Mem I'm confused, do you mean to tell me lumbersexuals would use a knife like this to shave the butt hairs of their chin? Maybe I'm mixing lumbersexuals with warthogs. It's early and I need more coffee.
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Happy Halloween! 🎃🎂
Knife build / canoetripping.net fund raiser thread.
- Thread starter Rippy
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Mem I'm confused, do you mean to tell me lumbersexuals would use a knife like this to shave the butt hairs of their chin? Maybe I'm mixing lumbersexuals with warthogs. It's early and I need more coffee.
Are you saying Memaquay going commando looks like the hair on a warthogs butt? And where did you get the picture of my wife?- now you know why I run off to the woods every chance I can!!!
Seriously though- mirror finish, easier to keep clean.
Seriously though- mirror finish, easier to keep clean.
Wow!!! You read my mind Griz. What color am I thinking of now?
I don't want to pick on Memaquay too much, I hope some day to dip a paddle in the same lake with him. Even if he did try to kill Brad on last summer's trip.
Ha ha, don't insult warthogs, I hear they can be a prickly about their appearance!
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I like mirror finish for the same reason mem stated!!
Mirror finish on the knife to see the actual manipulations with a razor-sharp axe in case the compass got left behind.
Yup, mirror for me.
Yup, mirror for me.
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Not the last one that is for sure!!
Time for a couple more pictures. After sawing the blade loose from the bar of steel it gets it's profile sanded to finished shape. I am using a 60 grit belt with the variable speed grinder turned up to max speed.
The tool steel grinds better than it saws. Areas that have more to remove get very warm. It doesn't matter to me if the blade gets hot at this point as it has not been heat treated yet. It won't loose it's temper because it has no temper yet. It is in the annealed state. So let the sparks fly. I probably should wear leather gloves for this operation.
All profiled and ready for the next step. You can see areas on the blade that got hot and burned the blue layout fluid. Those areas had more material sanded off. SN321 still needs a name.
The tool steel grinds better than it saws. Areas that have more to remove get very warm. It doesn't matter to me if the blade gets hot at this point as it has not been heat treated yet. It won't loose it's temper because it has no temper yet. It is in the annealed state. So let the sparks fly. I probably should wear leather gloves for this operation.
All profiled and ready for the next step. You can see areas on the blade that got hot and burned the blue layout fluid. Those areas had more material sanded off. SN321 still needs a name.
Yes, I purpose built it for my knife making needs. I have several attachments for different operations. Before this build is done you will see it used many different ways. It has a variable speed DC motor on it. I am able to change sanding belts with out tools in about three seconds. I change sanding belts allot going from one grit to another. I can change the contact wheels (rubber face wheel I sand against) in less then ten seconds.
The Warthog Warrior? (I mean the knife.)
That would be ideal for slicing up cold smoked bacon and Klik!
This is great! Not sure I could ever make a knife but it is fun to follow along and dream. Great cause too. As far as the finish goes I usually prefer things in satin but can't argue with all the good reasons to go with a polished finish.
One of my good buddies is Polish, we have often shouted out "Zdrowie" as we flip back an Irish Car Bomb (We like to have multicultural drinks), so I'm really looking forward to what a Polish blade looks like. I've seen some Spanish stuff that was pretty nice, but I'll bet them Poles make good steel!
A few more progress pictures. Here I have changed from a serrated wheel to a smooth faced wheel and am sanding the flat surfaces with 220 grit.
After the flat sanding is done (for now) it's time to stamp the blade. For this I use a name stamp fastened to my arbor press. I gently lower the ram to the blade and then center and align it with the punch while the press holds the punch still. I don't have enough force to indent the steel with the arbor press alone, so I help it by beating down on top of the ram with a two pound hammer while applying pressure.
You can see the stamp hanging down below the rusty bolt head.
That's what I'm talking about.
Can't see the name stamp very well in this picture but it's there in the glare. Maybe I'll let the blade sit for now and work on the handle pieces next. That's all for now. Dave
After the flat sanding is done (for now) it's time to stamp the blade. For this I use a name stamp fastened to my arbor press. I gently lower the ram to the blade and then center and align it with the punch while the press holds the punch still. I don't have enough force to indent the steel with the arbor press alone, so I help it by beating down on top of the ram with a two pound hammer while applying pressure.
You can see the stamp hanging down below the rusty bolt head.
That's what I'm talking about.
Can't see the name stamp very well in this picture but it's there in the glare. Maybe I'll let the blade sit for now and work on the handle pieces next. That's all for now. Dave
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Looking good!!
Hey Dave, I can't remember what the name stamp POSSEHL means.
What is the thickness right now, and will it remain this throughout the process?
Also, can you make sure the spine is sharply squared off, so the owner can use it on a ferro rod easily?
Lots of questions and "needs" from me, sorry Dave.
Don't rush this. Let's all enjoy the process. It's looking good.
What is the thickness right now, and will it remain this throughout the process?
Also, can you make sure the spine is sharply squared off, so the owner can use it on a ferro rod easily?
Lots of questions and "needs" from me, sorry Dave.
Don't rush this. Let's all enjoy the process. It's looking good.
I think it is his last name, putting his mark on his art.
At this rate he will be done before Christmas and we will need him to make more!
POSSEHL means it was made by some one with the last name Possehl. We pronounce it Poe cell.
It is .157" thick. No metric folderol in my workshop. It will not loose much more thickness. Probable loose less than five more thousandth's of an inch.
NO,,,, I will not leave the spine sharp!!!! But I might consider leaving the ricasso (Google it) sharp for just such a purpose.
I will slow down, but I'm trying to get far enough along so that Robin starts the fund raising part.
