and out and just what the "extras" cost weight wise. I will also eliminate S glass for the transparency issues noted earlier.

- using 3/16" strips over 1/4" ... saves ~6.5 pounds
- football size 6 oz e glass with resin ~2.9 pounds
- football size 4 oz e glass with resin ~2.2 pounds

It is pretty clear that if you add 6 oz glass inside and out, you pretty well negate the weight savings of using thinner strips. If you use cloth on the football, it should be used on the bias (for max strength) and 4 oz would be thinnest, lightest and easiest of the options to taper into the layup ..... giving near the same strength boost.

Just a few thoughts.

Brian

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

Brain thay is some great insight. I am looking for a light weight boat but worry about the durability issues of a glassing schedule this is not up to par. Would you just forgo the s glass or could it be justified due to increased strength and durability? I love the hard evidence of weights just wish they were more on my side

 

[wysedav]

I think my boat is very light at 32#...but it also flexes more than I like. If I were you I'd make the gunwales heavier than what I did by about a 1/4". I only have one center thwart and the seats which are on cleats so they help as well. I think I have 6oz glass in and out plus another layer below the waterline (in and out). All that said, I love the weigh when getting to the watert!!

 

[Cruiser]

Hi Ben,

My gut feel is that 6 oz E glass inside and out would be the minimum and will likely produce a hull that is solid .... for more strength and added abrasion resistance maybe look at 4 oz E glass applied on the bias to the outside football .... my Freedom has 1/4" strips, 6 oz inside/outside with cherry gunnels/trim and came in at 52#s, which I am happy with for tripping ... remember, this is a 17' boat.

Wysedav .... 32#s, is that a Freedom 17 as well? If so I may go paddle off a waterfall, lol


Brian

 

[wysedav]

Cruiser, I checked my build thread, came in at 40# I think 45-50 would be more reasonable. I think mine is too light.

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

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Wysedav- that is a light boat! I am planning on cherry for the trim too. What were the dimensions of the gunnels? Was thinking about maybe 3/8 in outer and scuppered inner.

Also thinking about pedestal style seats, sliding in the front and likely fixed in the back. Going to try and find a bucket seat from wenonah and make a carbon seat, those look REAL nice!

Oh yea and we are done sanding, got to patch some cracks and then resand and time for fiberglas!!

 

[Jim Dodd]

Gunnel idea.
Cap your gunnels, I glue and screw inwhales, and glue on the outwhales. No screws showing, strong and sealed.
Everything is prefit, and ready for installation, in the top pic. If you don't want to glue on your gunnels, at least coat them with epoxy, let it cure and install.
Prefitting, the inwhales by screwing them on makes it easy, if you choose to glue them on.
Again, no screws showing.
A couple of pics.
Another note. I always make a "Weep Hole", in the deck to allow water to escape, when upside down.

 

[Ben Mahaffey]

Jim that is awesome advice! Planned to cap the gunnels and was thinking about just thinkened epoxy for glue and after reading a post, probably one of yours, the weap hole seems almost mandatory! Was thinking about a light epoxy coat on the boat side of the scuppers (the part of the inwale facing out). Was also thinking about making the inwale one piece and having an arc for the scuppers vs two separate pieces, thoughts/ pros/cons

 

[Jim Dodd]

Hi Ben
One piece inwhales are great ! They would be my preference, but years ago, do to poor routing skills, I screwed up a set, and stayed with adding spacers since. I would say the spacers are more time consuming, but safer for ME .
Book Matching the inwhale, and outwhale is definitely cooler !

Jim