Knife project

[Rippy]

Yesterday I got Stabby glued up. Today I sawed and sanded the handle to the profile shape. This helps to have a reference point before rounding the handle. I also mushroomed the rear bolster pins. It is still blocky as you can see in the last picture but it's getting closer.

Mem likes Cat In The Hat descriptions so here goes.

Looky here. There's those hands. There's those hands that sand and sand. Sanding on old Stabby again.

Why's he do this? Why's he sand? Cause Stabby doesn't fit his hand. He's a very fussy man.

Why's Stabby laying like he's dead? Cause sanding hands just went to bed. Good night.

 

[memaquay]

Oh man, yur killing me! Stabby would look great on the Grinch!

 

[Alan Gage]

Nice, nice, nice!

Is it difficult to evenly sand a mix of metal and wood or are the metal sections thin enough that it's not a problem?

Alan

 

[Rippy]

Good question Alan. The wood disappears allot faster then the metal. Not so much of a problem yet because of the radius of the 8" contact wheel doesn't want to dig in much. For the next operation I will be sanding on the lose belt section of the sander and the belt edges will want to dig in to the wood. I will cover this and show some techniques to solve this problem. Dave

 

[Odyssey]

Okay, I'm struggling with this.You mushroom the pins, but then grind that area down. Doesn't the mushroomed pin head get removed?
Or are they countersunk?

My question's quite plain,
though it might sound inane,
but if Rippy can't answer I'll go quite insane!

 

[Rippy]

Well Brad I wouldn't want you to go insane so I will explain. Mushrooming the pins was probably a poor choice of words although that is what happens in the process. Firstly, when fastening a finger guard or a bolster I do not countersink the hole. What I am actually doing is driving the pin material down into the hole and creating a press fit. In the process the hole actually spreads a little in a taper. Think of re-handling an axe. When you drive in the wooden wedge it spreads the handle wood sideways. When it's tight enough you cut off the excess wedge material. With the guard pins I hammered on them till the material around the hole started to actually swell upward telling me that the pins were tapering the holes and forcing material out. Then I sand off the excess pin length. As I shape the guard or bolster the now tapered pin stays tight. Great question, you must be really paying attention.

 

[memaquay]

"Hello".
"Hello".
"Do you like my knife?"
"Yes, I Iike your knife".
"Goodbye".
"Goodbye"

GO DAWG GO!

 

[Rippy]

Thank you,,, thank you very much. (in an Elvis voice)

 

[Rippy]

Here is where I left off last time. Stabby Joe was still blocky looking and needed some serious sanding done to his handle area.

Starting with a sharp 60 grit belt I sanded in the finger guard area first. I am using a "slack belt" area of the sander. If you recall I already rough sanded the finger guard to shape. Now using the finger guard as a guide I will sand the wood down and blend them together. I have to keep the edge of the belt on the metal so it doesn't dig in to the wood. Also it helps to have the knife somewhat diagonal to the belt so the edge doesn't dig in.

Here you can see that the wood finally meets the finger guard. Next to shape the bolster end of the knife.

The rear bolster is a long ways from where it needs to be. I will shape the rear bolster as I shape the wood.

To get the shape I want I changed to my 3/4" wheel.

Here is a close up so you can see what I'm doing better.

That should hook my little finger just fine.

I switched to a 120 grit belt as I'm getting closer to size. The rear bolster is reduced to its approximate size. It just needs some rounding on the end.

Sand and look, sand and look. Keep both sides symmetrical in profile. Feel with your fingers for lumps. Hold in your hand. Sand till it looks and feels right.

This is as far as I will power sand Stabby. Sand by hand from here on in.

One way to keep a belt from digging in is to take a old scissor and make the edge wavy.

Here is another wavy belt. this one is for getting in tight spots like the finger guard hook.

Stabby Joe will hang out for a while so his newly exposed wood can settle. When you remove this much wood even well seasoned wood can shrink a little causing slightly higher metal edges that feel sharp when you drag your finger across them. He will have two weeks minimum of R&R before finish sanding the wood and polishing the nickle silver. In the mean time I might start the knife sheath.

Or maybe I'll watch Memaquay work on his Chum while Stabby's chilling .

Anyway, Stabby Joe is looking the way I pictured him and he fits Mr. Sanding Hands hand.
Later friends

 

[Canotrouge]

Looks good and comfortable!!

 

[Rippy]

Well Stabby's wood didn't seem to shrink so I finished him up. I will sharpen him after I get a sheath made. I need to take some out door pictures in the day light. Maybe try battoning while I'm out there.


Before

After

 

[Hanz]

Fantastic Job! Really looks great. Be careful, I think it's out for blood!

 

[Holmes375]

Fantastic! A beautiful and functional knife. Bravo, sir!

 

[memaquay]

Stabby is a thing of beauty!

Stab, Stabby, stab!

 

[Odyssey]

My goodness, that's a beautiful result of craftsmanship and skill. And patience. And knowledge. I'm glad you allowed friends looking over your shoulder throughout this project. I've really enjoyed it.
My wife just looked over my shoulder and said "That's a work of art." Yes it is. It sure is.

 

[Rippy]

Thank you all for your kind comments. Dave

 

[Iskweo]

Wheeew...that is one eye catching piece of work.

 

[Alan Gage]

I don't know how to whistle through a keyboard so you'll just have to use your imagination. Very impressive.

Alan

 

[Canotrouge]

Wow, great work on the knife!! Is now time for a sheet??

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Very impressed, if not intimidated, by your craftsmanship skills, Rippy, and the aesthetics of the final product.