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Foam stripper build.

I understand the weight of the cloth per sq whatever(meter, yard)
Can you measure the thickness of the basalt before it is lamainated?
The reason I ask is that these lower density materials can be quite thick even though their weights are relatively low.
This can require large amounts of resin for wet out and possibly negate the weight advantage of the fiber.
If you have a micrometer or dial calipers you can measure the thickness.
This may explain why your build is as heavy as it is at this point.
 
The reason I ask is that these lower density materials can be quite thick even though their weights are relatively low.
This can require large amounts of resin for wet out and possibly negate the weight advantage of the fiber.

I've found this to be the case as well. 5 oz carbon is considerably thicker (as dry cloth) than 6 oz fiberglass and it takes a lot more resin to wet out and fill the weave. Vacuum bagging or infusion helps quite a bit as it compresses everything and keeps resin usage to a minimum. Hand layup can be a bit brutal on resin usage though.

Alan
 
I do not have a way of measuring its thickness. But it seemed like the foam was to blame as well. Right now, the hull is as rigid as any finished hull. That’s without the inside fabric. That’s why I’m thinking of skimping on the inside layup.
 
I have no experience with foam, but I do have some experience with building big strippers. One 20 footer I built had one layer of 10 ounce on both the inside and the outside, 1/4 inch cedar strips. It was a family canoe and has held up very well for the last 20 years. The next one was a very robust 20 footer, built with cedar as well, football of 6 ounce on the outside, so 12 ounce on the bottom and single layer on the inside, but with some generous overlaps, as I put the glass in from side to side. Dropped a large jack pine on it while chainsawing a campsite, it survived with only a minor repair.

The longer the canoe the stronger the scantlings and layups is what I have been lead to believe, but as I said, I know nothing of foam construction.
 
Mp214parks. You are too far along to stop now !

I'm in agreement, as you say the hull right now is plenty stiff, to opt for thinner glass on the inside ! If I had S-glass ? I'd use it. If not E-glass should work.

The nice thing about your construction method ! once you have the hull glassed on the inside, and you think you need more reinforcement ? You can add it !

Yeah it might not be a Feather weight, but it should serve your purpose !

Looking forward to more !

Jim
 
I’m thinking I’ll just use the 8 oz S glass alone on the inside. It is high density which means less resin and good puncture resistance. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks for all the input.
 
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