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Nokomis Wood Workers First Canoe Build

Spent a little time with the camera, and brought up some pics of the progress on the build.
Sorry about the backwards order !

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Dragon's Teeth ! Used the clamp the Outwhales, near the stems. The Teeth, keep the clamps from slipping off the ends !
This method allows me to attach the Outwhales, without any Fasteners showing !

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Inwhales are glued and screwed. This will be hidden by the Outwhales.

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We started the canoe raffle at the County Fair. Here's a pic of our Club founder, manning the booth.
Note, the Trusty Skilsaw on the table.
The poster was made by a friend and his wife, who built and documented, two solos in one Summer, First time builders !

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Nice work!
I know you may have already stated this, but what are the proceeds of the raffle going towards?
 
Nice work!
I know you may have already stated this, but what are the proceeds of the raffle going towards?

Thanks Sven !
The proceeds go to support the club ! We have several things going on now, including White boards for individual student use at the schools. and hands on building bird houses for the Girl Scouts. Not to mention paying the bills for the shop.
 
I took a few more pics yesterday.

The ends of the glued on outwhales. I hate voids !
The dimensions of outwhale are, 3/4"x 5/8", with a dado cut of 1/4"x1/2". Leaving a 1/4" lip, and 3/8" beyond the hull. The only thing I use a table saw for !
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Capped gunnels. This completely seals the hull and Outwhale, keeping out moisture, that is soo destructive !
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Backrest and pivot blocks, that will be mounted under the inwhale.

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Making progress, a lot like a Turtle !

I have the trim completed, and now sanding in order to finish.

I wanted to share something, That I learned by accident !
If you take note of the backrest, you should see I rounded the ends, so they fit into the round holes in the brackets. While the shoulder of the cross piece was left squared.
I cut the cross piece long enough so there is a slight inward pressure put on this joint.This tends to hold the backrest, either vertical, or horizontal, depending on how you twist it. It is a benefit of leaving the cross piece with a squared shoulder.
As usual here is some pics that I hope will illustrate better than my words !

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Second coat of varnish is on the Shop's canoe.
The question comes up often, if varnish will hide the weave of the cloth ?
Some believe another coat of epoxy is necessary. It's not. at least as I see it !
The leading edge of the canoe, has 4 layers of cloth. You can see 3 of them here. They are just feathered before varnish.

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Wow!

That thing is shiny. Looks like you did a mighty fine job of varnishing.


I switched to Varathane's Spar Varnish.
Time will tell how it holds up, but like it so far .
My brushing Technic is improving, thanks to Nick Schade, from the Guillemot site

I want to check out the new stuff, that Patrick's Dad, over at the Bear Mountain site is using. Sounds good !

Jim
 
The Canoe is ready for the drawing
The Club decided to raffle it for $10 a ticket, with a 500 ticket limit. We will have the drawing on Nov. 7, Election day. That way if winner loses at the Polls, he will Still be a Winner !;)

If we don't sell all the tickets, we will still have the drawing, we've only sold about 85 so far.

We have a gracious Auto Dealer/ Canoe Rental, that graciously agreed to display the canoe, as well as sell tickets !
Money to go to supporting the Nokomis Wood Working Club, here in town.
Enough Blabbering, here's a couple of pics.

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Jim the boat looks great! Looking at your gunnels and am wondering what you dimensions are for the spacing scuppers are as well as your inwale dimensions, i see you got the outwale dims i the post above. Looks really good with the scupper blocks being a different species. Thinking about doing a similar thing on the freedom, one of theses years :)
 
Jim the boat looks great! Looking at your gunnels and am wondering what you dimensions are for the spacing scuppers are as well as your inwale dimensions, i see you got the outwale dims i the post above. Looks really good with the scupper blocks being a different species. Thinking about doing a similar thing on the freedom, one of theses years :)

Hi Ben

The spacers are 3/8" thick, walnut. The Ash inwhale is also 3/8" thick .. Making for a combined 3/4" thick inwhale .

The outwhale started as 5/8" thick, but was reduced by 1/4" to Cap the hull. That leaves the outwhale at 3/8".

I use this on all my solos. For a Tandem, I might make the outwhale a little thicker.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim, i am thinking about what to do for my freedom 17. Was heavily leaning towards scuppered gunnels but just the specifics were not there. Was thinking about cutting a large cove out of one piece for the inwales but i may go your route. I am doing cherry to save a bit of weight and was wondering what you are think of having aspen as the spacers in the inwale scuppers? Also what is the spacing between the walnut and how long are they? They look great being a bit bigger just dont know how long a gap to have between them.

thanks again and sorry for the thread drift. :)
 
Ben something I always did when we were building was to use the seat cross rails as a guide for the scupper spacing. For example, if the bolts for the seats were 12" apart, then the scuppers would be laid out so the 12" would be centered on spacers rather than a space.
 
Hi Ben

Aspen should be fine for spacers. Some times I go for contrast, and some times I keep the wood species the same.

I plan where my seats and thwarts will be, and then adjust spacer sizes, and gap distances accordingly.

Each hull is different. For the Nokomis build, I used a 5" gap, with a 6 1/2" spacer. For my Pearl I used a 5" spacer, and a 7" gap.

Generally spacers are bigger for the seats and thwarts to hang from.

There are a lot of different ways to gunnel a hull. On my very first build, I ruined one gunnel trying to cut scuppers with a router, (poor technic !) Since I've just cut spacers, and glued them to the inwhale.

Good Luck Ben !

Jim
 
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