Limited materials, need advice

[Frank]

Frank,

For a first build, i would definitely second Jim in getting a copy of CanoeCraft ... that book was my lifeline for the first build. I read it cover to cover 3 times before I started my first build, I keep it in the shop.

Brian

Brian, my CanoeCraft copy, as well of the plans for the Freedom 17, are here. After all your kind advises, I have a better picture and it is time to plan and do:

1) Calculate the $$ for the spanish cedar (might do the purchase in two halfs)
2) Clean the room for space
3) Built the strong back
4) Prepare the cedar
5) Built a steamer to bend wood for stems
6) and everything that happens from here

All of you guys are very kind, thanks a lot

 

[Jim Dodd]

All sounds like a good plan !

One bit of advise, I'm sure all will agree, is how to sort your lumber.

Obviously you'll machine your own strips. Knots are no fun, but some like the looks. Me I avoid knots !

The grain is the most important thing, to get good strips. Buy only Flat or Slash cut planks ! How to check for sure ? Look at the end grain of the plank that you are going to cut your strips from. It should resemble a arch. This will give you the strongest strip, that will sand evenly.
Below is a pic of how the grain should look on the Plank that you cut your strips from.

Once you get your strongback built, we'll discuss cutting strips. Yes everybody knows I'll promote the "Skilsaw Method" Later !

Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

That's an interesting method, stripperguy. Do you do strip one side at a time strictly for cosmetic reasons (symmetry on the bottom) or do you think there's some advantage, either ease of construction or stronger end product? My only build (so far) I alternated strips. The "football" on the bottom ends up with more of a weaved look.

I'm curious also ! I would be afraid I'd put too much pressure on one side, and I'd have a crocked stem.
I've always alternated up to the footbal, and then striped one side, like Canoecraft.

Jim

 

[wingnut]

Hello Frank, I think you've made a good choice of wood to build with. A quick search mentioned Spanish cedar for boat building in a couple different articles but also mentioned a couple problems to watch out for. One article mentioned that the dust could be an Irritant if breathed so be sure to use a mask. The other thing to deal with could the fuzzy edges after machining. I don't think either problem would be a deal breaker though. You mentioned you might buy the wood at two different times to spread the cost out. No problem, but I would cut and mill all the strips at the same time to try to keep them all the same. Two different set ups might give you two different sized strips. I think I'll third the recommendation to read Canoecraft by Ted Moores before you start your build It's a great source of information to have on hand. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

 

[alsg]

I worked with Spanish cedar on a non-canoe project (rebuilding patio sliders) and it sure did fuzz up during milling. But because the shape had no thin or sharp edges, It was easy enough to sand. For a canoe, I'd be worried about the thin edges of the coves breaking off.

 

[Cruiser]

It may seem like extra work or a waste of wood, but once you figure out how you are going to setup and mill your strips, it would be a good idea to get a shorter length of whatever wood you decide on and just do a practice run and mill some short strips. Think of it as a dry run. This length of batten will have lots of uses around the shop, so they aren't really a waste.

Once you start milling strips (using your selected wood) is not the time to have to "adjust" your setup because it doesn't work as intended. You will be doing some 1200' of cutting for all the strips, you don't want to mess up the longer, selected wood ...


Brian

 

[Sven]

I totally agree with Brian's post about doing a practice run. I always test my settings whenever I run something with a router. You can do a lot of damage in a hurry if you don't!
I am looking forward to reading some more build threads this winter! They help pass the winter months.

 

[Cruiser]

Hi Frank,

I said I would mock up and detail the process I use to skarf boards for making boards in full strip length ... so here it is.

First... make your skarf cuts ... these are 30 degrees, about 2:1 .... these are not structural joints, so anything from 2 to 4 is going to be fine

Next, put the pieces together and make an alignment mark

Since this a mock up ... pretend that we have saturated the cut faces with epoxy, then buttered one face with thickened epoxy. Now place and clamp a couple of outside stringers to one side

Slide the pieces together, till the alignment marks line up

Place a clamp on the other side to lock the relative positions of the 2 pieces

Place a taped (so it doesn't stick) piece and clamp both sides, so the joint edges line up

And last ... put a couple of clamps near the end of the cuts on each side ... do not over tighten these, just till you see a litlle line of epoxy all along the joint is fine. the epoxy will fill any voids

Let stand over night, unclamp and cleanup joint with a carbide scraper .... you are ready to cut strips.

Brian

 

[Frank]

That is very nice, thanks a lot Brian

 

[Jim Dodd]

I thought I'd throw in a few pics of favorite tools.

Note on the staple guns ! Several layers of tape to leave the staple slightly above the surface of the hull. This prevents bruising, and saves a ton of sandiong !!! Also the Blue tape designates the short 1/4" staples, used between the forms. Lastly mark the center of the stapler. If you look very closely you can see it ! This helps center the staple on the strip !

The clamp squeezes the bottle for these tired Old hands ! Note the Pencil tip on the bottle.

Shinto Saw rasp, and Bostitch staple puller.

Jim

 

[Frank]

Which bit should I get? Rocker 1/8, kempston, yonico or which one do you recommend?

 

[Jim Dodd]

Which bit should I get? Rocker 1/8, kempston, yonico or which one do you recommend?

Router ?

For Bead and Cove on Cedar, the cheapest carbide works fine ! I just finished machining strips with my original cheap bits.
They have bead and coved enough strips for at least 30+ canoes !
1/8" radius will machine 1/4" strips. Some suppliers make it confusing !
Just look for "Canoe bits"

Jim