Making Cedar Strips

[Jim Dodd]

I would say .045" is too far. I don't regularly check thickness any more ! As you stated routing the bead and cove brings the differences to light, and will tell you if your strips are off. Over the years, I remember scraping only a few strips, due to thickness.
To me,strip thickness is important. Uniformity saves a lot of sanding.
Routing strips is another topic for discussion, soon !
I remember before I wised up to Bead and Cove, how my strips would slip at the glue joints. I know the hull was only a 1/8" thick, in places, by the time I was finished sanding. Not good ! Especially when the strips were 1/4" thick to start !

Jim

 

[Cruiser]

The last batch of strips I made, I set the saw gap (guide to blade) and cut a few strips, they measured ~0.0265" .

I went a little overboard because I had a new planer to play with ... I took 1 side to 0.2575" and then turned them over and went final 0.250" ..... there didn't appear to be low or high spots that didn't get a slight trim, on either side. The end product has no discernible thin spots, so I know that the thickness variance couldn't be very much.

I really think if you pay attention to the cut and keep the guide tight to the board, the strips stay very consistent using the skilsaw, but like all methods ... it is likely dependent on how careful you are with keeping the guide on the board and making sure you cut without forcing the saw.


Brian

 

[sailsman63]

Thanks for the extra info on this technique, Jim Dodd. You've got me convinced to try it on my next build.

One thing that concerns me: That saw will eventually kickback, either from unexpected grain changes in the wood, or from accidentally pulling the saw out of line. When it does, your stance and cutting location are going to place you right in its path, and the lack of guard could cause some serious trouble. (I remember seeing what a skillsaw almost did to my dad when the guard stuck. He only walked away because of his thick winter coverall)

For anyone who is just learning, and/or is not very experienced with a skillsaw: Please do not use the visegrip as a handle or stand on the blade side of the rig. Instead, stand on the back side of the strongback, so that your legs are shielded, and have your left hand on the fore-grip of the saw, with the trigger grip in your right.

 

[Jim Dodd]

Thanks for the extra info on this technique, Jim Dodd. You've got me convinced to try it on my next build.

One thing that concerns me: That saw will eventually kickback, either from unexpected grain changes in the wood, or from accidentally pulling the saw out of line. When it does, your stance and cutting location are going to place you right in its path, and the lack of guard could cause some serious trouble. (I remember seeing what a skillsaw almost did to my dad when the guard stuck. He only walked away because of his thick winter coverall)

For anyone who is just learning, and/or is not very experienced with a skillsaw: Please do not use the visegrip as a handle or stand on the blade side of the rig. Instead, stand on the back side of the strongback, so that your legs are shielded, and have your left hand on the fore-grip of the saw, with the trigger grip in your right.

To be truthful, I've seen more injuries caused by tablesaws. A Skilsaw to me is less dangerous. But Yes the blade guard is pretty much useless, when cutting 1/4" strips. The blade on a skilsaw will not throw wood, like a tablesaw. I've had some close calls with my tablesaw.

Any power tool has risks. I'm quite comfortable with the vise grip handle, but every builder needs to make their own decisions !

Jim

 

[latremorej]

Yes a skill saw can kick back. Although the chances of it happening while ripping 3/4" soft cedar down to 1/4" strips are not as high as say a 3/4" piece of outdoor grade plywood, or any thick chunk of hardwood. All, and I mean all, of my kick backs using a skill saw have been due to binding. Usually when cutting down full sheets of plywood that aren't properly supported, or while I'm reaching farther than I should across said sheet (resulting in turning the saw in the middle of the cut) I've also had a couple close calls with 2x6" framing material, which again, I was too lazy, or in a hurry, to properly support the cut off end. Which causes the saw to bind and kick. Of course it can happen, but with what I see in Jim's system is that everything is supported and you are following a guide so turning the saw is less likely to happen. Of course, this is the Internet, and every person out there possibly reading this is not a carpenter so safety warnings, however not likely needed, are still needed I guess.

M2C

Jason

 

[Jim Dodd]

I agree Jason !
I always have a little chill run down my spine, when I pull the trigger, or flip a switch on a power tool. It's a good thing, and it reminds me to be on guard.
Jim

 

[Sven]

I have been using power tools since the age of 10, the mindset that was instilled in me from an early age was to "respect and not fear" the tool for what it can do, and that it doesn't know the difference between wood or flesh. Quite honestly in 20+ years of carpentry work my worst injuries have been from utility knives....
Every power tool carries inherent risks for injury. That being said, the most dangerous of tools in my book are tablesaw and framing nailer set with bump fire trigger.
Having the guard stuck open on a skil saw is a little risky, the thing to keep in mind is that you can hurt yourself even with a closed guard.
Rule of thumb: always pay attention to what you are doing and respect your tools for what they are capable of.
I will end my rant with this.....I have ripped many thin strips on a tablesaw over the years. I would like to thank Jim for putting this idea out there as a take it or leave it. I will never rip another strip over 10' long on a tablesaw.
Again, thanks Jim for sharing your knowledge!

 

[Jim Dodd]

This Summer, I dug all my strip cutting Skilsaws, and did an informal review.

Had just picked up six 1" x 15" x 18 1/2' Ash planks for making full length gunnels.

I set up several saws, to cut at different thickness. 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 5/8"

They all preformed great, with the exception of a Delta.
The Delta had too much flex between the base, and the body of the saw, for my liking !

Here is a pic.




The first is my Trusty Makita 13 amp. This saw has cut 1/4" strips for close to 20 canoes, and still going strong.

Next is a new Skil brand skilsaw, that has had little use, but works great ! All these saws took their turn at the Ash plank.

Third, a Porter Cable 15 amp, that again has seen little use.

Fourth a Hitachi 15 amp same story as the previous two.

Lastly an old Sears 14 amp saw. This is my second most used 1/4" strip cutting saw. A winner for sure !

I purchased these saws whenever I found a great deal on them. Anywhere from $50 - $90, with the exception of the Makita, paid $127 for it in the mid 90s. Funny how circular saws have gone down in price !

Anyone looking to buy a Skilsaw to cut strips won't go wrong with any of these saws !

The Delta is used for less precise cutting.



Jim

 

[Canotrouge]

This Summer, I dug all my strip cutting Skilsaws, and did an informal review.

Had just picked up six 1" x 15" x 18 1/2' Ash planks for making full length gunnels.

I set up several saws, to cut at different thickness. 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 5/8"

They all preformed great, with the exception of a Delta.
The Delta had too much flex between the base, and the body of the saw, for my liking !

Here is a pic.




The first is my Trusty Makita 13 amp. This saw has cut 1/4" strips for close to 20 canoes, and still going strong.

Next is a new Skil brand skilsaw, that has had little use, but works great ! All these saws took their turn at the Ash plank.

Third, a Porter Cable 15 amp, that again has seen little use.

Fourth a Hitachi 15 amp same story as the previous two.

Lastly an old Sears 14 amp saw. This is my second most used 1/4" strip cutting saw. A winner for sure !

I purchased these saws whenever I found a great deal on them. Anywhere from $50 - $90, with the exception of the Makita, paid $127 for it in the mid 90s. Funny how circular saws have gone down in price !

Anyone looking to buy a Skilsaw to cut strips won't go wrong with any of these saws !

The Delta is used for less precise cutting.



Jim

I bet that Makita is made in Japan and all the others in China or similar!

 

[BWCA66]

Jim,

I'm going to try the skill saw method this winter for cutting strips. Where did you find 18' Ash?

 

[dogbrain]

Hah, funny you bring this thread back to life Jim. It must be strip cutting season. I got out my Hitachi 15amp saw yesterday and put the strongback out in the back yard to cut strips if the weather cooperates. My only problem with this saw, and I think they're all like this, is the dust ejection. When cutting 3/4" stock the hole is up high and sprays the sawdust right out at you. I'm going to try and tape something on there that sends it more in the downward direction, but hopefully not on to the plank. May or may not work.

Mark

 

[Jim Dodd]

Yes ! Japan quality shines through with the older Makita.
Betting the new ones are made in China.

Another great tool,
lost to the Chinese, is the "Pony" brand spring clamps. I bought a few at Menards. They look pretty close to the originals, but are marked made in China.

 

[Jim Dodd]

Hah, funny you bring this thread back to life Jim. It must be strip cutting season. I got out my Hitachi 15amp saw yesterday and put the strongback out in the back yard to cut strips if the weather cooperates. My only problem with this saw, and I think they're all like this, is the dust ejection. When cutting 3/4" stock the hole is up high and sprays the sawdust right out at you. I'm going to try and tape something on there that sends it more in the downward direction, but hopefully not on to the plank. May or may not work.

Mark

Hi Mark !

Yes, I've suffered with the Dust Blow ! I wear a 3M canister mask, but am always covered in saw dust when done cutting strips !

Porter Cable made their Skilsaws with a spout, that you could direct the flow of dust.
I never acquired one, so I can't say if they were effective.

Let us know how the tape works ! It is an issue that needs to be addressed !

Jim

 

[dogbrain]

I didn’t get out to cut strips today, a little too much white stuff falling from the sky.

 

[enelson8]

I came across this blog from a fellow in Sweden building an Ashes solo day canoe. Lod traced his canoe building from beginning to end, and shows details of his fixtures and techniques. There are a lot of pictures and details showing every step along the way. I believe Lod uses the skilsaw technique for cutting strips.

Erik