Second canoe

[hautamak]

Bottom nearly done..

2019-09-11_02-40-21 by artturi hautamaki,

should I precoat the hull with epoxy before adding glass? I have read people do it both ways.

 

[Jim Dodd]

How I look at it !

If you have the staple holes filled, any cracks voids or gaps filled ? No seal coat.



In either. case take the time to fill staple holes ! I prefer Elmer's Max ! but any wood glue will work. In my tests Elmer's Max blended in the best !
I dab a little glue on the holes, and press in with my finger, After the first initial sanding !

Dap Plastic Wood works great for any gaps or cracks. It sets fast, and is easy to sand.

If you do the above Skip the seal coat !

If you do decide to seal coat, after it has cured, remove any bits of dust, before laying down the cloth ! These will cause trouble later, when sanding by lifting the glass away from the hull.

Jim

 

[stripperguy]

After rough sanding, wet the hull with water to raise the grain
this will swell the wood and make most of the staple holes close up
as far as a seal coat, I always apply one. If not the wood can suck the cloth partially dry during wet out leaving a permanently occluded laminate.
but some folks like Jim have good experiences without a seal coat

 

[hautamak]

Okay, gotta see whether I'll do sealing or not.
is epoxy mixed with sawdust good for filling gaps?

 

[hautamak]

Hello!

Spring have arrived to Finland! I pulled cover off from canoe and noticed that there was some expanding on particle board, as there were gaps between strips.
Any suggestions how to repair them? Epoxy and sawdust? or wood filler?

2020-04-22_05-56-26 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

 

[Jim Dodd]

There are many ways ! One is best for you !

How long is that gap ?

Tape both sides of the gap, from the top side !

I've been doing some table top epoxy pours, and have found Heating Duct tape, that looks like tin foil, works great on the underside. Makes an excellent barrier.

Apply the duct tape to the bottom side, so epoxy, or glue won't run down the inside.

You can use Epoxy, or wood glue to fill this gap. Mix some epoxy and Cabosil, Silica, and wood flour. Tip the canoe, so the gap is level making sure the epoxy won't run out of the gap, then you apply the mix with a putty knife.

That is one way. Prep with tape the same, Fill the gap with a mixture of wood glue, and fine sanding dust. This will be your better choice. The glue shrinks and may require a second coat.

I notice your strips came from planks that were Finger jointed. I used strips like that, hoping for a cool looking design ! They worked fine, but the finger joint pattern really didn't show, unless you were very close.

Good luck !

More pics Please !

Jim

 

[ppine]

Traditionally canoes used for shallow and rocky rivers like Maine were long and had fairly flat bottoms like the OT guide.
Length gives you speed and flotation. You ride higher in the water with a longer boat. A slightly rounded bottom or flat one is slower than an arched bottom.
I have paddled tandems solo for years. I would think in terms of at least 15 feet for a solo boat. It can be made plenty light, and any beam you want.

 

[ppine]

Okay, gotta see whether I'll do sealing or not.
is epoxy mixed with sawdust good for filling gaps?

Wood flour or sanding dust is best. Sawdust is too coarse. I like this method for many applications. There are some good fillers for use with epoxy, most of them are white and do not look right on a wood canoe. I have repaired gunwales with it. I plan to do some more repairs on my OT after 25 years of use.

 

[hautamak]

It's done! final strip placed and filled gaps with woodglue and sanding dust.

IMG_20200423_133215 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

IMG_20200423_133458 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

IMG_20200423_161128 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

IMG_20200423_161145 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

IMG_20200423_105921 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

 

[hautamak]

There are many ways ! One is best for you !


That is one way. Prep with tape the same, Fill the gap with a mixture of wood glue, and fine sanding dust. This will be your better choice. The glue shrinks and may require a second coat.

I notice your strips came from planks that were Finger jointed. I used strips like that, hoping for a cool looking design ! They worked fine, but the finger joint pattern really didn't show, unless you were very close.

Good luck !

More pics Please !

Jim

Used D3 wood glue, little bit of water and sanding dust.
Yes I bought them already stripped. 6mmx20mm only needed bead and cove. Also, the lenght of those was 6 meters. those was CHEAP. Strips for one canoe , Planned 4 side 6mm x 20mmx 6m ONLY 30€. That was deal.

 

[hautamak]

Quick question, Is it okay to pull staples off when my FG and epoxy don't come until may 7th? Could it wrinkle in those two weeks?

 

[memaquay]

Yes, you can safely pull the staples out right now, and then sand it completely. Mine is sitting completely ready to fiberglassing, just waiting for the weather to warm up.

 

[hautamak]

Okay!

I made staple pullers for me and my wife. We are gonna pull those out tomorrow.
Today I ordered 4oz FG, winter epoxy and topcoat supplies. Shipping is faster than I excepted, only three days, so I'm ready to fiberglassing next week.

IMG_20200424_075807 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

IMG_20200424_083203 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

2020-04-24_12-29-24 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

 

[Jim Dodd]

Pulling staples ?

Just be careful not to leave dents in the wood with those pullers !

It will add a lot more sanding and thinning of the hull.

Good luck ! Hull looks great !

Jim

 

[stripperguy]

I use a similar home made tool for pulling staples, but I ALWAYS use a spare strip under the fulcrum to protect the hull from getting dented.
Great to hear that your wife is part of the building too.

 

[Jim Dodd]

You will probably be done pulling staples, but I'll pass on the staple puller that Nick Schade uses.

They are reasonable and work good ! Maybe your Sweet Heart will pull them all next time

 

[hautamak]

I did not use spare strip under puller. Here is results before and after wetting hull.

Last picture is half of the hull sanded. I used 40 grit paper and ROS. 40 grit because pine is little harder than WRC. thermally modified pine was pain to sand, as thinner growth ring is like ten times more harder..

Tips for sanding inside of tumblehome? (not yet but soon..)


IMG_20200425_101803 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

IMG_20200425_105749 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

2020-04-26_08-05-43 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr

 

[Roybrew]

Love the hull design! Thanks for info and pictures. I'm fixen to pull staples on mine, so your postings are a great help. Excellent work.

 

[hautamak]

Be aware that those dents are for northern pine which is considerably harder than WRC. You do want to use spare strip under puller as stripperguy recommends.
Glad to hear that these helps somebody.

 

[hautamak]

So, temps are up here in Finland and today was glassing day. everything went well, but didn't remember how hard it's glassing alone..

Could I lay cloth other direction when glassing inside? Like this one http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uxKZZ6auzk...0/IMG_1103.jpg

I mean it has 8oz glass outside so I think 4oz will be plenty for inside... Or have those inside and outside layers be same thickness?

It was pain pushing cold epoxy trough 8 oz of glass.... Next time I let temps rise more and use normal epoxy (not the winter one).

IMG_20200504_140237 by artturi hautamaki,
There were spot where hull was off from mold about 1cm. I just nailed it down and after glassing rammed nail trough hull down to mold. it didn't leave very big hole.

IMG_20200504_193929 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr
One layer of 4oz glass

IMG_20200504_200144 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr
Overlapping layers of 4oz glass.

IMG_20200505_142811 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr
After two coats

VID_20200505_100249 by artturi hautamaki, on Flickr <-This one is video, click to play it.

How long first coat takes from you? I did it under minute.. (under two hours)