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Paraffin work just fine, but the idea to add some beeswax to it to make it les crumbly is a good idea. When I make this things, I want them to be fast ans easy.
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Happy Winter Solstice! 🌇🌃
Ferro rods...
- Thread starter Canotrouge
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Thanks, the addition of the Beeswax seems to be needed to keep the flexibility. That is a handy tip!
Thanks Doc. Think I'm going to try your method, as 100% beeswax will simplify the process.
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I will have to try bees wax, I have some handy, and plus it smells better and is less toxic than paraffin! Ok, from now on it will be beeswax!!
Like a lot of other things in life, 'size matter's' when using a ferro rod and striker - more so when you are cold, wet or have old and arthritic fingers... the larger rods now popularly available (to me) are so much easier to grasp and strike onto, since you are already probably kneeling next to your tinder bundle.
Doc, are you using just Beeswax to waterproof materials or mixing it in with something like Linseed oil? (ala Tincloth treatment)
Doc, are you using just Beeswax to waterproof materials or mixing it in with something like Linseed oil? (ala Tincloth treatment)
I just did up some more braids used about 75% bees wax to 25% gulf wax/candle stub mix. I like the bees wax in there.
Now to order some rods from Firesteel.
Jim
Now to order some rods from Firesteel.
Jim
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Southcove, I use a 2-1-1 parts mixture of white beeswax - boiled linseed oil - and pure gum spirits turpentine. Melt the wax, slowly mix in oil & turp, let it set up. If I'm wp canvas cloth I'm a little more generous with the oil in the mix; makes for a smoother, easier spreading paste on fabric. For most everything else (wood, leather, etch.) I stick with the recipe. Doc
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Thank you Doc for the recipe! Could come handy!
Is pure gum spirit turpentine different than turpentine sold at the big box store?
Thanks Doc. I was unsure about what mixture others had used.
Always am going to remember to treat Linseed oil and rags w utmost care against spontaneous ignition. Last time we treated an old tarp we hung it outside in the sun just to help build the materials warmth and hopefully increase penetration of the mixture.
Always am going to remember to treat Linseed oil and rags w utmost care against spontaneous ignition. Last time we treated an old tarp we hung it outside in the sun just to help build the materials warmth and hopefully increase penetration of the mixture.
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Thank you Doc.
Right there with you Muskrat. I've made eleven so far, two wicks for each one bees wax and the other the paraffin candle stub mix. Some long some short. I don't think they need to be very long. As I said I use one every night to light the fire in the fireplace, just to see how much length I use in a month. This is the best thing I've learned in a long time. Hoops method of striking with the jute on top is the game changer.
Jim
Jim
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Wow braiding, I just use the straight jute twine, soak it and shove it into the cut down brake line!!
I will second that statement. I've always thrown my sparks downward, always targeting my tinder bundle, hoping to get an effective hot spark into just the right spot. Rarely getting first attempt successful results, even when an ideal tinder material was used.
With Hoops method, teaching the use of a ferro rod to beginners, could gain confidence far quicker. I have also tested some lesser quality ferro rods, and even some of those that I had previously rejected because of lack of a good hot effective spark, actually work better using Hoop's method. Proximity placement of the tender to the edge of the striker, allows an extremely short travel distance of the generated spark, is the key.
Game changer indeed. Thanks again wgiles for bringing this to my attention.
I had not thought of doing it this way until I saw Hoop's video, but it's the traditional way when using flint and steel. With flint and steel, the tinder is held on top of the flint and the steel is brought down on the flint. It's the steel that makes the sparks. It should be possible to use a piece of flint as the scraper with a ferro rod, but I'll probably stick with steel or carbide. I've been looking for a nice flat piece of steel to use as a scraper. File steel should be ideal, but it's usually thicker than necessary. I want to try the replaceable blades for paint or wallpaper scrapes when I get a chance. They should be plenty hard and big enough to get a secure grip with the match on top.
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Yeah that HOOP technique is pretty good I have to say!! Is it his? doesn't matter!
Great information in this thread. Firesteels are on the way and now I need to build some of these fire starter wicks. I really like this website and the topics discussed.
Mail man dropped off 4 of the Firesteel Gob spark Rangers today. Ron makes a nice product ! And Sparks great.
I braided up some Jute. Thought I had a cake of Trappers wax, but can't locate it.
So I'll be on the hunt tomorrow, for wax.
I have a bundle of old Aluminum arrow shafts, and a flaring tool. I can find some copper tubing if that doesn't work.
One set is going into my life jacket !
Thanks guys for the great info !
Jim
I braided up some Jute. Thought I had a cake of Trappers wax, but can't locate it.
So I'll be on the hunt tomorrow, for wax.
I have a bundle of old Aluminum arrow shafts, and a flaring tool. I can find some copper tubing if that doesn't work.
One set is going into my life jacket !
Thanks guys for the great info !
Jim
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