Touch up painting a wood/Dacron Loon Works

[Brightraven]

These are all very helpful ideas, thank you! Waterdog, I appreciate those photos, and seeing the whole process step by step (certainly makes it seem less daunting). Glenn, your idea is a good one about applying primer/paint before the epoxy mix followed by subsequent layers of paint - at least that would make me feel safer about it all... But now I am very intrigued about this Dacron filler that Alex Comb apparently uses (Ekofill)...maybe that would be a good investment for me just to get since I want to eventually repaint the hull in its entirety. It being a customized Lilac color would be next to impossible to match at this point. I'm wondering if I were to redo the entire hull, would I wet sand to the Dacron (or the filler just above it), then reapply that Ekofill, and then wet sand and paint over that? Perhaps these are deep questions best directed to Alex Comb... I am hoping to speak with him in the upcoming week.

 

[yellowcanoe]

Any update? I will see its original owner tomorrow. She may ( just may) remember the filler used. Meanwhile its sad when two other boats of hers come to my house. Sometimes, even though its not likely we will ever use things again, they are hard to part with. We have the room to store boats just in case paddling is in her future after all.

 

[Brightraven]

Any update? I will see its original owner tomorrow. She may ( just may) remember the filler used. Meanwhile its sad when two other boats of hers come to my house. Sometimes, even though its not likely we will ever use things again, they are hard to part with. We have the room to store boats just in case paddling is in her future after all.

No update yet...have not done any work on it and have just been waiting...
Upon closer inspection it seems like it was touched up here and there over time with paint and even perhaps patched/taped in two areas underneath the paint (which is just barely visible).
Ideally, I’d like to have it gently sanded down and then professionally repainted by one who knows how to work with this type of craft. I’m seeking out and vetting various people I’ve been researching to entrust the boat to...we shall see. I would like it to look good and be in tip top shape for the Spring. If you get any info on the boat re: filler or other, I’d love to hear more!
Perhaps encouraging her to paddle could be very healing as it may wake up various neurons that produce joy as well as a rekindle old kinesthetic memories...?
On a separate note, I’m in the midst of remotely purchasing a Mistral, though there is so little information out there on this boat... do you have any fun stories to share?

 

[Mike McCrea]

Not “fun” stories, and I’m not trying to dis the canoe or the material, but early Mistrals had a disastrous construction/materials history. I believe that Esquif introduced Twintex around ‘05/06.

The first Mistrals produced had no reinforcing or stiffening in the floor area. Outfitter friends who test paddled one reported that the floor oil canned worse than any canoe they had ever seen, producing a boom like a bass drum.

Esquif’s remedy for that problem was to incorporate a stiffening floor layer. Of Balsa wood. Those early Mistrals could develop pin holes in the Twintex, allowing water to seep into the Balsa layer, with the expected consequences. The Balsa core “solution” lasted at least until 2008.

Esquif changed the Balsa to, IIRC, a honeycomb lattice of some impermeable material. Twintex itself had issues. The material doesn’t float and (at least) some Mistrals had no float tanks, so they were sinkers.

Twintex was very difficult to repair, or even outfit, so installing D-rings for floatation bags was problematic. There was a single shop in the US with technicians factory trained to do Twintex repairs with the appropriate techniques and materials.

Someone on Canoe Tripping might know the approximate dates of the various construction materials. I would be cautious about sight unseen remotely purchasing a Mistral.

 

[Brightraven]

Not “fun” stories, and I’m not trying to dis the canoe or the material, but early Mistrals had a disastrous construction/materials history. I believe that Esquif introduced Twintex around ‘05/06.

The first Mistrals produced had no reinforcing or stiffening in the floor area. Outfitter friends who test paddled one reported that the floor oil canned worse than any canoe they had ever seen, producing a boom like a bass drum.

Esquif’s remedy for that problem was to incorporate a stiffening floor layer. Of Balsa wood. Those early Mistrals could develop pin holes in the Twintex, allowing water to seep into the Balsa layer, with the expected consequences. The Balsa core “solution” lasted at least until 2008.

Esquif changed the Balsa to, IIRC, a honeycomb lattice of some impermeable material. Twintex itself had issues. The material doesn’t float and (at least) some Mistrals had no float tanks, so they were sinkers.

Twintex was very difficult to repair, or even outfit, so installing D-rings for floatation bags was problematic. There was a single shop in the US with technicians factory trained to do Twintex repairs with the appropriate techniques and materials.

Someone on Canoe Tripping might know the approximate dates of the various construction materials. I would be cautious about sight unseen remotely purchasing a Mistral.

While I appreciate knowing this, I’m wondering if we are talking about the same “Mistral”? I should have been more clear in my posting in that I was referring to a Loon Works Mistral... Is there any relationship between the two brands?

 

[yellowcanoe]

Not “fun” stories, and I’m not trying to dis the canoe or the material, but early Mistrals had a disastrous construction/materials history. I believe that Esquif introduced Twintex around ‘05/06.

The first Mistrals produced had no reinforcing or stiffening in the floor area. Outfitter friends who test paddled one reported that the floor oil canned worse than any canoe they had ever seen, producing a boom like a bass drum.

Esquif’s remedy for that problem was to incorporate a stiffening floor layer. Of Balsa wood. Those early Mistrals could develop pin holes in the Twintex, allowing water to seep into the Balsa layer, with the expected consequences. The Balsa core “solution” lasted at least until 2008.

Esquif changed the Balsa to, IIRC, a honeycomb lattice of some impermeable material. Twintex itself had issues. The material doesn’t float and (at least) some Mistrals had no float tanks, so they were sinkers.

Twintex was very difficult to repair, or even outfit, so installing D-rings for floatation bags was problematic. There was a single shop in the US with technicians factory trained to do Twintex repairs with the appropriate techniques and materials.

Someone on Canoe Tripping might know the approximate dates of the various construction materials. I would be cautious about sight unseen remotely purchasing a Mistral.

Loon Works had a Mistral.. Nothing to do with Esquif. Loon Works Mistral was a 15 foot flatwater tripper made in the traditional rib and plank covered with Dacron. It was related to the composite Bell Merlin II. Tom built relatively few Mistrals as there wasn't as much demand for trippers as for day tourers. He never built on spec but always to a clients order.

Esquif had some problems with the Balsa Twintex and I have a story.. its a diversion but a fun one. At Maine Canoe Symposium there is a Styles demo that presents a short synopsis of what will be covered in the on water workshops. One workshop was Canoe Rescue. Reid Maclachlan , Becky Masons hubby, was in the bow of the rescue canoe. The victim canoe was an Esquif of that early Twin Tex vintage. The "victim" paddler dumped it and Reid and partner paddled fast to get a hold of it( hamming it up a bit). Reid has an expressive face.. Just as he was going to grab the bow of the flooded boat it disappeared and sank.. Entirely.. The look on his face was priceless. We all were looking for just where did that boat go for what seemed like half a minute.. It emerged a bit some 50 feet away. I guess waterlogged Balsa does not float.

 

[Mike McCrea]

My mistake. I thought some cautions were in order for anyone pursuing a TwinTex Mistral.

That material received a lot of hype, and generated a lot of excitement, but ultimately proved a failure for more reasons that mentioned in the posts above. Some Twintex canoes delaminated, some of the WW oriented models had too much stress along the chines and would crack or splinter.

Combine that with the early Balsa, difficulties in repair or outfitting, sudden sinking, etc – not a material I would choose to own.

 

[Brightraven]

Thanks for the heads up about that particular model for any future notice or consideration!

 

[yellowcanoe]

My mistake. I thought some cautions were in order for anyone pursuing a TwinTex Mistral.

That material received a lot of hype, and generated a lot of excitement, but ultimately proved a failure for more reasons that mentioned in the posts above. Some Twintex canoes delaminated, some of the WW oriented models had too much stress along the chines and would crack or splinter.

Combine that with the early Balsa, difficulties in repair or outfitting, sudden sinking, etc – not a material I would choose to own.

Oh its a good cautionary tale and I agree with the lack of soundness for that Mistral.. It gets confusing. There are Herons. My Swift Heron has nothing to do with an Old Town Heron

 

[yellowcanoe]

Thanks for the heads up about that particular model for any future notice or consideration!

I just found out that Tom used ....wait for it.. Spackle for small abrasions that went through to the fabric.

 

[Brightraven]

Wow, I never would have guessed that!

 

[yellowcanoe]

Wow, I never would have guessed that!

me either. He was always practical. Now when it comes to reskinning spackle will not do but for little boo boos it is fine it seems. I am no repair guru..just a messenger!