What height boots do you prefer?

I'm shopping for new boots, which I haven't done in decades. Two questions about boot height. The first is about non-winter boot use; the second is about winter boot use.

1. For those of you who wear boots when canoeing, portaging or general canoe tripping—and, since there's probably an overlap, when non-winter hiking or hunting—what height boots do you prefer? Perhaps you have more than one answer for different non-winter uses.

2. What height boot do you prefer for snow and other winter uses?

If you use the same boot or same height boot in all seasons, that experience would also be of interest.

My former boots have been 6" uninsulated Bean Boots, which I still have but don't use for canoeing or in snow. Also, 12" insulated LaCrosse rubber boots and 10" insulated Bean Boots, both of which are 41-years-old and are getting tossed. Finally, I've had 18" LaCrosse Burly rubber boots for 28 years, which are also getting tossed.

I've taken delivery of two pairs of boots so far, both on good sales, but I'm not using them outside the house yet because I'm unsure about my choices, especially the heights, and may want to return one or both. For general use I bought THESE 10" uninsulated leather Irish Setter boots, and for winter/snow I bought THESE 10" nylon/leather Sorel pac boots.

Again, I'm primarily interested in height preferences, but all boot discussion welcome.

I’ll grab either my Salewa Rapace, which have a solid base and pliable around the ankle. Or I’ll go with, but less likely, Scarpa Kinesis Pro. Similar foundation, but leather upper and more rigid.

Winter boots were Just replaced after about 15 years of having Sorels to North Face Chillkats with 400g of insulation. I wear gators when the snow gets a little deeper. If it’s real cold or deep snow, I’ll grab my Neo over boots with extendable gaiter built in and wear tennis shoes inside.

If I’m paddling in winter or cold weather, I might choose to wear the Astral Hiyaks with neoprene socks or go with neoprene booties.

I wear high unlined LaCrosse rubber boots when beaches are available, especially if in Ohio waters which are effluent rich. I wet foot elsewhere in the summer. If paddling in cooler temperatures, I add warm socks. Schnees pack boots in winter, Keen Dry boots for snowshoeing.

For 3 season use I've gone away from traditional boots and wear ankle height, lightweight hiking shoes. I've never had ankle problems so the lower height isn't an issue for me. I like the lighter weight over the course of each day so that's what I now use regardless of whether I'm on a paddling or hiking trip.

For winter use I go with one of three options...if there isn't a lot of snow, I typically wear a pair of Keen winter hiking boots. They come up just around ankle height and are pretty comfortable; although I wish they had a wide width for their winter hiking boots. If it's a wet sloppy snow, I'll pull out an old pair of Sorels that I keep for that purpose. Dry snow? Steger mukluks all the way.

Don't know if any of these options will work for you but I wish you all the best in finding good winter footwear. It seems to be more of a challenge then it should be.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper

snapper said:

For 3 season use I've gone away from traditional boots and wear ankle height, lightweight hiking shoes. I've never had ankle problems so the lower height isn't an issue for me. I like the lighter weight over the course of each day so that's what I now use regardless of whether I'm on a paddling or hiking trip.

For winter use I go with one of three options...if there isn't a lot of snow, I typically wear a pair of Keen winter hiking boots. They come up just around ankle height and are pretty comfortable; although I wish they had a wide width for their winter hiking boots. If it's a wet sloppy snow, I'll pull out an old pair of Sorels that I keep for that purpose. Dry snow? Steger mukluks all the way.

Don't know if any of these options will work for you but I wish you all the best in finding good winter footwear. It seems to be more of a challenge then it should be.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper

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Snapper, how do you like your mukluks? There’s a few people who wear them around the town I live in and I’ve always wanted a pair.

Glenn,

I prefer tall boots for both ( but I am old school ). I like boots like Bean uninsulated guide boot ... with eye hooks, not regular laces - WAY faster on and off. I wear them for canoeing, portaging mucky, rocky trails ... wadding out to enter my canoe in a boulder garden etc.

For winter boots - same. I tuck my pants in them, keeps snow out and cuffs dry for comfort in camp or house. Just under the knee is my preferred boot height warm or cold weather.

When processing firewood or hiking the hilly terrain around here - then I like ankle support low boots.

Bob.

I have arthritis in my (twice broken) right ankle so I wear boots just about everywhere as I need the support. I don't want them coming above my ankles, however, and the only ones I have that do are a pair of Rocky's I use for hunting (I bought them because they've got some kind of crazy good insulation)

Keans are comfy right out of the box but I've gotten better life out of Carolina all leather boots (steel toe for me, of course, but they ARE colder in the winter). I also have a pair of Salomon lightweight hikers (also ankle height); they're not waterproof but are comfortable on trails. They've become my preferred shoe for portages.

I kneel almost exclusively paddling, so a stiff boot doesn't work for me, but I would highly recommend a look at Jim Green's AR8s if you want a burly boot. They're about the height of your Setters. JG also sells a 'Trooper' boot that has a pretty classic 1920's canoeist look, I have a pair and love them. I generally prefer a lower boot so my ankle can move, but the Troopers feel like moccasins, even laced up.

I have worked umpteen pairs of Red Wings into the ground but their quality has fallen significantly off of late. I've gone to zero-drop shoes over the past four or five years and so that makes finding an actual work boot rather tough.These days I am extremely happy with Jim Green, because finally - FINALLY - a company has made all-leather, good-quality, resole-able zero-drop boots. I've thrown my Lems away, and now have 3 pairs of JGs. They are designed in South Africa, however, so winter boots they are not.
The 'Troopers', aged 2 months:





As a shameless plug to those interested in boots, I have a near-new pair of Russell Thula Thula zero drops in a 13 to sell. I wear a 14/15 and had them adjusted by Russel, and while the repair was professionally done, they no longer fit me.

MyKneesHurt said:

zero-drop 'Trooper' boot

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MKH, perhaps you could summarize why, and for what purposes, you prefer zero-drop boots.

I'm unfamiliar with that style, although a quick reading says you can get a "ground feel" through the thin sole. Is "ground feel" what one wants when in the wild stepping on sharp rocks, ruts, roots, talus/scree, and slippery underwater rocks? Or is a thick, grippy, lugged outsole preferable?

@Glenn MacGrady Sorry, I assume people are familiar with it because I've spent so much time in them. A 'zero-drop' shoe is a shoe with no elevated heel, so that the foot rests parallel to the ground, much as it would while barefoot. ('Zero-drop' is used interchageably with 'barefoot'.) The modern barefoot trend was kickstarted by a book called "Born to Run" by Chris McDougall, about the Tarahumara Indians of Mexico, famous for running enormous distances in nothing but homemade sandals. McDougall also posits that a lot of running injuries are due to over-engineered footwear reducing the ability of the foot to function as evolution intended.
The thinking is, no heel-lift is a much more natural position for your feet to be in, and thus easier on your whole body. It can relieve plantar fascitis, knee problems, and lower back issues, because the shoe allows your body to distribute weight more naturally. In my own case, they've virtually eliminated lifelong knee and shin pain, and I've noticed improvement in balance, circulation, and foot flexibility.
'Ground feel' is something of a marketing hook, and thus what the majority of barefoot shoe makers advertise - think something along the lines of a synthetic moccassin. By and large it's rather pleasant hiking in them, but of course the next man may prefer something different. At a quick guess I would say I've done upward of 300 hiking and backpacking miles in zero-drops; close to 400 if I include portages. My coldwater paddling shoes are NRS neoprene booties, which are zero-drop by default, and yes, I've banged my ankles plenty of times.

What's great about Jim Green's offerings is that they've made barefoot boots with a decent sole, something that a nail on a job site won't immediately penetrate, and with decent leather, that looks like an actual boot. I've had a nail go entirely through my foot while wearing Lems (one of the zero-drop shoe makers that promotes 'ground feel'), and that's something you only want to happen once.

The AR8s I mentioned are definitely not a zero-drop, they're much more of a rugged, stiff boot with a lug sole. JG is also introducing a "rugged" trooper boot next year that's essentially a Pacific Northwest logging boot - much stiffer and with a giant lug sole.

My winter boots are the insulated Irish Setter Elk Hunter at 10 inches. My warmer weather boots are a 6" Red Wing upland bird hunting boot. I don't wear either for canoeing.

For paddling and tripping I use 15" rubber Xtra Tuff boot or knee high Bean Hunting Boot. They're good for wet footing and getting over beaver dams. For wading I used a six inch Bean Boot with a neoprene sock this year and that worked well.

12" boots for water (which I don't currently own-- trying some NRS boundary boots which are even taller), 10" boots for snow (Thinsulate insulated Bean boots).

I've got some 8" Maine hunting shoes from LLBean, and they just seem a little low for the water. Fine 95% of the time, but one slip and you're wet plus they are more likely to get overtopped in choppy conditions.

MyKneesHurt said:

My coldwater paddling shoes are NRS neoprene booties, which are zero-drop by default

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That's an interesting point. Virtually all my paddling shoes for the past 45 years have been low volume neoprene shoes, neoprene boots, or perhaps some flexible sandals. I've even portaged in them many times, but mostly shorter portages. Of course, I was not using them for the supposed health benefits, but rather for their instep and ankle flexibility when kneeling on a low seat in a canoe, and I've never really hiked long distances in them.

I took a chance and bought a pair of Muck Boots (Edgewaters-14”) a few years ago and I really like them for canoeing. They have a thin felt lining, not really a winter boot but I use them year round. Easy on and off and I like how you can quickly tuck your pants leg into them for warmth and dryness. I have a couple of pair of Bean boots but I seldom use them anymore, they like to leak at the seams between rubber and leather at the worst times. Snow seal is only a temporary solution imo.I always bring a pair of crocs for camp and hot days.

MyKneesHurt said:

I have worked umpteen pairs of Red Wings into the ground but their quality has fallen significantly off of late

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I have worn Red Wing 606 boots for probably 30 years driving and working around trucks, and I recently bought a new pair, my first non steel tip pair. I didn’t notice any difference in quality, mine were made in the USA.

Robin said:

I have a couple of pair of Bean boots but I seldom use them anymore, they like to leak at the seams between rubber and leather at the worst times. Snow seal is only a temporary solution imo.

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I've been using Aqua Seal or Seam Grip on my Maine shoe seams for over 30 years. It works great, and protects the seam as well as waterproofs them. You'll want to clean the SnoSeal off before if you want to try it. I use Seam Grip on all the seams of my outdoor shoes--dramatically increases their life.

I have used Chota Quetico Trekker boots, which are no longer made, replaced by a newer version at a higher price. As far as I know, these boots are only available through Piragis in Ely MN. I settled on these boots for the ankle protection and support which became important as I participated in Wabakimi Project trips. After several earlier trips using the Teva water shoes which I liked, I needed a replacement as the Tevas and my feet and ankles took a beating.feet and ankles took a beating while portaging and wading in Wabakimi.

Just bought some proper LL Beans hunting shoes. They are unlined and I think 10 inch tops. Plenty of room for heavy socks, even 2 pairs in the snow. Not too hot for working horses in the mud. I have some insulated hunting boots that are about the same height for cold weather.

MyKneesHurt said:

The thinking is, no heel-lift is a much more natural position for your feet to be in, and thus easier on your whole body.

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That makes some sense to me, and if so-called barefoot or zero-drop boots solve pain or balance issues for someone, go for it.

However, it seems to me that many normal boots have no or only trivial heel lift. For example, look at the Muck boots Robin pictured above. The heel and sole seem about at the same level. Looking at my Irish Setters, the lugged sole elevates the entire boot but only lifts the heel fractionally above the sole. By the way, these boots shocked me with their comfort. I expected a stiff and bumpy ride out of the box, but they are as cushioned and pillowy as any casual or running shoe I've owned.

hmmm ?!

I think something like this

I like the thigh high style on my younger women canoe tripping partners, really very practical for beaver dam crossings and fly fishing in rivers & streams where the water is over the knees.
I wore out a pair of Red Wing Irish Setter wedge soled hunting boots, canoe tripping in the Boundary Waters, Quetico Provincial Park, pulp cutting, working for the US Forest Service in seasonal summer jobs in college and bird hunting. Took quite a few years back in my twenties, to totally wear them out though. Suspect that they in reality just rotted away. Even had them re-soled once at a cobblers. Never could ask for a better boot.
These days I’m wearing a pair of Russell Moccasin Joe’s boots, currently on the second pair of soles. When they came back from Russell Moccasin they looked almost brand new. These boots were expensive, but will outlive me. For camp footwear. I have a pair of double sole moccasins from Russell Moccasin, that I got for Christmas about thirty years ago. These are my regular house slippers, take up very little room in my pack. Gooped up with Snow Seal to glow in the dark proportions, they are waterproof enough for any padding around the camp site that I do.
I also like for canoeing or any wet weather activities or bog slogs, Nokian Finnjagd rubber boots from Finland. Made for long walking days in wet conditions. Nice sturdy, grippy soles for rough rocky country interspersed with bog, swamp and streams.
Winter wear is mukluks for dry cold, or Pia’s in Anchorage, AK, Lobben felt boots from Norway.
Don’t forget that the fur trade voyager’s, those ultimate canoe trippers and the Native North Americans were wearing moccasins of various types and went all over in all seasons.
Muck boots do not fit my feet, too wide for my long narrow ski like feet. I have bought some, the slip on slipper style and the warm arctic ones , but never found them comfortable enough to keep. My friend Paul loves the ones that I gave him.
Ankle height to seven inches in leather boots, ten inch for mukluks and knee high in rubber boots are my personal preference in heights.