J Winters "Kite" build

[Hanz]

Ha! You are moving!

I can't wait to see it wet out. I think the pigment is going to look great.

Thanks again for the photos

 

[stripperguy]

A total of 42 fluid oz of resin, mixed 12, 12, 6, 12 oz at a time...double fiberglass stem strips at both ends, single layer Dynel stem strip at stern, bow has a double layer of Dynel strips.

Take a look.

The mixed resin is poured directly on the glass and squeegeed all around. As we reach the bilge, it gets harder and harder to squeegee the vertical surfaces. Switched to a roller at that point and finished with the squeegee.
It's important to reach the gunnels amidship before reaching the stems...excess cloth needs to be worked from the center of the hull towards the stems. Lock in the stems too soon, and you have a very hard time to keep the cloth from bunching up.

Here's Josh working the second side, he's already done all of the first side, carefully squeegeeing the crease to the sheerline.

This next sequence of photos shows how nicely the stems strips lay in, because they have been cut on the bias. Starting at the keel line/stem, I worked the cloth into place at the tightest radius first, then gradually work towards each end of the strip. Better to just look at these photos.

Disclaimer:
No resin soaked rollers were actually licked for this sequence. Professional wise guy. Do not attempt.

And here's one of the Dynel rub strips just before wetting it out.

And lastly, here is the hull, all wetted out, with all the stem strips and rub strips in place. The camera flash makes the resin appear more translucent than it is, I suspect that with the covering coats, none of the wood grain or color will show through.
Total time for wet out, including clean up = 1.5 hours.

 

[memaquay]

Very interesting! Is there any UV protection built into the pigment?

 

[stripperguy]

Very interesting! Is there any UV protection built into the pigment?

I'm pretty sure the pigment itself acts as a UV blocker...or rather a UV absorber.
The outer most layer of resin would no doubt suffer UV damage if left alone. I do plan to apply a final clear coat, an automotive type clear coat, and material decidedly has UV protection built in.

 

[Hanz]

Cool. I really like the red, it looks great.

 

[Guest]

Stripperguy, just as I suspected, any red Ferrari would be jealous. I'm impressed also to see that the layers seem to wet down so smoothly on top of one another. I didn't expect that. I'm still struggling with the bias cut thing, but don't worry, I'll catch up. I'm also expecting the red exterior/cedar interior to look WOW! It's already insanely good looking. Thanks for this shop sharing.

 

[stripperguy]

Stripperguy, just as I suspected, any red Ferrari would be jealous. I'm impressed also to see that the layers seem to wet down so smoothly on top of one another. I didn't expect that. I'm still struggling with the bias cut thing, but don't worry, I'll catch up. I'm also expecting the red exterior/cedar interior to look WOW! It's already insanely good looking. Thanks for this shop sharing.

Brad, I'm more of a Jeep guy myself (Ferrari's don't do it for me!)...I happen to have an extra TJ, red in color right now, selling as soon as it's retitled.

The cloth generally lays down quite well, I'll try to get some better photos of the stem strips to show how that Dynel fiber soaks up the resin and swells like an old man's ego!!

The bias cut thing, hmmmm, OK, here's a better description. I cut the cloth for the stem strips at a 45 degree angle to the way the cloth is woven, or at a 45 degree angle to the warp and weft. Google images will tell all.
When the cloth is cut that way, all edges have free strands. And when the bias cut strips are placed on the stems, those free ends can wiggles and shift easily. At the tightest radius, the fibers schmoosh closer together, gradually becoming less and less distorted as the strip is no longer covering a compound radius.

Now, for the aesthetic considerations. Yeah, I do think the red exterior with the natural interior will look pretty good. But try to imagine that with all carbon fiber gunnels. The jet black (or maybe with some kevlar too) gunnels starkly contrasting with the modern looking solid red exterior and the traditional looking all wood interior. And all carbon fiber seat frame and thwarts too. I think it will be a very distinctive look.

I'm still on the fence about decks and bulkheads though. Not undecided about their existence, that's a given. But I'm not sure if they should be natural, like the interior, red like the exterior, or carbon fiber, like the gunnels, seat and thwarts. I still have a few minutes to decide, I suppose. What do you guys think?

 

[Rippy]

Not sure how you're going to do the gunnels. If they extend all the way to the stem I would do decks natural. If they stop at the deck I would do the deck red. Either way I would do the bulkheads natural. Your call in the end. Later SG, Rippy

 

[stripperguy]

OK, the resin is still too soft for me to work on it...but here is a couple shots showing the Dynel stem strips at the bow.
See how thick it builds?

You know what? These resolution of the Picasa photos sucks...I can't tell anything from that photo, and I know what's going on!!

 

[Guest]

Your photos are clear enough for me, and thanks for them. Especially for the fabric explanation. I understand it now. As far as the decks and bulkheads go, that's a puzzle to me. The classic look of cedar vs the tech look of carbon fibre vs more sexy red. There'll be lots of wood interior to please the eye, with a contrast of cf in the seats etc. What colour is carbon fibre? Do you add pigment? (I came this close to buying a cf hull, and sometimes regret my hesitation. It was black, and really sharp to see. I opted for kevlar in a more traditional colour. The scratches I added would've been ugly on any boat.) Whatever your decision SG, it'll be made by someone with much skill and experience. I'm just a happy passenger along for the ride on this thread. A very happy passenger. Take your time. I've made my own popcorn.

 

[stripperguy]

Your photos are clear enough for me, and thanks for them. Especially for the fabric explanation. I understand it now. As far as the decks and bulkheads go, that's a puzzle to me. The classic look of cedar vs the tech look of carbon fibre vs more sexy red. There'll be lots of wood interior to please the eye, with a contrast of cf in the seats etc. What colour is carbon fibre? Do you add pigment? (I came this close to buying a cf hull, and sometimes regret my hesitation. It was black, and really sharp to see. I opted for kevlar in a more traditional colour. The scratches I added would've been ugly on any boat.) Whatever your decision SG, it'll be made by someone with much skill and experience. I'm just a happy passenger along for the ride on this thread. A very happy passenger. Take your time. I've made my own popcorn.

The carbon fiber gunnels will be natural black, as will the seat frame and thwarts, I like the contrast of traditional appearance and modern materials.
Now, for the bulkheads and decks, I'm still not sure.
Rippy asked a valid question...I usually run my decks all the way from the stems to a foot or two back, and the bulkheads at full sheer height to meet the decks. But, if I wee to keep the decks and the bulkheads lower than the sheer, a couple of options become available to me. I can run the gunnels up to and around the stems, which could add a totally different look than my usual, boring treatments. Also, by keeping the decks recessed just a bit, I could laminate the decks (and even the bulkheads) with carbon fiber. I would still tab in the decks and bulkheads with glass and clear resin. So I could end up with an all red exterior hull, all natural interior hull, and all black cf trim.
How 'bout them apples!?

The usual deck to hull joint and subsequent blending is always very time consuming, I could avoid all of that too!
I'm going to make a few sketches (3D models, actually) tomorrow at work, and see how it all works together.

And lastly, here's tonight's update without photos...I put a heavy covering coat on the hull yesterday around 5 PM, ran the heat in the boat shop until around 10 PM. This morning before work at 6 AM, the shop was cooled down muchly, but the hull felt nice and firm, and tack free. Home tonight after work, crank on the heat, and a while later head out there. Tried to sand and scrape...it ain't happening. Too soft yet, the heat is still cranking. I'll shut it off around 10 PM, and try again tomorrow night.

 

[latremorej]

Brad, I'm more of a Jeep guy myself (Ferrari's don't do it for me!)...I happen to have an extra TJ, red in color right now, selling as soon as it's retitled.

The cloth generally lays down quite well, I'll try to get some better photos of the stem strips to show how that Dynel fiber soaks up the resin and swells like an old man's ego!!

The bias cut thing, hmmmm, OK, here's a better description. I cut the cloth for the stem strips at a 45 degree angle to the way the cloth is woven, or at a 45 degree angle to the warp and weft. Google images will tell all.
When the cloth is cut that way, all edges have free strands. And when the bias cut strips are placed on the stems, those free ends can wiggles and shift easily. At the tightest radius, the fibers schmoosh closer together, gradually becoming less and less distorted as the strip is no longer covering a compound radius.

Now, for the aesthetic considerations. Yeah, I do think the red exterior with the natural interior will look pretty good. But try to imagine that with all carbon fiber gunnels. The jet black (or maybe with some kevlar too) gunnels starkly contrasting with the modern looking solid red exterior and the traditional looking all wood interior. And all carbon fiber seat frame and thwarts too. I think it will be a very distinctive look.

I'm still on the fence about decks and bulkheads though. Not undecided about their existence, that's a given. But I'm not sure if they should be natural, like the interior, red like the exterior, or carbon fiber, like the gunnels, seat and thwarts. I still have a few minutes to decide, I suppose. What do you guys think?

I think that the carbon bulkheads and decks would tie in the seat and gunnels. Maybe save 16-18oz as well?

 

[Steve in Idaho]

I think I'm with latremorej. Carbon decks and bulkheads would look smashing below gun'ls that go clear to the stems. And the weight savings can't be ignored.

 

[stripperguy]

Yeah, I think that will be the plan...but the weight savings may not be what you guys expect. The decks and bulkheads will still have a cedar strip substrate, only the exposed surfaces will have a single layer of carbon.
And the gunnels, seat frame and thwarts will all have foam cores, with the carbon tape or maybe sleeving wrapped over. Even though I use the lowest density mahogany that I can on most of my builds, the weights of the trim really does add up! Some boats get 5 to 7 lbs heavier with the wood trim. Imagine if I used oak or ash? One of my business partners built a comp cruiser about 20 years ago...he used 3/4 section cherry and ash for the trim. tandem seat frames, 4 thwarts plus a portage thwart. It looks gorgeous, but his boat (only 18 ft) weighs over 65 lbs!! He doesn't carry it very far any more...

 

[stripperguy]

Some photos for the eye hungry...

I spent some time tonight with the sanding block and a couple scrapers to blend in (mostly) the stems strips. And knock down any little lumps that were hanging around.

You can see here where the half layer is making itself known, even under the full layer. A bit of sanding and maybe one more covering coat will hide all of that, I hope.

And here's a look at it with tonight's covering coat freshly slathered on. This was another 18 oz of resin...I think there will be only one more covering coat of resin. I'll have to really work to blend the stems in before that final coat.

Thanks to you guys I have definitely settled on the bulkhead and deck configuration, as well as the gunnel layout. In a few days I'll be popping this thing off the forms...exciting and scary at the same time. Exciting to get a good view of it from a different perspective. Exciting to find out the weight. Scary maybe, when I find out the weight!! Did I mention that I don't like surprises?

 

[Steve in Idaho]

I think I'm really liking the shape of that bottom!
Are you using just the roller for finish coats?

 

[stripperguy]

I think I'm really liking the shape of that bottom!
Are you using just the roller for finish coats?

Yup,
I need to spend a little more time and care with the sanding before the next and (hopefully) final covering coat.

 

[Patchfly]

Awesome... Amazing....

 

[stripperguy]

Well, I couldn't work on the hull last night, the resin was still tacky...much like my wardrobe!!
So I was poking around, getting ready to strip a panel for bulkheads and decks, and I realized something.

If I'm planning to have a carbon faced deck and bulkhead, what does it matter if the substrate is cedar or foam? A foam cored bulkhead and deck can possibly save a little weight, plus, it's less effort than stripping and sanding a panel.

Done! I'll pick up some foam this weekend. I can piddle along with the decks and bulkheads as I wait between coats for the hull. I still need to finish the hot wire foam cutter that I started a week or two ago...

 

[latremorej]

That's what I was assuming you would do if you were using carbon for decks and bulkheads. I thought I was missing something


BTW. That is RED. I like it. One question though, what will you use for the UV protection, clear varnish?