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Nokomis Build

Managed to seal coat the inside of Nokomis late yesterday.

Seal coating has always been a hot topic, amongst builders. I talk myself out of doing it, and when it comes time to glass the inside, I go back to my OLD ways.
Nokomis required just 22 oz of mixed resin, to seal coat. After it set, with a gloved hand, I go over the hull, and razor blade scrape any irregularities.

Here's a couple pics of the seal coat.
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Jim
 
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Inside glassed.
One regret, is I forgot to apply Peel Ply to the extra reinforcement layer, in the tumblehome area.
A couple of pics.

I used 99 oz of resin on the inside.

Jim
 
Looks great, Jim. You're going to be on the water in no time.

I like, I like. Question, though. Is everyone on this board determined to lap me? Plus the fact that there is more than one build going on in your shop?

We're just trying to keep you motivated. And just a word of warning: I set up forms for another canoe yesterday. ;)

Alan
 
I give Alan about two weeks, and he'll be paddling that little canoe !

In my case I've got flotation chambers, trim, and varnish to go.

Thanks guys !

Jim
 
After I spent the morning working on the wife's house, I started gluing up flotation chambers.

Most builders, especially first timers, don't make them. I thought maybe a reason is because no one has showed them how ?
here's a few pics of how I do it.
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This is my Story stick. It's marked every 2", and is 30" long. The tape holds it in place, while I take measurements.
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I use a simple compass to transfer measurements to my pattern.
I use pink foam, cause I have a bunch, and it's easier to cut and shape than cardboard.
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Here you can see the template, half width.
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Template made. I'm trying to save these, but they are simple to make, and I have thrown a bunch away.

I will trace these on to my stripped up panels tomorrow.
More pics to come.

Jim
 
I put tanks in the first stripper I built, but not this one. My Swift doesn't have tanks either. I can personally do without them.
 
For those still asking about resin, the reasons I only used West System once:

- Crazy mix ratios. The only way to measure would be a digital scale or their own measuring pumps. Which occasionally spurt an air bubble.
- Very amber tint. I prefer something closer to water clear.

Regarding float tanks: looks about right. I've not done a template yet, just measured a couple of key points so that I could do the rough strip layout.
 
Flotation chamber panels ready to glass.
I spent about an hour with a small block plane, and a ROS this afternoon.

Notice how I feathered the edges of the panel, to match the hull.
Now I need to scuff up the hull in the chamber area, cut cloth for both sides. The backside will just get cloth to the tapered edge. The front side cloth will extend about an 1" or more..

Here's a few pics so far.

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Jim
 
Glassed the chambers today.
A few pics.
The first is the back side of the panel, I glass it before flipping and installing in the canoe.

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Finished wetting out the cloth, lowered the temp in the shop, until morning. I will raise temp a little, brush on a fill coat, and lower the temp a little. The chamber is just like a staple hole. I don't want it to outgas.
Feather the edges, and I'll be on to trim.

Jim
 
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On three occasions for me. two on the river, and once helping a friend on a lake. All cedar strippers.
They weren't life threatening, but flotation definitely helped, in recovery and reentry.
A stripper will float without flotation. But a little downward pressure puts it under, and it's a long time before it rises to the surface again. With chambers of approximately a gallon and a half in volume, at each end. It will stay at the top. Making reentry possible.

I guess I liken it to a life jacket for my canoe.

Jim
 
Plan is to make Nokomis "Deckless".
The flotation chambers will help empty the canoe, of water by just pushing the canoe back and forth, rapidly. Hopefully ! Time will tell.

Jim
 
We use flotation in our canoes when on rivers, rarely on lakes, but most of them are composite boat that have flotation tank...
I like the idea of no deck, I think...
 
OK ! I finally was able to return to my neglected Nokomis !
Have the gunnels cut and, and spacers glued to the inwhale for scuppers.

a few picks.

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Fitting time.
 
Jim, do you do anything with the sharp edges on your scuppers? Like round over the ends of the blocks or at the least take the sharp edges off? I would think cutting and gluing blocks on would be time consuming vs just routing a groove in a solid rail.

Deck-less, stemless, outside gunwale-less eventually?
 
Jim, do you do anything with the sharp edges on your scuppers? Like round over the ends of the blocks or at the least take the sharp edges off? I would think cutting and gluing blocks on would be time consuming vs just routing a groove in a solid rail.

Deck-less, stemless, outside gunwale-less eventually?

Yes ! I spend considerable time with a rat tail file. I detest shape edges !

I tried routing scuppers Once, it was a disaster ! And it would still have required a session with a rat tail.

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Jim
 
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