Interesting.....only took me a couple of days to fill in those parts, using mostly the american box cutter and a small block plane. Then again, I avoided the no staple method, which would probably make me kookoo.
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Jack's - Morris - Special
- Thread starter Mihun09
- Start date
Well, I have until May to finish... and I shant be working on it Mon-Thur each week.
So, if you start a new build say next weekend, you will likely be finished before I make significant progress.
So, if you start a new build say next weekend, you will likely be finished before I make significant progress.
Last Wednesday was a holiday here so I got some strips on but the weekend proved to be a winner. The wood is fighting me, it is likely much less than 10% moisture content and is actually splitting occasionally in the center of the boat. Most of this I can deal with. I'm done with full 16 foot strips and now into my 14's which will cover another 7 inches or so before I need more wood. I used smaller pieces to fill down the sheer line and only need a couple small strips at the bottom to finish that portion.
I'll be back at it on Friday, maybe Thursday night.
I'll be back at it on Friday, maybe Thursday night.
Looks good, I like that sheer line, nice
Looks great!
Thanks Robin and thanks for getting the site back up. I am addicted to canoetripping.
At this rate I should be glassing over Christmas holidays or ready sooner.
At this rate I should be glassing over Christmas holidays or ready sooner.
Looks good! I built like that once too, but had problems making it symmetrical for the gunwale afterward, due to my american box cutter/wood butcher skills.
Considering this is only my second stripper build I will likely do the sheer as I did the first one. Rough it in then when I install the inwales and outwales leave some strip protruding and sand it back flush with the rails. They are only going to bend so much so trimming in this way is simpler than trying to force the rails to the sheer cut. If there is any spots lower than the finished rails it gets filled in with thickened epoxy. I am considering rotating the blade on my coping saw to cut the sheer, it would only be a problem at the station molds.
So, I've made the turn of the bilge and got to the point where the strips are almost flat and for me that makes it difficult to get glue into the cove for the next strip. This is the point I use the syringes for this purpose. I don't need to see the cove and still be able to get glue into it. My new strong back is a bit high which doesn't help so I may adjust the height this weekend, jack it up and remove 5" from the feet to bring it to a better level. That however won't change how I get the glue into the groove.
Loading the syringes and not losing too much glue was a challenge, so I devised a way to keep them upright and hands free with a piece of stray foam. Adding the glue is the easy part, just load about 3/4 full and let it settle. When I insert the plunger part I pick it up and turn it over so the plunger is at the bottom and hold it steady as the air bubble moves to the top end, with my finger over the outlet to lessen the amount of glue loss. Looking through the tube I can see when it is in the right spot and I lose less glue pushing the plunger into the tube in that way. I generally will load two at a time for one strip. When I finish using one, I pull the plunger out and toss both pieces into a tub of water, which stops the glue from curing and allows me to use it again and again.
I get my syringes from Lee Valley Tools.
Loading the syringes and not losing too much glue was a challenge, so I devised a way to keep them upright and hands free with a piece of stray foam. Adding the glue is the easy part, just load about 3/4 full and let it settle. When I insert the plunger part I pick it up and turn it over so the plunger is at the bottom and hold it steady as the air bubble moves to the top end, with my finger over the outlet to lessen the amount of glue loss. Looking through the tube I can see when it is in the right spot and I lose less glue pushing the plunger into the tube in that way. I generally will load two at a time for one strip. When I finish using one, I pull the plunger out and toss both pieces into a tub of water, which stops the glue from curing and allows me to use it again and again.
I get my syringes from Lee Valley Tools.
On another front, somewhat related, we have a new tool in the shop, it is an 8 ton manual log splitter. When I was putting it together I immediately saw the potential to flip the wedge head to the flat side and have an 8 ton press for things like, maybe, shaping decks or inwales and outwales. I just need a jig that fits and I can get the curves I need without clamps.
I fought this on my first couple too until someone tipped me off to install the strips cove side down. I have two blocks clamped to the top of the forms a bit less than the length of my strips with notches a little wider than the strips cut into them. They hold the strip cove up while I run a bead of glue. Much nicer working with gravity than trying to fight it.
Alan
Won't work Alan, the cove has to be up for the taped dowels on this staple free construction.
Karin, I love your idea of using the splitter for a press.
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Isn't the dowel just there to protect the edges of the cove? If installed bead up couldn't you neglect the dowel altogether and tape directly to the strip? I suppose the dowel helps spread the pressure a little too.
Alan
Yes, the dowel fills in the cove to protect the edges. I have to say they don't make fibre tape like they used to. Even one application now the strands pull out of the adhesive, but do they make anything like they used to? I've had nothing but breaking issues with brass screws made in China. As with anything it is a learning process, perhaps when I get to 10 boats I will have a system that works for me, but for now I do what I know, adapt as needed and the end result is a hull I don't have that paddles regardless of how I get there or what it looks like.
So I'm filling in the first side, which seems crazy I'm already at that point. However I am still short strips to finish the hull so I took what I had left, paired them off and numbered the strips for the other side so they will match the side I am filling in. I have some Aspen I may use for the bottom and the odd strip left from the sheer filling but I will still come up short so after tomorrow I will not be able to proceed until I get more strips cut and milled. In the meantime I will try to cut the sheer and perhaps figure out how to cut the clear cedar, 10' 4x4 we have into the strips I need to finish.
Ya, that makes sense now that you mention it. You know what Alan. I better stick to building knives and leave canoe building to the experts like you and Karin and the rest of the talented builders here.
Pretty fancy glue system. I always just put glue on the bead at that point and shove 'em in. That's how I roll.
Tried that on the last strip. I can see the value in it but have to work fast.
Alan doesn't seem to know how to work any other way (fast). Not too sure about Mem. Of course if you consider he's working one handed it's pretty fast.
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