Length considerations for a canoe axe: function and safety

[Philtrum]

... And Beard Oil
http://www.prospectorco.com/products/burroughs-beard-oil

"[T]he oils also help to moisturize surface skin and condition follicles."

I'm glad I didn't have a mouthful of coffee when I read that.

I've worn my face hair long for over 40 years without a speck of facial dandruff. And my follicles have never appeared anything less than perfectly fit. But ... maybe the makers of this stuff know something Nature doesn't?

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I have absolutely no use for a double bit hatchet but.... I now want one.

And that's on you, Robin

The double bit axe is what I had as a boy in Maine before my grandfather locked it away. The idea, for those who don't know, is that each bit is profiled differently. One bit is profiled sharper to fell trees. The other bit is profiled thicker to hit at roots and for splitting. Because double bit axes have almost perfect side-to-side balance, they won't wobble in the air during a swing.

Shorter double bit axes with 2.5 lb. heads and 26"-28" handles were often called "cruiser" axes because they were carried by timber cruisers.

Nessmuk popularized the dual profile double bit hatchet as part of his famous "Nessmuk trio" of cutting tools that he carried on his legendary Adirondack canoe trips in Rushton pack canoes. .

Here's Dave Canterbury, a well-known bushcraft and survival school instructor, demonstrating double bit axes and explaining their virtues and vices.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Just for funsies I thought I look at what it would cost to have Best Made outfit me as a Lumbersexual.

Flannel shirt, $142
http://www.bestmadeco.com/collections/clothing/products/flannel-pullover

Pants, $160
http://www.bestmadeco.com/collections/clothing/products/the-bedford-cord-natural

Wool field coat, $475
http://www.bestmadeco.com/collections/clothing/products/melton-wool-field-coat

Knit cap, $58
http://www.bestmadeco.com/collections/accessories-and-badges/products/red-cap-of-courage

Felling axe, $350
http://www.bestmadeco.com/collections/axes/products/challis

$1200. And I still need socks, boots and a sleeve of tattoos. And Beard Oil
http://www.prospectorco.com/products/burroughs-beard-oil

You forgot the $110 axe case (rumored to be made by OM) to protect your $350 axe.

The beard oil might work to protect the axe handle and head from accidental droppings of beluga caviar.

 

[Canotrouge]

If you have a chance, watch this series of videos, here is part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbhPIK-oBvA
They use axe for every thing, and they use it really well to. one type, shortish handle, smallish head, use it to split, carve, limb, build cabins, build traps, build canoes( you will see when they show the adze, side adze, the are made from the same axe....)

Anyway, I thought it might interest people, it is a great series of movies, I saw it a few years back but it was the short version, this on e is like the "uncut" edition...

Cheers

 

[Holmes375]

Just watched part 1 - fascinating look inside the lives of real bushcrafters. Looking forward to watching the rest of the segments over the next few days.

Thank you for posting the link to this wonderful documentary.

 

[Guest]

Here's Dave Canterbury, a well-known bushcraft and survival school instructor, demonstrating double bit axes and explaining their virtues and vices.

Canterbury brings up some interesting points about the potential dangers of using a double bit axe. Aside from a few minutes at the woodpile with the refurbished Michigan double bit I have never used one, but suspected that a double bit design presented inherent dangers.

I could envision being extra careful on the backswing, and perhaps when carrying the axe unsheathed, but the most dangerous part seems to be something that I often do when using an axe; when I need to set the axe down I usually sink the blade in the chopping block or piece of wood rather than rest the head on the ground. I hadn’t considered that such action leave one blade exposed like a stationary guillotine.

I’ll never hear Roger Waters scream in “Careful with that axe, Eugene” the same way again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMpGdG27K9o

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

The three axes in Council Tool's Velvicut line: Bad Axe Boys Axe, American Felling Axe, Hudson Bay Axe:

Full shot of the Boys Axe, which I ordered for $98 and am awaiting:

 

[HOOP]

Full shot of the Boys Axe, which I ordered for $98 and am awaiting:

Looks like a fine choice Glenn. You have me thinking I want one now, to add to my collection of 8 or so axes. I will have many fine axes to give to youngsters and friends when I expire, or just before Unlike others, I actually like the black forge finish on my axes, so I think I would work on applying a deep dark patina to that shiny metal!

Those handles look very pale, which makes me think they are thirsty for oil. I know the new GB's, although oiled at the factory, arrive very dry and in need of more oil, which they soak up readily (boiled linseed oil). Never hurts to apply another coating when you get it. Winter with the low humidity is the best time to treat axe handles with oil, when the handles are at their driest.

Note: I assume you know this, but just in case and for the record, NEVER place a used rag of linseed oil in the house or garage. It can spontaneously combust. I burn rags of linseed oil in my wood stove, or store them in a tub of water outside until I can dispose of them by drying on the lawn or driveway away from anything combustible, and then burn them when convenient.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Looks like a fine choice Glenn. You have me thinking I want one now, to add to my collection of 8 or so axes. I will have many fine axes to give to youngsters and friends when I expire, or just before Unlike others, I actually like the black forge finish on my axes, so I think I would work on applying a deep dark patina to that shiny metal!

Those handles look very pale, which makes me think they are thirsty for oil. I know the new GB's, although oiled at the factory, arrive very dry and in need of more oil, which they soak up readily (boiled linseed oil). Never hurts to apply another coating when you get it. Winter with the low humidity is the best time to treat axe handles with oil, when the handles are at their driest.

Note: I assume you know this, but just in case and for the record, NEVER place a used rag of linseed oil in the house or garage. It can spontaneously combust. I burn rags of linseed oil in my wood stove, or store them in a tub of water outside until I can dispose of them by drying on the lawn or driveway away from anything combustible, and then burn them when convenient.

The CT Boy's Axe head is a little heavier than your GB SFA and it's a different steel.

The Velvicut handles come unfinished except for a coat of BLO. I have BLO and Watco, which I use on paddles and gunwales, but I kind of like what this guy did with his GB axe handle.

He stained it and used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil gun stock finish. And of course he polished the head just the way Paul Bunyan liked it.

Thanks for all your good advice, informational videos and encouragement, Hoop.

 

[Rippy]

Good reminder Hoop about the linseed oil rags and spontaneous combustion.

 

[Guest]

I kind of like what this guy did with his GB axe handle.

He stained it and used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil gun stock finish. And of course he polished the head just the way Paul Bunyan liked it.

Once I finish seating the handle on the new (old) Boys axe in the shop I am pondering what finish to put on. It is a waxed handle so I will need to take off the wax first (0000 steel wool?).

I have boiled linseed oil, but I’m thinking of using the DIY oil mix I use for wood gunwales, which is 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine and 1/3 varnish. I really like the look and feel of that DIY oil mix on gunwales. It has a nice feel in hand and I use it on paddle grips as well.

 

[Rippy]

Mike, since you brought up DIY oil mixes I'll share mine. For finer grained woods like maple I mix 1/2 linseed oil with 1/2 gum turpentine and it soaks in much easier. I prefer many light coats. If I use strait linseed oil I wipe off the excess each time so it doesn't get gummy. Dave

 

[Canotrouge]

I've used the same 3/3 mix that MM described with really good result, kind of a classic wood furniture finish. I change the turpentine with mineral spirit, not as stinky.

But I want to try Tru-Oil gun stock finish, I hear great things about it!!

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Though BLO seems to be the traditional treatment for axe handles, I've never like it much. It takes a long time to dry, it's not waterproof and it's subject to mold. It also may turn light wood slightly yellow.

Tung oil is also used on axe handles, but most things sold as "tung oil" are not pure tung oil but rather a mixture. Beware.

I read that neither BLO nor pure tung oil dries "hard". If you want a water and environmental protection shell on your axe handle, you probably have to put a wax over the BLO or tung.

I suppose if I had BLO, turpentine and varnish laying around, I might try the 3X3 mixture, but I wouldn't buy them just to do that for one measly axe handle. Watco is already a mixture of linseed oil, varnish, solvents and driers. I'd just use that. It dries hard.

The Tru-Oil, which you can get in a small $5 bottle, is linseed oil, some other proprietary oils and mineral spirits. I don't know if it has varnish in it, but it supposedly dries with a hard and protective coating. You can polish it to a high sheen with steel wool. That's personal preference.

If I keep my axe, I'll probably try the Tru-Oil because I don't like the color of the Walnut stain Watco I have, I don't care for BLO, and I have no use for turpentine. Depending on what color wood the axe handle is, I'd also consider staining it dark. Light wood is too Scandinavian, too metrosexual, too wimpy. I was traumatized by the horror of "Danish furniture" in the 1950's and have never recovered.

 

[Guest]

I suppose if I had BLO, turpentine and varnish laying around, I might try the 3X3 mixture, but I wouldn't buy them just to do that for one measly axe handle. Watco is already a mixture of linseed oil, varnish, solvents and driers. I'd just use that. It dries hard.

I usually have those three in the shop. The varnish part is usually old varnish. I have put a hockey puck of varnish in a can with turpentine and boiled linseed oil and it dissolved over time into the mix.

The “mix” has become more enriched over time. I have added some old Watco as well as some lemon oil, and in preparing to oil the new handle added the last of some walnut oil.

I don't care for BLO, and I have no use for turpentine.

Turpentine is stinky stuff, the odor is pervasive enough that I run the exhaust fan when using it. I add a little extra turps to the initial coats of the (mostly) 3X3 oil; a little heavier on the turpentine seems to soak in better.

 

[memaquay]

Got my new axe today. I really loved my short handled oxhead, so I ordered a different model with a slightly different head. It's a 1002 model, often used as a finishing axe in log building. The blade is quite thin, and is six inches wide. The overall length of the head is 8 inches, and it is advertised as weighing 3 lbs. The handle is advertised at 28 inches, but measures about 27.25 from the top of the axe head to the furthest point of the handle.



I compared it to my other oxhead, and although very similar, it is pleasantly bigger.



I ordered a sheath for it too, and although it is fairly sturdy, it does not compare to the functional work of art that Oldie made for me.



I was very happy when Oldie's cover fit nicely on this axe, despite the larger head. It will live there now, and the new one will go on my old axe.



My general impressions are mixed at this point. The handle is not great, the grain is substandard. I will do some sanding on it and oil it up. The handle is less robust than my shorter axe, which is better, I should be able to choke up on it one handed quite a bit better. It was sharp as a razor, I have a feeling the fellow I bought it from, a log builder, put an edge on it before he mailed it. Hope to try it out this weekend.

 

[Rippy]

Congrats on your new Ox-Head Mem. Use it in good health.

 

[Canotrouge]

Ha the Iltis Ox-head, I never owned one, but a lot of my friend do and they love them. We are good friend with a couple that spend there life in the bush, they raised there 2 kids on a trapline here in the Yukon, and that is the axe they use!! I might get myself one of these!!
Cheers

 

[Canotrouge]

I would like to find one of these!! http://static.gedore.net/module/objproduct_data/uploaddata/normal/1591045.jpg

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Congrats on that Ochsenkopf. German. I was looking at them and even watched a couple of videos about them. Are you sure you don't have the 1027 model, as the 1002 is advertised as having a 35" handle.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Wood-Axes-by-Iltis-Oxhead-of-Germany/products/530/