I have one on my solo Sawyer Autumn Mist. I got it (many years ago) from Cooke Custom Sewing.
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Happy Mathematics Day! ❌📐♾️
Canoe cockpit luggage?
- Thread starter JeffOYB
- Start date
Verlen Kruger used to use a wire basket mounted on a couple pieces of ash for his long trips in Canada. It was mounted right in front of his paddling position. I held binocs, camera, compass, drinks, etc. and a map.
I've got a buttpack with a few snacks and a couple of other items. In my vest a Camera and map in one pocket, SPOT, and glasses in the other. That's about it there's not a lot I need on the water.
This year's Learning Point: Don't keep your glasses and the map in the same pocket. Fish have no use for glasses.
This year's Learning Point: Don't keep your glasses and the map in the same pocket. Fish have no use for glasses.
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I'm kind of vaguely following this thread and thinking that I don't need a cockpit and then I realized my normal set-up accomplishes a lot of what you are after. I've used a Mountainsmith DAY pack for about 20 years and I like it a lot. It seems popular with paddlers. I just lash it to the front thwart of whatever solo canoe I'm in and it sits upright and gives direct access to the main compartment and the small (yellow) zippered pouch inside, the smaller zippered front pocket, and the two external water bottle holders. The bottom is waterproof so the contents are protected. I used to take a small soft sided cooler and blue ice in the main compartment but I've migrated to just plain water and I don't care if it's cold.
I use a thwart bag now with a place for a map under a piece of plastic.
G
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Guest
dang, Gumpas, I like that the design and features of that thing. A lot.
My beloved long-narrow 12 pack soft side cooler, with an opening at either end, is on its last legs. I like that the narrow profile fits between my feet and legs, even in the decked boats, and that it will slide under the seat in most bench seat canoes. I suspect that if I turned that pack on its side it would do likewise.
I am gonna need a new “essentials” day bag soon. Something equally at home in the canoe, and in camp resting beside my chair. It doesn’t need to be 100% waterproof (waterproof zippers are a two-handed PITA), just water-repellant. I can treat the bottom for bilge water if need be.
Presuming it is this thing, I like it, I like the 12” x 8” dimensions. But $90 for a fancy fanny pack? I coundn’t pull that trigger.
https://mountainsmith.com/day.html
Well dang, there is (was) a “similar” MountianSmith pack on-sale via REI Outlet. With a 20% off coupon. $30; still kinda pricey, but worth a shot. And it’s made of hemp! I have never possessed anything hemp that wasn’t eventually (and delightfully) burned to ash.
https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/prod...MI1dmXv-WZ5AIVimSGCh0nhQTDEAQYASABEgJH1vD_BwE
Ordered and on the way. And I think I got the last one.
I will have questions about how to bilge waterproof the bottom of a hemp pack. Silicon spray and Sno-seal? Hash oil and gummy pipe residue? Inquiring minds.
Mostly I solo canoe, and depending on the canoe, sometimes that means you get a thwart right in front of you, sometimes not... regardless, if i have a wannagen, I try to set it just in front of me, so i can pin my map down under the lid bungi. I generally take my shoes/boots off when paddling, and stick one on each side of the box. one water bottle goes in each shoe, holding it upright. one is good to drink, the other is "working", chemically. fwiw, i have one lid with an X, the other doesn't. i usually keep the 'good' water on the right side, 'working' on the left.
I also have a seldom-used thwart bag; just hangs, full of odds and ends like repellent, sunscreen, map/compass/whistle, snacks, water purification chemistry set (ie polar pure), etc.
For fishing, I use a really small double-sided tackle box. It has 6 long spinner compartments on one side, and 10 compartments (2 long and 8 half-sized) on the other side (for jigs, poppers, sinkers, and swivels). This hangs on a cord that clips into the left gunwale and hangs right there where i need it. Pliers get stuck in one of the slots between ribs on the open gunwale on the right side, or in my pocket when i'm moving.
I also have a seldom-used thwart bag; just hangs, full of odds and ends like repellent, sunscreen, map/compass/whistle, snacks, water purification chemistry set (ie polar pure), etc.
For fishing, I use a really small double-sided tackle box. It has 6 long spinner compartments on one side, and 10 compartments (2 long and 8 half-sized) on the other side (for jigs, poppers, sinkers, and swivels). This hangs on a cord that clips into the left gunwale and hangs right there where i need it. Pliers get stuck in one of the slots between ribs on the open gunwale on the right side, or in my pocket when i'm moving.
G
Guest
Guest
I received my REI Outlet discontinued Mountainsmith hemp day pack. When ordering the REI rep informed me, upon inquiring, that it would be contraindicated to try to smoke the “sustainable hemp” & nylon pack is if I ran out of weed. Bummer.
My first impression is that that the bag has a LOT more external straps and ladder locks than I need or want, some removable, some not. I’m not even sure what purpose some of those straps serve.
But I’m willing to give it a shot. My weird soft side cooler has seen better days. I long ago tore the some of the battered foam insulation from the inside, and the zipped entry end is finally starting to bind up. But the dimensions were snear perfect for my uses in open or decked canoes. I love the size, floatation and bilge waterproofiness of that thing, but I’ve never found another that shape and style, and it has seen better days.
Time to give the Mountainsmith bag a try. First off, I want some additional floatation, at least a rectangle of minicel exercise foam on the bottom of the main compartment.
A piece of scrap exercise flooring cut to 5” x 13” with radiused corners tucks inside snug and secure, and should also help keep the bottom contents raised a bit out of any bilge water. Once packed with my usual contents I’ll drop it in a tub of water to see if it floats.
There are a lot of zippered compartments and pouches on/in the Mountainsmith bag, helping segregate the contents better than the single cluttered pile in the old cooler bag, which presented a blind reach in and grope around for what I wanted.
The various segregated pocket and pouch packing could be fun. The Mountainsmith bag has a large zippered compartment with a side pocket divider, two zippered pouches on the inside, a large zippered compartment outside on the front and an open pouch sleeve on the back. I liked the design of the Mountainsmith bag more and more as I thought about what might best go where.
Time to pull out the contents of the old day bag cooler and see what organizes best in which compartment. Disgorged that stuff makes for a surprising pile, some of it in small waterproof pouches (SWP)
Time to repack. On the bottom of the main compartment, to give it some upright stability down low:
Folding saw
Sheath knife
Leatherman and Swiss Army (SWP)
Add to that layer a waterproof monocular and the bottom was perfectly flat filled in a single layer.
Things that get used most often went in the unzippered interior “tablet sleeve”. I don’t see myself every bringing a tablet, but that inner sleeve fit my most frequently used items nicely.
Sunglass and case
Reading glasses and case
Digital WP camera
Some small, more infrequently used items in the little interior zippered pouch
Delta Windmill piezo lighter
Pocket Bellows
Spare/back-up flashlight
Iso-bunate canister adaptor for refilling lighters and etc. Thanks again Conk; wonderful teensie device, and a good way to use up those 99% empty canisters that accumulate never come on a trip.
P9010019 by Mike McCrea, on FlickrSome larger stuff in the bigger zippered internal pocket
Notepad & pen (SWP)
Temp gauge and (spare) compass
Flashlight and headstrap.
There are still a few odds and ends left, and some unused pouches and pockets. In the easy to access front zippered sleeve
Spare garbage bag and rubber bands
Minor boo-boo first aid kit (SWP)
Pipe, tobacco, cigs and lighter (SWP)
What’s left? A bottle opener on a retractable cord reel, clipped to the bag (car camping use), and a canteen and insulated mug stuffed in the mesh side sleeves.
Dammit Gumpas, there is still some unfilled volume in the main pouch, and nature abhors a vacuum.
Maybe, seasonally, a hat, or paddling gloves, bug juice, sunscreen, a ditty bag compressed down vest or the soft-ball sized UV “lap blanket” on high summer/desert trips.
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I’m gonna like the Mountainsmith bag for in-boat or beside-my-chair camp essentials. I’m still gonna remove some extraneous webbing straps, and maybe the fanny pack belt; never been a fanny pack fan.
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I got the strapettes (sp?) for my Mountainsmith DAY pack and for day trips I can hang two paddles from the external shock cords and the whole pack is so stable with straps+belt that I can carry a solo canoe very comfortably while wearing a loaded pack. Mine is around 20 years old and gets used 100+ times a year and it still seems like new so I think it may be my best gear investment ever.
I almost always take my shoes off when paddling so they do double duty as pouches too.
I almost always take my shoes off when paddling so they do double duty as pouches too.
G
Guest
Guest
Too many straps/does it float
Too many straps. I would have been more hesitant to start cutting parts and pieces off a $90 bag, but for the discontinued $30 Hemp bag I had at it.
The fanny pack pads and straps are gone. Two wide waist belt straps, with pads and buckles, each with four webbing tensioner straps attached between belt and pack. That accounted for 10 loose straps I didn’t need. 11 counting the detachable shoulder strap. Too many webbing straps to catch on things for my simplistic in-canoe or beside the camp chair essentials luggage. Luggage sound manlier than “purse”.
P9030001 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr
That was some thick webbing and quality buckles, worth saved for future re-use. Even the webbing ends are folded over and cross stitched, workmanship that bodes well for the rest of the construction and materials. The bag is much cleaner and unsnaggy without those dozen unwanted webbing straps festooned around the exterior.
P9030004 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr
P9030005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr
There are still 10 tri-glides and buckles sewn into the pack; they are not as much in my way, and at least a couple may find future custom-sized-strap use.
Does it float? With that heavy metal load, barely, and I’m not sure how long it would float; I didn’t leave it submerged in the tank the tub until it sunk. Given that the contents are my “essentials” I’d rather it not sink, and prefer it float a little higher and more visible. The soft side cooler solution had the advantage of insulation floatation, the Mountainsmith bag, not so much.
I have a 5” x 13” minicel base already in place, but wanted some additional floatation, and sidewall stiffening.
The backside pouch on this Mountainsmith has a double sleeve, one horizontal pocket where the waist belt tucked in stored away, one pocket vertical behind that. A piece of scrap exercise foam stuffed in there added some additional floatation and stiffening. I can still slide in a couple next-day maps or permit, and for that paperwork purpose tighter sleeved is good.
P9030007 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr
Better floatation performance in the dunk tank with the added flotation (and less metal*), and if I need to rest the bag flat on the backside, slid under the seat, it keeps things raised a little further off the bilge water.
*For dunk tank trial #2 the SS canteen and insulated mug came out. I’d rather use the two-holer minicel console, easier extraction and extra hot/cold minicel insulation, and handier sipping in camp. I stuck a big dog-bone sponge in one water bottle pouch. The sponge is usually starts off stuffed in the bailer and then disappears amidst the boat clutter.
P9030010 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr
That genius sponge moment didn’t last long.
Gumpas, in my best Valley Girl voice “Oh my gawd, SHOES!”.
I take off summer water shoes while paddling, in part so my feet don’t go trench-foot pruney, in part because I sport giant feet, and have better tactile feel when barefoot. The water shoes typically get pushed out of the way under the seat, where they mysteriously creep further sternward and I can’t easily find or reach them when I want to get out. Every. dang. Time. “Well, I have one shoe, I can peg leg it when I hop out and then find the other”
Time to relocate the sponge under the front bungee, and leave the mesh side pockets open and available to hold water shoes. Mesh. Drain. Water shoes.
P9030011 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr
Serious thanks Gumpas, I think this bag will be perfect, and eliminate some previous design flaws. It appears to be well and thoughtfully made, with reinforced edges, double or triple stitching, YKK zippers with tab pulls, inner liner and pockets/pouches. Maybe the best $30 I ever spent on “luggage”.
The little cooler was, by its nature, largely rain and bilge water proof. I need to e-mail Mountainsmith and ask if there is a water repellent treatment they would recommend for hemp/210 denier nylon.
REI Outlet seems to have the discounted Hemp version back in stock.
https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/144786/mountainsmith-day-classic-hemp-waistpack
Too many straps. I would have been more hesitant to start cutting parts and pieces off a $90 bag, but for the discontinued $30 Hemp bag I had at it.
The fanny pack pads and straps are gone. Two wide waist belt straps, with pads and buckles, each with four webbing tensioner straps attached between belt and pack. That accounted for 10 loose straps I didn’t need. 11 counting the detachable shoulder strap. Too many webbing straps to catch on things for my simplistic in-canoe or beside the camp chair essentials luggage. Luggage sound manlier than “purse”.
P9030001 by Mike McCrea, on FlickrThat was some thick webbing and quality buckles, worth saved for future re-use. Even the webbing ends are folded over and cross stitched, workmanship that bodes well for the rest of the construction and materials. The bag is much cleaner and unsnaggy without those dozen unwanted webbing straps festooned around the exterior.
P9030004 by Mike McCrea, on FlickrP9030005 by Mike McCrea, on FlickrThere are still 10 tri-glides and buckles sewn into the pack; they are not as much in my way, and at least a couple may find future custom-sized-strap use.
Does it float? With that heavy metal load, barely, and I’m not sure how long it would float; I didn’t leave it submerged in the tank the tub until it sunk. Given that the contents are my “essentials” I’d rather it not sink, and prefer it float a little higher and more visible. The soft side cooler solution had the advantage of insulation floatation, the Mountainsmith bag, not so much.
I have a 5” x 13” minicel base already in place, but wanted some additional floatation, and sidewall stiffening.
The backside pouch on this Mountainsmith has a double sleeve, one horizontal pocket where the waist belt tucked in stored away, one pocket vertical behind that. A piece of scrap exercise foam stuffed in there added some additional floatation and stiffening. I can still slide in a couple next-day maps or permit, and for that paperwork purpose tighter sleeved is good.
P9030007 by Mike McCrea, on FlickrBetter floatation performance in the dunk tank with the added flotation (and less metal*), and if I need to rest the bag flat on the backside, slid under the seat, it keeps things raised a little further off the bilge water.
*For dunk tank trial #2 the SS canteen and insulated mug came out. I’d rather use the two-holer minicel console, easier extraction and extra hot/cold minicel insulation, and handier sipping in camp. I stuck a big dog-bone sponge in one water bottle pouch. The sponge is usually starts off stuffed in the bailer and then disappears amidst the boat clutter.
P9030010 by Mike McCrea, on FlickrThat genius sponge moment didn’t last long.
Gumpas, in my best Valley Girl voice “Oh my gawd, SHOES!”.
I take off summer water shoes while paddling, in part so my feet don’t go trench-foot pruney, in part because I sport giant feet, and have better tactile feel when barefoot. The water shoes typically get pushed out of the way under the seat, where they mysteriously creep further sternward and I can’t easily find or reach them when I want to get out. Every. dang. Time. “Well, I have one shoe, I can peg leg it when I hop out and then find the other”
Time to relocate the sponge under the front bungee, and leave the mesh side pockets open and available to hold water shoes. Mesh. Drain. Water shoes.
P9030011 by Mike McCrea, on FlickrSerious thanks Gumpas, I think this bag will be perfect, and eliminate some previous design flaws. It appears to be well and thoughtfully made, with reinforced edges, double or triple stitching, YKK zippers with tab pulls, inner liner and pockets/pouches. Maybe the best $30 I ever spent on “luggage”.
The little cooler was, by its nature, largely rain and bilge water proof. I need to e-mail Mountainsmith and ask if there is a water repellent treatment they would recommend for hemp/210 denier nylon.
REI Outlet seems to have the discounted Hemp version back in stock.
https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/144786/mountainsmith-day-classic-hemp-waistpack
G
Guest
Guest
I e-mailed Mountainsmith about “waterproofing” the bag and received a prompt response, recommending Nikwax Tent and Gear Solarproof Waterproofing Spray. Kind of what I expected, but I had never DWR’ed anything hemp before.
I didn’t feel like buying spray Nikwax when I had a half bottle of TX.Direct Wash-in Nikwax.
Emptied the bag again, couple of capfuls in a bucket of water, submerged and hand agitated, soaked for 10 minutes, rinsed until the water ran clear. A better application I think than spray-on as the TX-Direct is on every surface of the bag, inside and out.
It is drying now (for the third time) and I’ll see if the hemp/nylon exterior is more bilge, rain and splash water repellent once it is again fully dry.
To clarify, the (yellow) inner lining of the bag is largely waterproof; filling the zippered pockets with water they maintained the same water level with very little seepage. My intent is to make the outer bag more water repellent and not have a wet dog essentials bag between my legs, and hopefully keep it from drier in bilge water.
Too belatedly considered, I should have dunked some old Gore-Tex in the same bucket mixture before I dumped it out. Dammit.
I didn’t feel like buying spray Nikwax when I had a half bottle of TX.Direct Wash-in Nikwax.
Emptied the bag again, couple of capfuls in a bucket of water, submerged and hand agitated, soaked for 10 minutes, rinsed until the water ran clear. A better application I think than spray-on as the TX-Direct is on every surface of the bag, inside and out.
It is drying now (for the third time) and I’ll see if the hemp/nylon exterior is more bilge, rain and splash water repellent once it is again fully dry.
To clarify, the (yellow) inner lining of the bag is largely waterproof; filling the zippered pockets with water they maintained the same water level with very little seepage. My intent is to make the outer bag more water repellent and not have a wet dog essentials bag between my legs, and hopefully keep it from drier in bilge water.
Too belatedly considered, I should have dunked some old Gore-Tex in the same bucket mixture before I dumped it out. Dammit.
