I used paraffin wax instead of tape on the edges of the mold stations.
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Merry Christmas, Peace on Earth and Goodwill to All! 🎄🎅🏻🎁
Another first timer here!
- Thread starter TerryJames
- Start date
That should do the trick
Pretty happy with how the planking is going (so far). My plan was to do 2 strips a day due to stapleless, but since I’m not to the bilge yet, I was able to do a few more.
Im sure noticing how bad of a job I did on the bead and cove. I have quite a few gaps. I’m guessing that my coves were cut too deep. I’m hoping the sanding will take care of most of it. If not, I guess I will be using abit more epoxy.
Im sure noticing how bad of a job I did on the bead and cove. I have quite a few gaps. I’m guessing that my coves were cut too deep. I’m hoping the sanding will take care of most of it. If not, I guess I will be using abit more epoxy.
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Has anyone played around with the dying the epoxy resins?I was debating trying to do something like this into the decks using driftwood from the river here or some live edge and cracked cherry that I have laying around. I think that would really look sharp.
Terry
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Glad to see the website is back up and running!!!
Anyways, I’ve been busy with the stapleless build. The clamps that I made (Jim’s suggestion) worked perfectly. I couldn’t even imagine how hard it would have been without them. I bought 20 of them and probably could have used 10 more at least.
The next week week or so I will be epoxying the gaps and sanding. Which of course means I will be (hopefully) fiberglassing soon.
As as for the fiberglass, any suggestions? I was thinking either 4mm or 6mm. Since I’ve never paddled before, I really don’t plan on using the canoe for anything other than “fair weather” canoeing, but then again, who knows... Also, is there a certain type of fiberglass I should buy? I’ve seen mention of e glass and s glass but not sure what would be best. Anywhere special I should buy it from, and quantity? The canoe is 15 foot and I would want enough for paddles as well, plus a little extra for practicing before the real project.
Here are a few pictures. Dont mind all the gaps, I’m hoping the epoxy takes care of them!
Thanks!
Terry
6oz. E-glass is the standard treatment inside and out recommended by Ted Moore's and others. Given that you don't foresee any special use or abuse it might be best to go with that suggestion, this being your first build. The 6 oz plain weave from Raka is what I have used in the past, you choose the width based on your boat.
http://www.raka.com/fiberglass_cloth_sub.html
I also use their epoxy, which is the least expensive stuff I've found. Lots of people on here use it. Make sure and have stuff shipped to a commercial address, you save $ on shipping.
You'll need 2 pieces, inside and out, each a little longer than the canoe. 11 yards will be enough and youll have a little left over. You'll probably need 2 gallons of epoxy, give or take. I would buy lighter fiberglass for paddles, something like 2 oz.
Mark
http://www.raka.com/fiberglass_cloth_sub.html
I also use their epoxy, which is the least expensive stuff I've found. Lots of people on here use it. Make sure and have stuff shipped to a commercial address, you save $ on shipping.
You'll need 2 pieces, inside and out, each a little longer than the canoe. 11 yards will be enough and youll have a little left over. You'll probably need 2 gallons of epoxy, give or take. I would buy lighter fiberglass for paddles, something like 2 oz.
Mark
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Wow, you've certainly been busy! Looks great! I like the alternating colors on the football.
I know some people who have done projects with that tinted resin and they look great. From what I've seen, the stuff must be plenty durable and strong enough to use on your decks. I'm not sure though, I haven't seen anything done with it in a thin (1" or less) situation like the decks would be. That would look really cool...
6 oz is standard. If you wanted to go with 4oz I imagine most people would recommend doing a football shaped piece on the bottom and then a full-length piece on the outside. For your goals with the canoe I would suggest doing one solid piece, I've played around a bit and have a hard time getting the edges to look nice, even though you'd be covering the edges of the football piece with another layer it would still be there... You could also do 6oz on the outside and 4 on the inside for a little weight-savings.
S glass is more expensive and more durable from what I understand. It doesn't scratch as easily as E-glass, but it still scratches. E-glass is the standard, and I believe easiest to work with and possibly also the clearer or the two? I've read many posts here that talk about the differences and of course can't find them right now... Hopefully someone else chimes in after this bump.
Zac
I know some people who have done projects with that tinted resin and they look great. From what I've seen, the stuff must be plenty durable and strong enough to use on your decks. I'm not sure though, I haven't seen anything done with it in a thin (1" or less) situation like the decks would be. That would look really cool...
6 oz is standard. If you wanted to go with 4oz I imagine most people would recommend doing a football shaped piece on the bottom and then a full-length piece on the outside. For your goals with the canoe I would suggest doing one solid piece, I've played around a bit and have a hard time getting the edges to look nice, even though you'd be covering the edges of the football piece with another layer it would still be there... You could also do 6oz on the outside and 4 on the inside for a little weight-savings.
S glass is more expensive and more durable from what I understand. It doesn't scratch as easily as E-glass, but it still scratches. E-glass is the standard, and I believe easiest to work with and possibly also the clearer or the two? I've read many posts here that talk about the differences and of course can't find them right now... Hopefully someone else chimes in after this bump.
Zac
E glass from raka is the way to go
for your application I doubt you’ll need more than 1-1/2 layers of 4 oz inside and out
buy a 3 gal kit from raka it will cost less per gal and you can save the excess for paddles repairs and the next boat
for your application I doubt you’ll need more than 1-1/2 layers of 4 oz inside and out
buy a 3 gal kit from raka it will cost less per gal and you can save the excess for paddles repairs and the next boat
Right on !
Thanks guys,
I already had bought the West System epoxy so wasn’t going to reorder that. I figured I should at least go with the 6oz glass because I’m pretty sure I got a little carried away with the sanding... Chasing rainbows I guess.
I already had bought the West System epoxy so wasn’t going to reorder that. I figured I should at least go with the 6oz glass because I’m pretty sure I got a little carried away with the sanding... Chasing rainbows I guess.
You are doing fine Terry !
Absolutely nothing wrong with the West system ! It's just more expensive.
Many building books were written before RAKA emerged on to the Epoxy scene !
Keep at it ! Hope you can get it on the water, before freeze up !
Jim
Absolutely nothing wrong with the West system ! It's just more expensive.
Many building books were written before RAKA emerged on to the Epoxy scene !
Keep at it ! Hope you can get it on the water, before freeze up !
Jim
Going to be doing the fiberglassing next Saturday, pretty nervous about it but should go pretty well. If anyone is bored, feel free to come to central Wisconsin to help out! I’ll supply the cocktails.
Good luck Terry, you'll do fine. Just take your time and run through the whole process a couple times to make sure everything you need is close at hand. I would come help if I were anywhere near you. Just remember to make the effort to focus yourself on the sides of the canoe. Getting the bottom done well is relatively easy since its staring at you the whole time. The sides are more difficult since they are vertical, but that's what you'll see, or what other people will see when on the water. Meanwhile, the bottom will be underwater scraping on rocks.
Mark
Mark
Great advice Mark! I’ll definitely keep an eye on the sides. I’ll be posting pics when I’m done
Don't walk away from Wet epoxy !
Have everything lined up before you mix that first batch !
Enlist someone to help ! An extra set of eyes, and someone to mix the epoxy is a great help !
Get the work area as hot as you can, and lower the temps a little when finished with the last cup. This is important during wet out of the cloth, to prevent outgassing !
Keep moving when applying epoxy ! You will have time to come back, and address things like wrinkles.
Besure the hull is clean before laying the cloth down.
Lastly say a prayer ! You need all the help you can get !
You will be fine !
Jim
Have everything lined up before you mix that first batch !
Enlist someone to help ! An extra set of eyes, and someone to mix the epoxy is a great help !
Get the work area as hot as you can, and lower the temps a little when finished with the last cup. This is important during wet out of the cloth, to prevent outgassing !
Keep moving when applying epoxy ! You will have time to come back, and address things like wrinkles.
Besure the hull is clean before laying the cloth down.
Lastly say a prayer ! You need all the help you can get !
You will be fine !
Jim
Jim,
I have a few people helping out so should of be good on that aspect. The garage is heated so I planned on setting the temp at 70 to start the project. I plan on doing at least 3 coats on Saturday. My understanding is that you need to wait about 3 hours between coats. Should I wait until the last coat is on before I lower the temperature? I figured if I needed a 4th or 5th coat, I would wait until the 3rd coat is cured then sand it down to 220 before the 4th and possibly 5th coats. As for the epoxy, I know most of you guys use RAKA but like I said I had already bought the West System based on reading about it in canoecraft. While watching videos on YouTube, I noticed that some people use the microfiber filler on the wet out phase and others don’t. Should I be adding this?
Also, is there a way to clean the paint brushes between coats or should I just toss them and use fresh for every coat after?
As for the materials on hand, I’ve got a list and will have everything later out...
I Truly appreciate all this advice and look forward to helping others once I have the knowledge to do so.
I have a few people helping out so should of be good on that aspect. The garage is heated so I planned on setting the temp at 70 to start the project. I plan on doing at least 3 coats on Saturday. My understanding is that you need to wait about 3 hours between coats. Should I wait until the last coat is on before I lower the temperature? I figured if I needed a 4th or 5th coat, I would wait until the 3rd coat is cured then sand it down to 220 before the 4th and possibly 5th coats. As for the epoxy, I know most of you guys use RAKA but like I said I had already bought the West System based on reading about it in canoecraft. While watching videos on YouTube, I noticed that some people use the microfiber filler on the wet out phase and others don’t. Should I be adding this?
Also, is there a way to clean the paint brushes between coats or should I just toss them and use fresh for every coat after?
As for the materials on hand, I’ve got a list and will have everything later out...
I Truly appreciate all this advice and look forward to helping others once I have the knowledge to do so.
Terry
The outgassing will occur mostly during Wetting out the cloth. But not limited to it ! You can keep the temp up if you want, just keep a hair drier to warm the area where outgassing is occurring !
Have the extra hand attend to this, while you apply resin.
I prefer Cigar foam rollers over squeegees, good idea to have both handy ! The foam rollers are the best for fill coats in my book !
Good Luck again !
Jim
The outgassing will occur mostly during Wetting out the cloth. But not limited to it ! You can keep the temp up if you want, just keep a hair drier to warm the area where outgassing is occurring !
Have the extra hand attend to this, while you apply resin.
I prefer Cigar foam rollers over squeegees, good idea to have both handy ! The foam rollers are the best for fill coats in my book !
Good Luck again !
Jim
What is the best cleaner to use before laying down the fiberglass? Just a damp rag to get all the dust off?
Thanks guys, getting nervous for tomorrow and trying to cross all the t’s and dot the i’s.
Thanks guys, getting nervous for tomorrow and trying to cross all the t’s and dot the i’s.
