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New Pal

Thanks Doug. I have a lot of pics of that canoe but wanted one that said "tripping". That was my first wood canvas canoe, I bought it from Schuyler Thomson and he showed/helped me do my first restoration. He said it made a good all round canoe, tripping, solo, tandem. He was right, it weighs about 65lbs, but in the picture above it had an old canvas and also a bad stem band leak, it must have weighed 70-75 lbs at the end of the trip. Good thing is, I put on a new canvas/replaced some broken ribs and plank after the trip and it was good as new.

Today it sits on the rack waiting for yet another restoration, rode hard and put away wet.

Hope this is ok, love talkin' Pal's and didn't man to hijack the thread.


over 25 new ribs and new inwales, it's a sentimental thing.

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Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder !

I totally agree !

I like to play with strip combinations to a point ! Mostly to make me happy, and that's what it's all about !

If it appeals to others that's fine too ! If not I'm not offended, and perfectly content with what I've built !

I also build to PADDLE ! And that My Friends is what it's really about !!!

Getting me out on the water !

Jim
 
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Red Pal

I finally got back to finishing up my latest Pal build. I did a number of short solo trips in my Kite in may and early June, but I was able to get the pal out on the water a couple more times before the end of June to settle on seat heights so I have something to do while I recover from surgery.

I removed the seats and had my friend Norm come over and haul the boat out into the yard and I went at it with some 120 grit on the ros.

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I probably could have spent more time getting the hull smoother, but as I've said before, my canoes get used and abused so any imperfections will be hidden by gouges, scratches, strap marks, dents and patches in the future.

The paint is Interlux Brightside in the only red they make. I rolled the paint and tipped it off with a foam brush. The paint is thinner than I'm used to, but it went on smooth and all the overlaps and brush marks levelled out beautifully with no drips or sagging. Probably the nicest paint I've worked with and the most expensive. Here it is after the first coat with wood still showing through.

1563456347008_IMG_1462-01.jpeg

At this point I knew that 2 more coats certainly wouldn't hide the wood completely, but maybe that's ok. My wife liked this look and thought I should stop right here. The wood isn't hidden enough for me.

The second coat didnt go on quite as good. It's dry as heck here in Montana and the combination of it being a little warmer, my trying to cover too large an area at a time, and the remaining paint in the can likely having lost a little of its original consistency, I ended up with slight brush marks and a few noticeable overlaps when tipping off.

After 2 coats.
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The third coat went on better. It was cooler, I thinned the paint a little with mineral spirits, and I painted in smaller sections.

After the third and final coat.
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The strips just barely show through now. If I hadn't used such contrasting strips in the first place I doubt they would be noticeable. Using primer for the first coat would have probably made the final coat opaque.

The paint problem was mostly operator error. I didn't sand between Coats, I just scuffed with a scotch brite pad which likely added to the brush marks showing through, although they're barely noticeable on the final coat. I suspected this, but did confirm to myself that it's more difficult to get a good finish with a solid paint color than varnish.

The only other thing I did was to add a couple scraps of stem band to the ends to give it that cedar canvas look, and as a practical way to protect the stem tip.
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You can also see that I drilled holes for painter lines prior to painting. Just a little more epoxy work on the inside, varnish and this one is finished. In retrospect I kind of regret using all the contrasting wood for strips and trim. I was really just trying to save a little weight using the spruce and cherry but I ended up with a little bit of a Frankenstein woodworking project. Not my intention.

Mark
 
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Ok now, that is a very pretty boat. Yes the contrasting strips dont work as well in a solid outer colour, but it all flows together nicely anyway. Good job.
 
Paint looks great, I really like that Interlux Brightside, I just painted a fiberglass canoe from red to black. Beautiful Canoe.
 
Paint looks great, I really like that Interlux Brightside, I just painted a fiberglass canoe from red to black. Beautiful Canoe.

I paid $38 for a quart last year, but I just looked at the fisheries supply website, where I buy it in seattle and the price is up to $42. Im not sure if i can justify that in the future with rustoleum going for less than $9.
 
It looks great!. In the furniture world, people will pay big bucks for a "distressed" paint job where the wood shows through a lot more than that!
 
I paid $38 for a quart last year, but I just looked at the fisheries supply website, where I buy it in seattle and the price is up to $42. Im not sure if i can justify that in the future with rustoleum going for less than $9.

I know it's expensive (Interlux Briteside) but I just painted this MR fiberglass canoe from red to black. This is the first coat, I added some 333 Interlux Brushing liquid to the paint and used a 4" foam brush, first coat covered well. I'll sand with 220 and apply the second coat after I finish the wood work.

I paid $100 for 3 qts from Wholesale Marine and got free shipping.
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Robin that looks like you got good coverage with that paint on the first coat. I assume you’ll do 2 more. I’ll have to look into wholesale marine, much more reasonable price.

Mark
 
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