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Old Town OCTA

We are going to try for the 1st coat of Epifanes tomorrow, and hoping to sand the outside hull smooth buy the weekend, then canvas on Monday or Tuesday, but cool temps and humidity set the schedule.

I'll make a good effort to document my system of canvasing.
 
Mihun, I'll check that out. I don't have any plans to recanvas a canoe in the near future, but I'm always interested in the techniques.

I'm sure there's a lot of folks who will stumble across this forum in the future or folks who don't say much here that will be interested in the finer points too.

The cedar canvas canoe is truly a marvelous way to travel, and I think the more details on how to build, refurbish, and maintain them the better.
 
I just looked through Mihun's thread. Really cool. I'm most interested in the cocktails you guys use to coat the canvas. Adding that silica sand seems really familiar with what I'm trying to add to epoxy in my abrasion test thread. That's what gets me excited about these canvas canoes. There is probably a whole book to be written on just canvas coatings!
 
I just looked through Mihun's thread. Really cool. I'm most interested in the cocktails you guys use to coat the canvas. Adding that silica sand seems really familiar with what I'm trying to add to epoxy in my abrasion test thread. That's what gets me excited about these canvas canoes. There is probably a whole book to be written on just canvas coatings!

People are experimenting with different canvas fillers of late. The silica flour we use is a substitute for the original white lead from the bygone era, safer and inexpensive. I know of some who are using latex lagging compounds, basic latex paint, basement sealer coatings, drywall mud, epoxy resins in different forms. The reasoning is primarily that the traditional filler takes about 4 weeks to cure at 60F. So, if we get canvas on the canoe this weekend and get the filler on it, it will be June before we can paint and finish. It dries like slate for abrasion resistance but remains somewhat flexible. The silica flour fills the weave of the canvas.
 
Bob sanded the outside of the hull this morning and then applied the 2nd coat of Epifanes. The hull came out really smooth for all the new plank we installed and the second coat of Epifanes looks very good, should be it for varnish, we only needed one quart of $50.00 Epifanes. One more quick check for any loose tacks tomorrow and into the canvas it goes.

Bob half way through the second coat of Epifanes (this picture dosn't do the varnish justice)


Still not a great shot, but it will show up nice later.



The new canvas going into the closepins. Lay the folded 60" canvas over the 1x2" ash plank, then lay a dowel down on the canvas and bring the canvas back over the plank and bolt a second plank to the first plank. The dowel prevents the canvas from slipping through the two planks when tension is applied.





Eyebolts in two of the barn timbers provide the anchors for the canvas and closepin rig.




Stretching the canvas with a come-along. It's important to make sure the folded canvas has the opening on top...:o



My barn isn't always this messy, too many projects in the works.



Sunday morning I will place the canoe in the canvas envelop, lay a rug inside the canoe and lay some rocks inside to aid in the stretching of the canvas. Wait 24 hours and start stapling Monday morning, if all goes well we will apply the filler then also.
 
At some point we will build a stretching rig in the shop so we can let the canvas stretch overnight like you do. When working outdoors between trees it is a matter of stretch, weight and get stapling.

I have the boat flipped over and just wetted down the hull to raise the grain before fairing the hull, it helps bring out the hammer blooms and should make fairing a tad easier. Christine may get to that tomorrow. I'm still ill so not going to complicate already messed up lungs with white cedar dust. After fairing and fixing proud tacks we will put a coat of varnish on the exterior before canvas. We have done oil in the past but didn't like it so now varnish every time before canvas. Interesting to note the Epifanes is about the same price here.

With thunderstorms in the forecast for tomorrow, canvas may wait until Sunday then we will also apply the mildewcide and fill next weekend most likely.

I like your rig better than mine. I use 2x4's and staple the canvas to one board before clamping them together, but yours is a more dedicated set up.

If that is a roto-tiller in the background, we need you to swing by and till up our gardens for us. 1900 sq ft of vegetable gardens with a bunch of new area added this year.
 
I know what you mean that the picture doesnt do the Epifanes varnish justice. I put two coats of cheap varnish on as base coats and it looked ok. I added a top coat of Epifanes and wow, what a difference. That stuff gives off this golden glow when you are done, crystal clear too. Worth every penny.

Christy
 
Cleaning up the stem:
I learned this from the canoes owner Dennis.

Old wood canvas canoes that have been restored a few times end up with alot of tack holes in the hardwood stem. One way of cleaning the stem up is to glue toothpicks into the holes and then sand them flat after the Tightbond III dries,





Hard to see, but the tack holes are now full and ready for the canvasing,

 
Today was a big day and all went well.

We trimmed off the excess canvas above the gunnels so that we could get a good grip with the canvas stretchers, although the canoe remains suspended in the stretched tight canvas between the clothespins.



Sometimes we stretched and stapled by ourselves,



Other times we worked as a tem, one stretching, the other stapling,



We stapled almost to each end of the canoe before we removed the rocks and cut the canvas free of the stretching apparatus,





Outside on horses, we flipped the canoe over and prepared the stems for staples. Bob sliced the canvas from near where the stem starts on the bottom to the end of the canvas. This is a very critical slice, if you cut it wrong you could ruin the whole canvas. He had to cut the canvas so it fit just over the stem for the first line of staples,



Then the second side is stapled down and trimmed.


You must be careful to avoid wrinkles in the canvas a tight fit all around is a must. Looks good here.



Looks good here too, those wrinkles by the staples will flatten out with the filler,



Now that's a tight smooth fit,.we where both very pleased with the outcome,



Now the filler needs to be applied. This seals the canvas and makes it water proof. I like the Northwoods Canoe of Maine logo on the can, very neat.



The filler is thick and must be stirred to a thick paint like substace, then spread on the canoe and rubbed in as you go. 3 continuous coats and it's done.







Notice the wrinkles by the stem staples have flattened out.

"Hey Robin"
"What's that Bob?"
"Do these shorts make my arse look big?"




Now we have to wait 30-40 days depending on nightime temps for the filler to cure, then sand and paint and finish the trim.
 
Looks great Fellas!
I have the same problem Bob and tried to blame my shorts too, but I know now that my arse makes my arse look big.
I bet there's been some good laughs during the restoration.
 
Do you treat the overlap on the stems at all? I usually use some Ambroid glue on the lap. put it down, let it tack up, put some more down then do the second layer.
 
You make it look so easy. Great looking shape...the canoe I mean. Not the arse. Sorry, I'm more of a leg man myself.
 
Do you treat the overlap on the stems at all? I usually use some Ambroid glue on the lap. put it down, let it tack up, put some more down then do the second layer.
No, we just used the filler. It layed down pretty good and I rubbed it a few times this afternoon. It looks good and it's no doubt well sealed.

Dennis, Bob is my son's father-in-law, we share 3 granddaughters, but I'm a Mets/Jets Chestnut guy, he's a Yankee/Giants Morris/EM White guy. We do have alot of fun working on canoes though
 
None of my fillers have been that thick, which I believe has been part of our issues of late. Considering we make our own from a recipe from the WCHA I'm thinkin the basic issue is the "modern" paint used is less viscous and then we add thinners and it just becomes soup. Next batch we aim for something I could use a squeegee with.
 
We have a fella here at the local Lee Valley that has a canoe in a barn we can have, next time we get down to Nova Scotia.
 
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