Knife build / canoetripping.net fund raiser thread.

[Rippy]

Another way to look at might be do I want to purchase more chances, if you are interested in raising your chances of winning. As of 12/28/15 a total of 37 people have donated. Robin is very grateful for the funds donated so far. With only 37 in the raffle the chances of winning are pretty good compared to other contests.

 

[Mihun09]

I think I donated after that date, so add one. Mind you, I opted out of the raffle and gave Christy my chances.

 

[Rippy]

Of the 37 I mentioned, 2 had also opted out leaving 35 in the contest.

 

[Rippy]

A few more pictures will be posted tomorrow morning.

 

[Alan Gage]

I'm a tad hungover today, but rejoicing in the fact that I'm taking a month long hiatus from Bud Lite and any of it's evil relatives, and I'm also quitting smoking today.

That's pretty exciting. I think you need to start building a canoe. You're going to need a project to keep your mind occupied. I can send you plans for a Fat b*st*rd; although perhaps that name won't be so fitting anymore.

Best of luck.

Alan

 

[Rippy]

. I'm a tad hungover today, but rejoicing in the fact that I'm taking a month long hiatus from Bud Lite and any of it's evil relatives, and I'm also quitting smoking today.

It must be true, I read it on the internet!
Mem, if any or all of this is true, (I'm not holding my breath), Alan's idea is actually not all that bad. Get busy with a project to take your mind off those other things.

 

[Rippy]

I was going to do this tomorrow but I got bored. Lets get Ripster glued up. In the last episode I installed, silver soldered, and shaped Ripster's brass guard. Next is to glue up the handle. In this picture I am running a file around on the back side of the guard to make sure I didn't leave any burs sticking up from sanding. dang, it looks like my fingers got big again.

For knife building I like this Devcon glue. There's all the pieces that need to be glued on the knife tang. The figure eight on the wood is for orientation to get the right sides and ends back together so the grain matches back up at the glue joint. This ain't my first rodeo folks. I cleaned the tang off with denatured alcohol.

I spread glue between each piece as I stack the handle together. Before adding these spacers I forced epoxy into the wood part of the handle to remove any air space between the wood and the tang. When I am done the handle is completely sealed to the tang with no place for moisture to some how collect.

This is my glue clamp. I also use it to clamp the handle together tight when I drill the cross hole in the end of the handle. I stuck a greased pin in the hole to ensure alignment while the glue dries. After the handle is shaped I will add a brass tube to the hole.

Done for the night.

 

[memaquay]

You're flying right along! I'm starting to see the finished project in my mind's eye. Alan, thanks for the offer, but I'm going to take a break from canoe building this year, so far anyway. I'm going to spend some time learning how motors work, I've always been deficient in that area. Got a 1970 skidoo I'm going to start ripping apart next week and rebuilding, should keep me busy for a while. Maybe I'll be able to use the Ripster for winter camping this year!

 

[Guest]

I'm a tad hungover today, but rejoicing in the fact that I'm taking a month long hiatus from Bud Lite and any of it's evil relatives, and I'm also quitting smoking today.

I wholly support taking a break from Bud Lite and its evil relatives. I did so years ago and have come to appreciate the benefits of a nice stout or porter or a hoppy IPA.

Life is too short to drink cheap beer.

 

[Guest]

I was going to do this tomorrow but I got bored. Lets get Ripster glued up. In the last episode I installed, silver soldered, and shaped Ripster's brass guard. Next is to glue up the handle.

I am really looking forward to seeing the handle take shape. Not just seeing the grain that lies beneath coming to light, but in your process for shaping and sanding the wood. Metal working is a mystery to me, but I have an affinity for wood.

I presume there are both functional and aesthetic differences in handle shape. Do tell.

 

[Rippy]

I presume there are both functional and aesthetic differences in handle shape. Do tell.

Yes, I presume the same thing.

Well Mike you asked, so I'm going to climb up on my stump and answer. Keep in mind that this is just my opinion. Opinions are like bung holes, everybody's got one.

As far as this knife goes, I like this handle design both functionally and aesthetically. It took me several tries over the years to get it where I wanted it. It fills my hand and feels good. It also feels good held in a reverse grip. For some strange reason I like that in a knife. This design intentionally has a bulbus feel like a nordic knife. My choice of hidden tang handle construction is for purely aesthetic reasons but remains fully functional. I don't like to see a beautiful piece of wood split down the middle by a piece of steel. I have been able to build hidden tang knives with out making a weak handle. I have used this method of handle construction for 20 years now in over 100 knives and haven't had a failure yet. When I started building knives they were all full tang knives. It's much much easier to build a full tang knife. I could do it in half the time it takes me to do a hidden tang knife. You almost can't screw up. It's like having training wheels on your bicycle. You just sand the wood down till you hit metal and you have the profile. When I see a maker touting his "high end" full tang knife on the merits of strength I feel like it's a cop out. In my opinion, there are precious few "high end" full tang knives. The first thing I think of when I see a full tang knife is "that's a cheap way to build a knife". But low and behold, they want to charge like it took great skill. I still occasionally build a full tang utilitarian type knife, but it will have micarta handle scales and I won't try to pass it off as a piece of high end art. Or charge like it is.
Off stump.

 

[Jim Dodd]

Did I say WOW before ? If not will now WOW.
I am so used to seeing two chunks of wood riveted to a blade, it's not funny !
Love seeing shop made tools !! And a real artisan's work !

Jim

 

[BWCA66]

Did I say WOW before ? If not will now WOW.
I am so used to seeing two chunks of wood riveted to a blade, it's not funny !
Love seeing shop made tools !! And a real artisan's work !

Jim

Can't agree more, this build is fantastic! Seeing all the steps just puts me in awe! It has encouraged me to pull out a few knifes and get them all cleaned up. One needs a new handle and after following along here I think I will give it a shot. THANKS DAVE!

 

[Canotrouge]

Look great indeed! I will cherish that knife and bring it on every trip I will go on!!

 

[Rippy]

Here's where we left off last with the handle glued up and a little squeeze out everywhere. The grain is matched back up. There is a pin stuck through the handle to maintain hole alignment.

After the glue dried I sanded the spacer material down flush and band sawed the profile of the handle. Still have a ways to go before it feels like a knife handle.

The first thing I do when shaping a handle is to sand the side profile. I have changed to a 3" diameter wheel on the sander and am starting with a 120 grit belt.

One side profiled. This is the basic profile I am shooting for. There is a faint pencil mark down the center of the wood so I can keep the handle centered on the hidden knife tang.

After profiling the other side to match I start rounding the handle on the guard end. I am using the slack area of the belt cause it has some give. I always try to sand on a bias so the edge of the belt has less tendency to dig in.

I have sanded the wood down till it just meets the guard.

I am working my way back as I go. After some sanding in the middle it looks like this.

I have changed to a 1 1/2" diameter wheel on the sander to shape end of the end area.

Here you can see better what I am doing with the 1 1/2" wheel. I am rolling that area around on the wheel to wrap the radius around the handle.

Blending the radius with the sides. I will have some hand sanding to do to shape the end of the handle.

With the handle rough shaped I will let the Ripster sit for a few days to let the wood settle if it's going to shrink at all. The wood is fully seasoned but when you remove this much wood and expose the inner wood there is always a chance it might shrink slightly. I have sanded it to a 220 grit finish. I haven't done any hand sanding on the end of the handle yet. It still needs some work. I will hit it when I come back to the knife to finish it. I also will install a brass tube in the handle hole. I am very happy with the grain figure of the wood. The handle will be hand sanded down to 600 grit and then buffed on a buffing wheel. This wood when buffed will have a glazed look and I am expecting the wood grain to really pop.

The Ripster has taken shape and is no longer a pig in a poke. We are getting closer to the drawing to determine who will win the Ripster. I hope to know who the winner is before I make the sheath so I can stamp the initials of the winner on the sheath. If anyone else would like to enter the raffle, or up their anti, now would be a good time.

 

[latremorej]

It's been said, but. WOW. Great job Mr Rippy!

 

[Guest]

Ditto on the wows. That grain reveal is very nice.

I had wondered if you were going to use the area in the block of desert ironwood with the circular branch/knot grain disruption. I know those can be a crap shoot; you may find an attractive swirl further down in the grain, or a void or other mess.

Question: Is there a term for those areas in the grain where the root of a branch has created a swirl in the otherwise straight grain?

 

[wysedav]

Looks fantastic, I can't believe only 37 people in the pool I think I'm going to buy some more tickets.

 

[Guest]

The knife building threads have been an education in knife construction, technique and terminology. I always wondered how hardness was tested/determined. Now I know.

I never thought about the functional advantage of sealing the handle against water or etc infiltration. Know I know.

I had to look up “mircarta handle scales”. Now I know.

I never thought about the difference between full tang and hidden tang. Know I know.

But I still don’t know how Rippy managed a precise tang-sized slot in the handle.

Again please, do tell.

 

[Rippy]

Ditto on the wows. That grain reveal is very nice.

Question: Is there a term for those areas in the grain where the root of a branch has created a swirl in the otherwise straight grain?

Mike the picture doesn't do the grain justice. The knot goes through at a 45* angle and comes out the other side. There are interesting grain lines wrapping around the handle. When finished I will take pics from different sides.

In answer to your question, yes, there is a scientific term. It's called special swirly thingy. Don't stare at it too long or you will be hypnotized.