Length considerations for a canoe axe: function and safety

[Glenn MacGrady]

Terminology is confused between "hatchet" and "hand axe". I will call everything an axe.

Safety claims are also confused. Some say short axes (okay, hatchets) are safer than long axes; other say the exact opposite.

I want to focus on axes in three commonly available lengths for recreational canoe tripping and camping and only for those limited purposes (not household use): ~15", ~20", ~25". Axes in the 25" range generally have heavier heads than those in the 20" range, but you can find them also with about the same weight heads -- for example, the Wetterlings 24" Fine Forest Axe and the GB 19" Small Forest Axe.

Assume a person fairly unfamiliar with axes but who is careful in the outdoors. Average height, hands and strength. He will never become expert or perhaps even average with the axe because he won't use it enough.

I'd be interested in opinions and recommendations (and even facts) on these three lengths of axes (15", 20", 25") in terms of both function and safety for this kind of person for canoe tripping and camping.

 

[DuctTape]

IMO safety is a result of function. When one uses a tool designed for one function in a different manner, safety may be compromised. Thus, handle length and head weight should be decided based on the individual's intended use. The right tool for the job mantra. The safest tool is the one used as it was designed. For my use, the safest is a small hatchet. I don't try to use it as a felling axe, etc... it wasn't designed for that.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

IMO safety is a result of function. When one uses a tool designed for one function in a different manner, safety may be compromised. Thus, handle length and head weight should be decided based on the individual's intended use. The right tool for the job mantra. The safest tool is the one used as it was designed. For my use, the safest is a small hatchet. I don't try to use it as a felling axe, etc... it wasn't designed for that.

Fair enough.

I stated the use was recreational canoe tripping and camping. More specifically, the use would be primarily processing firewood from downed logs and smaller diameter standing dead trees--nothing bigger than 8" diameter and usually smaller. Lopping branches off these trees and logs. Splitting and re-splitting those kind of logs for kindling. Perhaps some occasional brush clearing to get a canoe through a congested trail. Carving stakes and tarp poles. No felling of live trees other than saplings.

There are people who advocate splitting 6"-8" logs with all three of these length axes. They cite both functionality and safety reasons. I have no informed personal experience, and find these differing claims confusing.

 

[oldie moldy]

Well Glenn, I've got to tell you, I regard you as a pretty much a hopeless case as far as axes go. I'll give my take on your question for some unknown reader who may be interested.
Handle length as regards safety; all axes and hatchets swing through an arc. When the swing is done badly the arc can intersect some part of your body. With a longer handle the chance increases that the head will hit something other than your flesh, shorter handle increases the odds of hitting you. To extend the idea, consider if you chopped with a seven foot handle, you'd never cut yourself.

Curiously enough that's the reason people find it relatively easy to shoot themselves with a pistol and much less so with a long gun.

"He will never become expert or perhaps even average with the axe because he won't use it enough." If somebody actually had this mind set he has no business fooling with edged tools. An axe is a grown up tool, it can inflict horrendous wounds in the blink of an eye. That said, how to use an axe competently and safely isn't all that hard to learn but it does require some thoughtful effort. And you dang sure don't want to think you can B.S. along using an axe.

As far as instruction, I'm really impressed with "Bushcraft: Outdoor skills and Wilderness Survival by Mors Kochanski .
What axe will fit your Mister Hypothetical Average? There ain't no such critter. For a real person? Read about the various axes and pick one. I would limit the head to two pounds or less, but that's just me. What ever you get it won't be the last axe you buy, it might not be the perfect axe but it won't be too far wrong.

I'd really, no kidding, learn how to sharpen your axe and fit it with a good sheath.

Best Wishes, Rob

 

[Canotrouge]

I think that around 24" is the most practical/safe. but I carried much shorter, and if you are careful, and kneel down wile splitting, you will be fine, it has a lot to do with common sens. the ones I use to carry all the time are both around 19", a Fiskars X11 splitting axe and a small Wetterling forget axe. and never got any problem, but like I said you need to use your head so you don't end up with your axe in your leg.

But now I carry mostly a 25" axe that have an overall weight of 3.5 lbs. not to bad for weight but can process wood much faster with less energy.

Cheers

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Aside from your typically snarky and smug unnecessary personal comments, OM, do you actually have an opinion on the length question for the intended usage? You may assume the person will employ "thoughtful effort."

 

[memaquay]

One of the main uses for an axe on canoe trips is splitting wood. If one is to split wood in the usual method, a long handle is called for. I usually cook over fires, and often have to split a lot of wood. I really like my oxhead as a multi-purpose axe. However, the handle is too short. Because of the short handle, I frequently spilt firewood on my knees. If you are going to tap-split small wood, handle length is not that important. However, because I usually have a chainsaw, the wood I end up splitting is pretty big, and needs a regular swing for splitting. Plus, if you do have to actually chop a tree in half on a trail, you will quickly understand the benefits of a long handle. These full sized axes are usually around 35 inches, too big for many weight conscious folks, but a good tool you have in my neck of the woods.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I do understand swing arc. But if I'm standing and miss, all three lengths I'm discussing (15, 20, 25) will hit me--just in different spots. Therefore, it confuses me as to which length is "more" dangerous. I could kneel with any of these lengths for tap splitting, which probably minimizes the safety issue but raises the functionality issue. Would a 25" handle be too klutzy for kneeling?

I would also probably choose a head in the 1.4 to 2.0 pound range because of portage weight considerations. Again, I won't be using this axe at home to split big logs for firewood. I don't use firewood at home. I may practice with it if I own it. I have 11 acres of woods.

I'd also like to emphasize what I thought would be obvious. There is a universe of competent axe users in this world, whose skills vary across the spectrum of competency. Just as in paddling, some people's skills are below average, average, above average or expert. I don't think it's useful advice to the below average paddler to tell him not to paddle. Even a below average paddler has sufficient competency to use a canoe without injuring or killing himself.

 

[DuctTape]

My comment wasn't aimed at general use, but the specific way it is used. Processing wood can take many different forms as mentioned by others. It depends on what sized wood and how one intends to process it. I never have the need to split large logs, I don't swing the hatchet even kneeling. The blade is placed on the wood and both move together. This eliminates the arc swing problem. The specific use is important. Change the question to refer to canoe length; the specifics of use matter greatly and there is a reason so many handle lengths (and canoe designs) exist.

 

[oldie moldy]

I don't know how to type a "Bronx Raspberry" Glenn, just imagine it right here (............................................)

The whole idea when you're learning to chop is that you control where the head is going. The larger, heavier the head the more difficult it is to control. You practice with a lighter head and when your skills pick up, then maybe you might want to consider getting a heaver head but probably not. The only reason I've ever wished for more mass in my axe head was when I was doing a lot of chopping and wanted the work to go quicker. But all the time in the back of my mind is the idea that if I miss my stroke, that's a terrible amount of inertia propelling that axe head.
So...pick the weight of your intended axe head and see what length of handle the manufacturer has chosen for that head. For that head it will be the right length.

For anyone interested in getting an axe, I'd encourage doing plenty of internet research. Read how the people who make the axe describe it's intended use. Read the various reviews. If you're still confused then look at the span of axes offered; pick one in the middle. Pick one of good quality, not the cheapest offered.

When you receive your axe be prepared to go slow and make steady progress learning. It really doesn't matter if it takes you many "extra" chops to make you cut, were they where you wanted them to go, that is what is important.

Now, about handle length: picking an axe by handle length is like picking a wife by her bra size. There are other considerations you ought to think about. Oh, I suppose if you're in Junior High that might be the only idea you can hold in your noodle.

Best Wishes, Rob

 

[HOOP]

I do understand swing arc. But if I'm standing and miss, all three lengths I'm discussing (15, 20, 25) will hit me--just in different spots.

No! There is another way. (BTW, I am happy your are exploring these axe topics, Glenn! I sense a latent desire to maybe start using an axe.....maybe....? )

Proper axe technique always has the axe NOT going into your body if the axe head keeps going. The shorter the handle, the more difficult this is to achieve. Its hard to describe in a text box, but the axe should always follow through into the ground, when standing. If doing something like de-limbing one handed, the swing is always away from you (think knife carving away from one's body - similar with one handed delimbing). When standing bend your knees to make a stance with an appropriate height, and configure the arc to go into the ground. You can practice this in slow motion when you are practicing. In fact that's how I teach axe skills, is using alot of very slow motion exercises. Sort of looks like ti chi! Heck it is axe ti chi!

The shape of the arc is all-important. You control that with both your stance, and how you bend your arms and also the wrists. The wrists have alot to do with the shape of the arc. There are other techniques such as using anvil logs for both end splitting and side splitting. I do not recomend one handed side cutting of poles like you see me do in some of my videos. It took me years of practice with one handed technqiue before I attempted that one handed cross cutting method, and I still am not competent with that technique which has serious consequences if you get it wrong, so I go very slowly and less powerful with that method. Stick with the basics for now is my rec'n.

For beginners, I would teach technique for ground cutting skills as the first priority, never upright delimbing which has more hard to control arcs. When practicing ground cutting technique, the arc of the swing can always be made to go into the ground (or anvil/safety log), well away from your feet. Axes also bounce out of the cut, and so part of what I teach in axe safety is hand control of the handle for the inevitable bounce, but that's another whole topic.

For kids and beginners the universal mantra I teach, and how I was taught, is to "use a longer handle", stay away from hatchets. The 28 inch handle is the all-round best I find for starting folks with. I started using axes when I was 11 years old at canoe camp, and the instructors all made sure we used 28 inch handled, 2.5 pound axes, and kept us way, way far away from any hatchets. If you can find a reasonably light axe head of 2.5 lb's in a 28 inch handle, then you have a good reach to practice safe arcs that do not go into your body, and its light enough for one handed technique such as various splitting edge setting before you switch to 2-handed tap splitting. You may also want to carve with an axe (like maybe a paddle! ha ha ), and carving usually requires one-handed techque, so keeping the weight under 2.5 lbs for the axe head is what I recomend. This length of handle also gives you serious power for big splitting jobs like Memaquay mentions.

A few years ago I downsized to a 25 inch handle (GB Scandi Forest Axe), because I am getting older and wanted to cut weight on the axe head. I have over 40 years experience with bush axes, so I was ready! It still provides enough power as I need for my cutting and splitting needs in the boreal forest, and I save about a half pound or so on weight. That little bit of weight reduction also significantly improves my one handed technique. One handed de-limbing (think about holding a "porcupine" pole up at one end, and with one hand cutting all the branches off with short snappy swings away from your body, under control). At home splitting bigger and harder wood for the woodstove, I am still using larger heavier axes. But for the bush, I love the 25 inch handle and lighter axe head. Its very safe for me too.

I am a small guy, only 5'4" and 150 lbs. Most guys are much bigger than me and if you are bigger than me, you should have no trouble with a 28 inch handle and 2.5 lb type axe head. The shortest I would ever recommend for canoeing is the 25" or 24" type axe at 2 to 2.25 lb head like I am using now on my trips. For backpacking where every gram counts, I do bring my 19 inch GB Small Forest axe, but I have the confidence and skills to use it, and significantly alter all my swings to new arcs. I would not start a beginner with a 19 inch axe.

That's my 2 cents Glenn.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I appreciate all the comments so far, even 98% of OM's.

I'd be surprised if there are many people who do more internet research than me on subjects that interest me, given that I'm an unemployed researcher by trade. That's why I post so many links, pictures and videos.

I'd also like to repeat what I said in another thread: My reading of bushcraft, machete and knife sites over the past few years, and viewing videos, has increased my curiosity and interest in these subjects. I would like to increase some of my skills such as fire starting in difficult conditions. That involves a certain amount of increased wood processing skills and practice, including batoning and feathersticking. I also need some additional basic tools. That's why I've been spending so much time and money on fixed blade knives, and even axes have caught my attention (very slightly).

I am familiar with the idea of keeping my body out of the way of a swing arc. I used an axe frequently as a boy in Maine, until my traumatized grandfather locked the axe away after my uncle severed his calf.

In addition, I've been a machete user for several years, although I'm probably of below average competence compared to every 8 year old kid in El Salvador. To me, the machete is a more effective and safer tool for limbing branches than an axe. I'm not going to miss with a 14" blade even at very high swing velocities. I certainly might miss with a 4" axe head, and hence would tend to keep my velocity relatively low. The machete is also superior for bushwacking through brush. But it's not a very good splitter for bigger logs unless heavily batoned.

But the axe length issue regarding safety is murky and muddy to me. In boy scouts, they let us use hatchets but not axes for supposed safety reasons. Hoop says 28" is safer than 19". Here's what Old Jimbo says this on his site:

"A full sized axe has a handle length of around 36" . . . . If you hold such an axe properly, it can never hit your feet or body if you miss what you are chopping.

"There are a lot of 28" handled axes around - but these are the most deadly axes of all for the inexperienced user - especially for splitting wood! The weight of the head and sharpness makes them so.

"The person new to axes is always advised to get a full sized axe for safety reasons."

But then he immediately segues into a discussion of the camp and bushcraft axes, and quotes Mors Kochanski for the proposition that 21"-23" is the best length for those purposes.

So, internet research often reveals not much more than contradictory opinions.

If I buy an axe, it will be the last one I buy. I'm past the point of gearslutmania. Mostly.

 

[Iskweo]

OK...it appears that we are mixing apples and apples here. The full sized 36"handled stuff is for splitting of cord wood. Pretty much exclusively. The shorter stuff is what Glenn was asking about....mostly gerneral purpose axes. 24-28 inches long with a 2.5 lb head seems ideal. Reprofile the dang thing yourself. Eh voila.
Now, all of this made me go root around looking for my axe in several places and I can only go by memory as I cant find it currently. Using scientific methods, like placing a tape measure in the front of a canoe and estimating the height that I remember the handle sticks up, we figure it to be around 25". Its red. Says Sweden on it but that is not necessarily true in this day and age. Sweden could refer to a village in India for all I know.

I AM your test subject. Average in every way. I use an axe only rarely. I know how, but I am not overly inclined to do that much work. My axe is good for me. I find it comfortable. You know how a $100 paddle is tons better than a $20 paddle? I wonder if it may not be the same for axes? I cant remember but I think I found mine somewhere. It could be nice or it could be a piece of crap. I did sharpen the rock chips ( GASP!!!!) out of it last year with a file and didnt cut myself so I claim semi professional status in axe maintenance.

I will venture my two cents worth that a machete is likely a lot more useful than a hatchet. Probably safer too, at least in my hands. But since I wont carry both, my axe is the winner there. Limbing, felling, chopping, splitting, grinding coffee,pickerel pounding, and looking really cool in pictures are some of my favourite uses for it. I lust after a leather sheath and an axe pocket on the side of my pack. Perhaps that is the best use for my axe...just making me feel right.

Christy

 

[Seeker]

Calvin Rutstrum was dead-set against letting inexperienced folks use what was called a "boys axe", or one less than a full 30-32" handle. He ran youth camps, and couldn't understand the logic of "a smaller axe is less dangerous."

Axes and hatchets are for two different things... Boys axes might be able to do both tasks, but it's going to be a tradeoff, and one won't do everything well. I'll explain it all as I see it, and maybe you'll get a useful answer in the end.

An axe is generally either for felling trees or splitting larger log cutoffs for firewood.

A hatchet is for splitting smaller/thinner pieces into firewood, for splitting larger firewood chunks into smaller kindling, or camp chores (e.g. game prep, tent pegs/poles).

The boys axe in a 17"-25" range is an attempt to merge both functions, and generally does so poorly, imho... Either one needs to fell trees and split large logs, or one doesn't. If you don't, then you are probably looking to split smaller wood for fires. If the latter case, the hatchet is perfect.

If you have little/no experience with a chopping tool of either sort, I would definitely stay away from the longer tools... Either you can hit your target every time, exactly where you need to,or you can't. If you can't, the risk of hitting yourself, or landing a glancing blow that then hits you, is too great, and the consequences of such an accident in the woods, especially alone, are pretty serious. This applies to both the full sized axes (which I believe to be less dangerous) and the "boys axes" (which I side with Rutstrum on in calling more dangerous.)

I would recommend two things. First, a series of hands-on sessions with a competent axe/hatchet owner/user. Second, a good-quality hatchet about 14"-15" long. You can saw downed hardwood into 12" or so lengths, and easily (and safely) split them with a hatchet. If you do this while standing at a chopping block/stump, or while kneeling and working closer to the ground, you'll be ok. The preferred method I'd like to see you adopt for such splitting is to insert the edge of the hatchet into a pre-existing check/crack in a piece of seasoned hardwood, give it a smart rap on the chopping block, have the head stick into the block just a little, and then simply push sideways on the stick to crack it the rest of the way in half, using the hatchet head as a wedge/pry. I have processed an 8" thick maple log 12' long in about three hours like this, leaving me with cooking and fire wood for about 5 days.

My own personal preferences for canoe trips is a 19" Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe, but I have been using chopping tools since childhood. My next preference would be for a Hudson Bay style Norlund 1.5lb "Tomahawk" about 14" long. After that, I'd move up to a 24" Norlund (similar head shape, but 2.5lbs). I never find much utility for a larger axe outside my parents woodpile... I carry a folding bucksaw as well... the hatchet and saw go together, for me... it's not "either/or". On backpacking trips (seldom taken these days), I prefer a folding saw (I have a Fiskars and a Bahco Laplander) paired with the Norlund Tomahawk.

So, in summary, get a hatchet with a wooden handle, a quality steel head, and a good mask... Learn to sharpen it, and keep it sharp.

 

[Canotrouge]

If you follow what Seeker have written, you will be a happy camper!! Like Hoop and Seeker, I've used axe since child hood, I think my dad had me doing kindling for the house when I was 8 years old, a lot of kindling... I'm 43 now and I've used an axe for hundreds of hours, I split all our fire wood with an axe, that is 6 to 7 cords(full cords) a year. I carve with an axe, I skin moose with an axe, set up camp with an axe, throw axes... All that to say the more time you spend using an axe and the more time you spend with people that know how to use an axe the better you will become at using an axe. And like every edge tool, a sharp tool is safer than a dull tool.

I'm the opposite of Hoop in term of body size, I'm 6'2" and 225lbs. I have almost a 6.5 feet arm span... A bit like kin-king
Cheers

 

[Philtrum]

My, my, what a lot of controversy! I'll add a bit more based on long experience.

My dad taught me to split wood when I was a kid, maybe 8-10 years old. He said a full-size axe was for chopping, not splitting. Using a long-handled axe to split with, if the axe head didn't hit dead on and go well into the wood it could glance off sideways and do something unpredictable. I discovered he was right, luckily without serious injury.

Dad preferred to use a mid-length axe (he called it a mare's leg, not to be confused with a sawed-off shotgun) for splitting, but he also used a hatchet. His method was to embed the axe head into the wood far enough so it would bind, and then lift the wood and bring it down smartly, causing the axe head to go farther into the wood. That's the way I've always done it, even with a full-length axe handle. It's far safer than trying to split with a full swing stroke. You just keep lifting the wood (using the axe handle) and driving it back down onto the ground or a stump.

If you must use a full-length cutting axe to split with, choke up on it so you have more control. And if you have a genuine splitting axe ... choke up on it. Don't try to split on a single stroke unless your legs are behind an axe-proof barrier.

 

[Canotrouge]

Just some thing to consider, the large splitting axe from Gränsfors( the one I use for all my splitting at home) has a 27 1/4" handle. And it work beautifully for me...

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

After that, I'd move up to a 24" Norlund (similar head shape, but 2.5lbs).

Like THIS? Maybe I'll buy it. I love the picture on the sheath. Aesthetics are even more important than function to me in most things.

So, in summary, get a hatchet

I think you've correctly read my needs and made a logical recommendation. I've thought about hatchets for years, but just can't convince myself, after viewing many videos, that a one-handed short hatchet can chop or split wood significantly better than my Condor golok machete, which I'm sure is much safer. A two-handed axe, yes, can out chop the machete. But the machete is better for brush and small limbing.

Here is my machete chopping a tree (which I would saw with my Bahco Laplander), tap splitting, side splitting, small branch limbing, and free swinging in brush.

I'd grant a hatchet in experienced hands can split wood faster than the machete, but I can't convince myself the difference is significant for my needs. I don't need that much split wood for a single person on a few trips a year.

I'm thinking in the 25" range for the axe. I like concept of the Wetterlings Forester's Fine Axe or that heavier Norlund on Ebay.

 

[memaquay]

I'm sticking by a long handled axe (32 inches or more) for splitting. If you have a deflection with it, or miss the target, or anyone of the many things that can happen when splitting, it is more likely to avoid contact. Up until this year, I have split five full cords a year using an axe. there's no way you will get through that tap splitting, you have to use full-on swings, and when you get good, you can move pretty darn fast through a bunch of wood. My wife bought me a little electric spiltter this year, and although it made the process much easier, it wasn't as fast as the usual splitting.

If you us a short or medium length handle to split in the traditional style, at some point you will get unlucky. An axe with a long handle will dive into the ground if you miss or bounce. An axe with a short handle will continue on it's path and often stop moving in your leg, usually your lower leg or foot.

I take four axes on school trips with me, 3 big ones and my oxhead. Kids that I determine to be sketchy with axe use become kindling makers, and they use the oxhead. But then again, kids up here, particularly the First Nations kids that come with me, have been splitting wood their whole lives. Very little instruction is needed for most of them.

 

[oldie moldy]

Hi Glenn, I bought that Wetterlings Forester's axe, did a review of it with pictures. Note the photo with the axe head on my hand, I wear size medium gloves. Since I did that write up I've used it a good bit more and like it better than I did.
It's my "almost axe" almost an axe and almost an hatchet. In use it feels "mincing" compared to a regular axe.
In your investigations of things Bushcrafty, you might like being able to snug up on the head to carve with the axe head. Very controlable. Only thing is keep the handle free from being bumped with anything as it will throw off the head and the cut.

I think the Wetterlings line is over priced compared with Husqavarna offerings. I see that Husqavarna has new line of fiberglass modern axes, I find them ugly but they probably will work. Require less care.

As far as which tool works "faster" than another, I'd have to say that's just about the last consideration I'd measure any tool by. "Faster" is a worry for the poor rats in the "rat race"!

Best Wishes, Rob

ps: was re-reading Mor's book last night, best money I ever spent!