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Happy Mathematics Day! ❌📐♾️
Northwest Passage Solo
- Thread starter wysedav
- Start date
Alan, I think what you're seeing is the patina on the upper surface of the gunwales (dried up pickle juice?) I kind like it looks neat and seems pretty durable, unfortunately I didn't align the seam perfectly so I'm going to have to take it down to bare wood. I'm not sure if I like the bright wood, it looks like Southern Yellow Pine to me, debating on staining it.
Thanks Mihun, I think it looks good too, unfortunately the glassing isn't perfect some starved and milky areas on the outside that I'm going to leave as is because I'm lazy.
Thanks Jim -- I love pickles! (dill)
Thanks Mihun, I think it looks good too, unfortunately the glassing isn't perfect some starved and milky areas on the outside that I'm going to leave as is because I'm lazy.
Thanks Jim -- I love pickles! (dill)
That's a pretty boat! Love the low weight...
You're only gonna add a couple thwarts and a seat, right? So, final weight maybe 2 lbs heavier?
Any special plans for the first launching?
You're only gonna add a couple thwarts and a seat, right? So, final weight maybe 2 lbs heavier?
Any special plans for the first launching?
Ok I'm back. Just finished building a piesafe donation for my daughter's school. So now I can get back to important stuff!
I need help with the seat in this canoe, I think it will be Cypress with a curved front. According to the designer I should place ithe front of the seat an inch or two behind the centerline of the canoe. If I do that, what do I do for the carrying thwart? I'm thInking maybe a fold forward backrest that converts to a carry pad.
SG. I think this might cost me more than 2 lbs.
I need help with the seat in this canoe, I think it will be Cypress with a curved front. According to the designer I should place ithe front of the seat an inch or two behind the centerline of the canoe. If I do that, what do I do for the carrying thwart? I'm thInking maybe a fold forward backrest that converts to a carry pad.
SG. I think this might cost me more than 2 lbs.
Detachable carrying thwart?
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I made a jig to bend the front of the seat. Just eyeballed the curve, about an inch and a quarter drop about 16" wide. I ripped the cypress to about 3/16" thick. Crosssection is about 1 1/8" x 1 1/4" deep. Used titebond for the glue. I may redo with epoxy depending how this looks when it's finished drying.
I made a jig to bend the front of the seat. Just eyeballed the curve, about an inch and a quarter drop about 16" wide. I ripped the cypress to about 3/16" thick. Crosssection is about 1 1/8" x 1 1/4" deep. Used titebond for the glue. I may redo with epoxy depending how this looks when it's finished drying.
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At only 1 or 2" Aft of center, I'm afraid you will be bow heavy, unless you are planning on storing a lot of weight in the stern.
All of my solos are 5-6" aft of center. This trims the canoe great with just a paddler, and no gear.
Your frame shape looks great. It should be comfy !
Here's some seat pics.
The center of my canoe, is the center of the white dot (Moon), the seat is about 5 1/2" aft of center.
Top pic is yoke in portage position.. This perfectly balances the canoe.
yoke in back rest position.
I vary my thwarts anywhere from 24 - 28" in front of the leading edge, of the seat.
Hope this helps !
Jim
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I'm afraid Jim might be right, an inch or two behind the centre line doesn't seem quite right given the shape of that hull ... a simple way to establish trim is to use a milk crate as a seat prior to fixing your permanent seat; you will quickly notice performance changes as you move forward and aft.
I wouldn't worry too much about a carrying yoke, removable or otherwise. That boat should be light enough that you can rest the front of the seat against the back of your neck.
I wouldn't worry too much about a carrying yoke, removable or otherwise. That boat should be light enough that you can rest the front of the seat against the back of your neck.
Last night I let my impatience get the best of me, after about four hours I pulled the glue up off the form. Almost immediately it started to delaminate. I quickly put it back in the form, hoping for the best. This AM I took a look, it started out ok but when I loaded it up it delaminated in the sharpest bent area. Afterwards I put it between two buckets at ~36" and it still took my 200lbs without any more cracks even with me bouncing (moderately) on it.
I just ripped some new strips and glued with epoxy this time, I think this will be stronger. I'm pretty sure the Titebond would have worked if I waited longer, the plastic wrap must have slowed down the drying process. I didn't use any thickener in my epoxy i hope it's not a problem.
Gotta say I love my bandsaw, I just ripped all the strips in about 5 minutes, all within 0.005" the whole length. About as fast as I could push it through the saw. I was amazed, I can see now how SG uses it to make strips for an entire boat. I think the key is the new blade I have it's a Timberwolf 1/2" ripping blade...cuts like butter.
I just ripped some new strips and glued with epoxy this time, I think this will be stronger. I'm pretty sure the Titebond would have worked if I waited longer, the plastic wrap must have slowed down the drying process. I didn't use any thickener in my epoxy i hope it's not a problem.
Gotta say I love my bandsaw, I just ripped all the strips in about 5 minutes, all within 0.005" the whole length. About as fast as I could push it through the saw. I was amazed, I can see now how SG uses it to make strips for an entire boat. I think the key is the new blade I have it's a Timberwolf 1/2" ripping blade...cuts like butter.
See, I told you....
I spent the first part of my working career as an apprenticeship trained toolmaker, 6,800 hours of on the job training along with 3,400 hours class training (free college, for me). With the right set up, you'd be amazed what a band saw can do. I used to fabricate many parts from Inconel (X750, IN718, IN625) generally miserable material to work with. I would crank up the surface speed on a band saw and friction cut the Inconel alloys like they were marshmallow!! It was pretty cool!
As for your seat delamination, the Titebond joints need to breathe, or you need a half a week. Gotta be careful with epoxied joints, they don't like too much pressure. Depending on how much load is required to shape your laminations, you could end up with epoxy starved joints.
And wait!! Where's the photos?? This is killing me!
Do you have any photos showing the full hull? Has it seen daylight yet?
And I don't remember seeing anything of the bulkheads or flotation chambers...
And I don't remember seeing anything of the bulkheads or flotation chambers...
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I need some guidance. I'm fitting up my seat, I was planning on using cleats but as you can see from the picture I'm really close to the gunwales. Maybe I should hang it?? In the picture I have about7.5 inches between the seat and the hull. If I trimmed it a little I could get 8.5" and be about1.5 inches from the gunwale. I think I icould angle the hanger bolts in towards the center of he boat so I wouldn't have to enlarge the gunwale.
Opinions?
Also, do I really need another thwart? Seems really stiff already and the seat will help.
Thanks.
I need some guidance. I'm fitting up my seat, I was planning on using cleats but as you can see from the picture I'm really close to the gunwales. Maybe I should hang it?? In the picture I have about7.5 inches between the seat and the hull. If I trimmed it a little I could get 8.5" and be about1.5 inches from the gunwale. I think I icould angle the hanger bolts in towards the center of he boat so I wouldn't have to enlarge the gunwale.
Opinions?
Also, do I really need another thwart? Seems really stiff already and the seat will help.
Thanks.
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Are you planning to sit, kneel, or both? I find anything over 7" from the bottom of the seat to the hull to be a bit tippy in rough water when sitting in a hull this wide.
I have narrow inwales (about 1/2") with a lot of round over and I'm planning to hang the seats from the gunwales. If you wait a few days you can see how big of a disaster it is before deciding what to do about yours.....or maybe I'll drag my feet and see how yours comes out.
Alan
I have narrow inwales (about 1/2") with a lot of round over and I'm planning to hang the seats from the gunwales. If you wait a few days you can see how big of a disaster it is before deciding what to do about yours.....or maybe I'll drag my feet and see how yours comes out.
Alan
Dave, I just mounted the seat in my CF Nokomis.
From the top of my seat front, to the top of my inwhale, is about, 4". The back is about 5/8" less. This makes the seat much more comfortable !
I Drilled my hanger bolt holes, as straight up and down as I could. This way , if I want to change the seat height, everything should line up.
If you angle drill, you are bound to stay at that height , unless you redrill .
My hull is tumblehomed similar to yours. I 'll go to the shop, and get some pics of Nokomis's seat today.
Jim
From the top of my seat front, to the top of my inwhale, is about, 4". The back is about 5/8" less. This makes the seat much more comfortable !
I Drilled my hanger bolt holes, as straight up and down as I could. This way , if I want to change the seat height, everything should line up.
If you angle drill, you are bound to stay at that height , unless you redrill .
My hull is tumblehomed similar to yours. I 'll go to the shop, and get some pics of Nokomis's seat today.
Jim
