Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit Late Autumn 2024

[SilentWilderness]

Evening Gentlemen,

This trip I had thought about for quite sometime after hearing the tales from locals in Valemount about this legendary canoe trip. I was working on the pipeline as an operator and had driven up for the job from Manitoba with my canoe. Quite the scene to drive through the prairies in December with a canoe trapped on. I got some comments at fuel stations, but they don't understand the canoe+paddler relationship that some of us have, I pity them the way Mr. T pities the foo. But I digress.


I had lost my first pride and joy solo Clipper Prospector 14' solo whitewater canoeing on the Fraser at Tete Jaune Cache. Its not actually lost just buried under a certain log jam along with my favourite paddle. Seriously that is a really nice boat.

While at Western Canoe getting my new boat I spotted a Bowron map and purchased it. I scoured it a few times but the distance and length time quoted on their website made it impossible for my work schedule. The pipline ended and I found work in the areadue to how much I enjoyed the outdoors here. I paddled a bunch of local lakes that I very much enjoyed like Murtle Lake, Moose Lake, Kinney Lake, Little Lost Lake and a few others. Still the Bowron was an itch I wanted to scratch. I tried setting up a group to go and like most times everyone turned out to be as flakey as the finest can of Clover Leak Spicy Thai Tuna. I wanted to go before or after start of season because of all the red tape and tourists. I prefer solitude or a few friends to lots of people, I'm sure I'm not the only one.


Finally autumn came around and I started thinking about going again. The weather here as been temperamental with sunny days forecasted a week away with that week always being a week away. Finally a sunny weekend appeared and stayed in the forecast. So I notified a friend of where to search for my body after a certain length of time and away I went. Driving all the way to Prince George, stopping for the expedient scenic roadwork curtesy of the Province of BC I arrived much later then anticipated. I went to get a few groceries and slam back a few of Dave's delicious singles (Wendys $4.00 deal) and a Fanta Lime. Headed for Quesnel and took the turn off towards Wells. The road climbed up to a small pass and there was snow everywhere, I started secound guessing my time of year. the descent there was black ice but nothing serious. Wells is beautiful and quaint. They have cell service! I was told there was no cell service after Quesnel. I made the turn off just before Barkerville and passed the few mines. It was almost dark by now. I had hoped to get through the first portage to camp but that was looking like a no go. Arrived at Bowron Lake just at sunset and that was an epic view (Sorry no photos). I went up the road to the campground. A big dead balsam fir fell across the road thankfully there was enough room to go around. Around the fir and there in the road stood a moose cow and calf, looking very displeased with my presence. They moved on and I continued. The campground was quite and dark, the setting sun didn't illuminate the area within. One couple had a fire and I stopped and took a random trail down to where I figured the lake was and found the dock. Enjoyed the sunset and then returned to my truck. I picked a campsite and stayed overnight. It was the coldest of all the nights on my trip at the time I didn't know that and was kind of concerned. I had a warm bag but it had some flaws that made it less warm then the rating.


Thankfully my brain reminded me of something in the middle of a dead sleep that I forgot to do yesterday, so in the morning I drove back to Wells to use that cell service. Got back to the park and started prepping to leave. There were a few other vehicles in the parking lot the previous evening already so I figure I wasn't the only one going late season. Finally departed at 1215hrs, what a waste of a day never the less onward we go! The first of three portages for the day was a wide beautiful trail and I was impressed, though I did work up a sweat from the elevation. I'm quite sure I was over their measly weight restriction. Who does ultralight canoe camping anyways?




First lake is beautiful and reminded me of Manitoba, except this one has mountain in the distant views. This is epic.



I really enjoyed the paddle on this lake, it was really quiet and peaceful. It sure was nice to cool down and relax after that 2.4km portage in. The water was clear and cool and I dipped my hockey tape in the water to cool down my hands. I arrived on the other side to see things strewn about, a new load strap lay by the sand and few pieces of garbage. Classic. I stopped to take some photos and a butterfly decided my yellow bag was a comfortable landing zone to soak up some sun. The weather was mint and I was enjoying the sun as well.




Another portage of 2.0km, I'm looking forward to Isaac Lake so I can just paddle and enjoy the views. While putting a long on the trail all of a sudden it feels like I'm dragging and anchor. I look back and discover to my disbelief that my wheel has fallen off. Surely not catastrophic failure so soon? Well somehow my safety pin on the wheel has come out. Great now I have to find the pin in the leaves on the trail. Back track looking diligently along the trail, where could it be. Without it I may have to turn back, there it is shining in the sunlight against the yellow leaves. I recover it and reattach the wheel and secure it. This pin securement check becomes a circuit ritual to make sure I don't lose it. I arrive at Indian Point Lake and this is even more beautiful then the last lake. The shade is starting to feel cool as the after noon progresses. I hurriedly get onto the water out of the shade.



I pass the first cabin and hear some human noise, sure enough there is a fisherman there. There were a lot of fish jumping and a loon so I can say he picked a great spot to fish. Its was a beautiful spot and I was tempted to camp at that lake but I had already set a destination of Wolverine Bay shelter. Onwards I pressed through the swampy drainage connector, where paddling was of no use and I had to pole with my paddle till I got clear and entered the small estuary. This provided a little deeper water but not by much. The sun was dipping lower in the sky and the temperature dropped, I could see my breathe once I got on the landing. I nimbly got out of my canoe without getting my feet wet. Keeping my feet dry was a challenge, though I was doing good so far. The weather was not wet feet friendly and I didn't want cold feet this evening. I grabbed a quick snack of dehydrated apples I had made before the trip and a handful of shredded cheese to go with it. Then I headed down the last portage before Isaac Lake. Only 1.6km trail but this trail was in much poorer shape then the last two. The last 100 metres was swampy and it was difficult to navigate and keep my feet dry, also took a lot more effort to pull my cart though this mire. I heard voices again and saw there were people at this end of Isaac Lake. A couple was in the canoe having a leisure paddle out on the lake and the sounds of others were just off towards the campsite. They had ditched most of their stuff at the canoe launch and I passed it and started to launch my canoe. The area to launch wasn't the best and as I got ready to step into the canoe my foot slipped on the log I was perched on and there goes my dry feet. The evening was here, perhaps I am tired from portaging. The sun was setting and casting a wonderful view ahead. A wet foot wasn't the worst thing ever. So much left to see before the sun set and I had quite a distance to go yet to reach my destination.



The pictures look warm don't they? It was cold. You can see the mist rising off of the water as the warmer water evaporates into the air. A loon called somewhere in the mist creating a relaxing ethereal ambiance. I paddled towards the laughing happy couple, the water was shallow at the beginning but deepened rapidly. There seem to be a current in the lake which was rather odd. there was no wind and I watched the couple ahead seem to drift sideways while paddling a straight line between a narrowing in the lake. As I reached this spot I experienced the same thing my canoe seemed to drift sideways if pushed or pulled away from my current trajectory. I passed the couple and said hello.

The sun continued to sink and I paddled onwards realizing that I didn't have enough sunlight to reach my destination. I was close but not close enough. Harder I Paddled to try and race the sun, wishing I had stopped at the bulk barn in PG for trail mix and dehydrated pineapple. This thought crossed my mind a few times during the trip and I will never make this mistake again. Other then the apples and cheese everything else was a heat and serve meal. (I despise protein, energy, fruit bars)

The sun set and the slight afterglow kept me going, the moon eventually rose and due to the clear skies cast a wonderful light. The mist that had hid the loons from my sight at the start of the lake now hid the shore line from me. I moved in closer to the shore line and promised myself a headlamp in my pocket to see the camp markers better. Little did I know until later that none of the markers are reflective so it wouldn't have done much use. I paddled a long some how feeling like this was the longest portion of my trip so far as I peered into the darkness. Looking for debris or dead heads in the waters in front of me. I struck a sand bar at the mouth of what looked like a creek. It was so dark I didn't see the camp site marker so on I pressed. Finally out of the darkness I gap appeared in the trees and a building appearance presented itself. There was no marker so I'm glad I spotted the gap. I landed and enjoyed the faint after glow at the far end of the lake and started to unload my canoe. (The first photo below I used night mode with flash to get that shot. It looks bright but it was more like the secound photo)



I walked up the building to find the front door completely blocked with plastic, well that is unfortunate. I didn't want to damage the plastic to get inside. I walked around and noticed the plastic sheets over the middle section of the building were only on the front and not the sides. at least I could crawl in. Then I hit the back side and here is a wide open door. Perfect! I walked in and there were picnic tables and benches and an iron wood stove. Wow this is awesome! I hurriedly brought in my stuff and then made some shavings and started a fire. What a wonderful treat, a fire and a hot meal after a long day. I set up my tent fly inside up against the far wall from the open door and then tipped a bench across the doorway. A bear would at least knock it over and give me a warning. Into the sack I went and I was out like a light.

Next morning I woke up to a beautiful blue sky and bright sunshine. I was sore though clearly I was out of shape or something. I think I had done approximately 28km. Today was Sabbath so it was a leisure day and I enjoyed the morning sunrise. I made another hot meal and stoked the fire. That stove was excellent for holding a fire all night. After breakfast I relaxed for a bit then loaded things up and leisurely paddled down Isaac Lake. I will say I wish I had told my friend a few more days so I could explore more. I didn't get to check on all the cabins as I was worried I would be late and my friend would call SAR and ohh the embarrassment that would be. I passed the first cabin taking time to checked it out from a distance. I noticed a kayak paddle canoeist across the lake. He stopped at an rock out cropping and then I never saw him again. I looked back and didn't see him anywhere. Rather odd. It wasn't a campsite either but not like that would stop anyone from camping where they pleased.
I mean he was paddling a solo boat with a kayak paddle, not a huge loss in the grand scheme of things. ( <--This is a joke)





I arrived at Lynx cabin and decided to enjoy the afternoon there. Only 12 km today but it was meant to be relaxing. I made a fire and checked out the exterior of the cabin reading all the engravings on its outer logs. Oldest one I found was from 1973, I noticed how polite and respectful the old carvings were and how crude some of the newer ones were. I went inside and the windows had been plastic wrapped to keep moisture out. The park definitely cares about their buildings which was nice to see. I was thinking of sleeping in the cabin but the steel bunks were not made for air mattress or stature size. The floor looked promising until a certain engraving caught my eye "Safe from the bears but not from the mice from a couple occupying this humble abode previously. The thought of breathing mouse dropping dust while sleeping on the floor through me off and I decided to actually camp. I ate a hearty meal of minute steak and rice and read until the darkness was completely engulfed me. I walked down to the shore and took some photos of the moon swept landscape and the peaks in the far background. It was a wonderful day and the beautiful of the landscape was worth it.



What a beautiful end to a perfect day! Could it get better then this?

 

[SilentWilderness]

Morning came early, this had become normal being wide awake at 0500hrs. The early evenings of going to bed a hour or two past sun down was making for really great sleep. I read for a bit and then noticed the sun starting to peak over the mountains in the far distance. Lets go see! I shuffled down the path to where the canoe was beached. Yes another beautiful morning! The morning sun kissed the far peaks and made for some epic photos, Unfortunately my camera phone leaves so much to be desired in an image. The air was cool but it was one of the warmest nights I had so far enjoyed. Normally I wrap my head in a jacket since a chrome dome doesn't hold heat. (They say that the rain in BC grows anything, sadly Gents I have found hair evidence to the contrary) Eagerly I got my stuff packed away, I wanted to paddle in this morning wonderland. I ate a quick meal of the last of my apples and bunch of cheese. (I love cheese) and off I went. It was so quiet and there was barely a wave in the water. This is it! It can be even better then imagined yesterday.



As I paddled a long I enjoyed the views but sadly with the way the lake was the view didn't change much in this narrow section. So after awhile you just put your head down and paddle to make some head way. Wondering how long till the end of the lake and what views awaited ahead. Mid morning I noticed that the sun didn't have as much heat as the few previous days. There was a cool chill in the air that didn't bode well. There is a swampy creek mouth off to the left and it looks really inviting to go explore but I'm still counting kms and days till I'm back to Wells to notify my friend. It looked like prime Grizz country and I was not really interested in meeting one in a shallow creek bed. I did chock it up for a future visit. I was thinking about exploring and a little white water to break up the never ending flat water paddling. I try and be positive but I was tired of paddling flat water by this time. The portages of the first day seemed not as bad now that I had been paddling Isaac Lake. I would have taken a 2km portage just to break things up. Sometimes paddling a white water boat can feel like whipping a fat pig in the water. Definitely not a sleek lake boat. Still an amazing boat and I would recommend it for everyone. Finally I had enough of paddling and decided to have a break. The wind had started to pick up and I looked for a good campsite. All the campsites I passed were facing away from the sun and were all wet and dreary. I finally found one that at least had a stack of pine stacked by the campsite and I stopped for a hot meal. Looking for ways to start a fire I found some beetle damaged pine and balsam. I took the dry resin and went looking for some birch tinder. This is the biggest thing I saw wrong on this circuit was people stripping birch trees right down to the inner bark all the way around, effectively killing the tree. Any birch that was close to the campsite had this abuse. An information sign at the canoe weigh in would help to mitigate this. I grabbed a few dry scruffs that had pulled away naturally by the tree. Now to get some dry wood. Everything was soaked, I guess it had rained in the night. I didn't remember that at all but maybe I was out cold. Always important to carry an axe, I have a small council tool hatchet, but hoping to get something a little bigger. I heavier head feels safer then a hatchet that can easily deflect. I also keep a small folding saw for removing wind down trees on portage trails. Good to do our part. Split up some wood and the resin made the kindling roast to life. The large wood sizzled and popped as the moisture was evaporated from the ends. It was not a warm fire but it helped cook my meal and that was enough. Sometimes to crackle and the flames dancing is enough to lift the spirits. The food sure helps and especially if you are hangry.



The meal was turkey bacon which was amazing and the "spicy" chicken hotdog was a new product that I decided to try, that hotdog was absolute trash, I wouldn't feed that to my dog. I needed the calories, so down the hatch it went. Never trying anything on a long canoe trip again. I should have bought my old faithful favourite. While eating I noticed that the wind had picked up to the point where there were white caps on the lake with big rollers. Well this is disappointing I had been a little concerned about this happening and slowing my progress. I waited for awhile enjoying the fire but I had not made a whole lot of progress and the day was still young so I decided to push off. The rest of the day I would not take any photos due to my phone going in my dry bag. The dry suit and life jacket went on and I headed out into the wind driven waves. The frustration with my less then sleek lake boat quickly dissolved into pure love this boat. Rough waster is what it was designed for and slightly cross wind I pushed it. It ate every white capped roller with a look of pure distain "Is this all you got?" The bow just gently slapped wave after wave as it came at it and I was pleased to have purchased a good boat. Did I make great distance? No not great, but once I made it past the next point there was a lull in the wind and I started picking up speed, towards evening the wind died down to zero. What a relief and what was that in the distance but the end of the lake. So thankful! The sun was still shining as I reached the end of the lake. I beached and had a look around. I didn't check out the structure there due to me desiring to continue, If you have a few extra days and a love of running some easy white water this is the place to spend time. I scouted the chute which said for experienced paddlers only on the map, am I experienced I wondered. I have experienced things while paddling but usually with friends or safety nets. It didn't look that difficult but maybe I was missing something. Said a quick prayer because out here there is no safety net and I didn't want to gamble my life for a thrill. After some decision I decided to run it. Picked the line and the eddy I would pull into and away I went. Man what a joy to be on moving water, just pure thrill of what I bough the boat for. The boat performed flawlessly and into the eddy I went. That was 0.5 in difficulty if that maybe its dangerous in spring with the run off. I pointed out of the eddy and headed down stream eyeing up the next set of rapids. While looking down stream I had a amazing view. Two caribou entered the water on river right and swam across in front of me. What an epic view, I have never seen any in life other then Nat Geo. The cow quickly shook off and ran up the bank on river left. The stag looked at me with curiosity waited for the cow to reach the top then shook himself and tossed his head and followed her up the bank. Whole thing took like a minute but it felt like time slowed for a secound. Onwards we go through the next set of rapids. I read the map wrong and went river right thinking there was a pull out and then saw the sign saying out river left. Thankfully the current wasn't strong and I made it over. This portage was the worst for trail maintenance of all the trails some because of potholes but mostly due to jagged rocks everywhere. I'm sure it gets way more use because people hiking back and forth to see the water fall. If I had stayed at the cabin I would have run that chute multiple times. It was fun and you couldn't Chuck Norris round house kick the smile off of my face.

It was starting to get on in the day, I ended that portage then paddled across to river right to the other portage. Now I understand the map. This was an easy portage and you get to stop and see the falls. Its great in person but a camera would never capture what I saw since you are so close to them and my phone was buried in my dry bag. Get down to the end of the trail and only 3 portages left. The falls current flows passed the put in. I want to hit that! I quickly put everything into my boat and check my map. Considering how late I paddled the first day and how bright the moon was I figure I could make the Turner Cabin easily. This river ran right into that lake and it was flowing fast so I figured I could make up some time. The sun was setting on the peaks and it was a beautiful view as the water pulled me along. I entered McLeary lake and saw the cabin way off to the other side of the lake. With that view I hesitated maybe I should stay here for the night. I was spoiled staying in that structure the first night and the dry warm mouse free environment really appealed to me. The McLeary cabin would have a mouse problem and the campsite would be wet. Plus I was on this fast moving river and I would make good time and there was still lots of sunlight left. So I exited the lake and that beautiful view. From here on down it screamed Grizz country all the way along as well as moose country. It was flat river bottom with all the vegetation that moose love eating and bears love hiding in. I saw a sign ahead to keep right and watch for deadheads, sweepers and strainers. Well this was going to be exciting I thought, sunset and a beautiful river to paddle. Who could ask for a better night?

Then it all changed as I entered the river. I should have stayed at the McLeary cabin. A huge dark cloud came over the mountain top and turned everything from beautiful sunset to flat grey. I started to rain and here I am trying to look for debris in the river now much darker then I would ever like for boating. Well this is terrible. I will put my back into it and see if I can beat the light fading completely. It couldn't get much worse I figured but at least I was dry in my suit. Well it did the heat disappeared along with the light and here I am floating along a river strewn with mines just seeing them ahead and paddling to avoid running into them. I saw a sign up ahead and it was dark I had to a paddle within a few feet of it. Emergency phone it read, well that was useless. I beached on a sand bar and checked my map. According to my map there was a pond I was supposed to encounter and then another section of river. It felt like forever since I had left the lake so why was it taking so long. Well no sense standing around lets put my back into it and head onward. It is pitch black, cold and raining I would very much like to have a meal and a warm bed. Should I camp on a sand bar in this country? The thought crossed my mind a few times. It was starting to get dangerous. Now I didn't want to sleep on a barely above water sand bar. I mean perhaps a bear would find me and cuddle me for some warmth. Though I figured the hot meal would be me and the cuddle would be inside his stomach. (I firmly believe I am a tasty bear morsel, I have not fact checked a bear on it though) The vegetation started to grow sparse. Was this the pond or the lake? Then the fog rolled in and I couldn't see maybe 20 feet in front of me. I paddled until I came to a firm stop. I am stuck on some sand bar.in my short view I cannot see anything around me. Where on this map am I. I checked it again. I felt I had traveled enough time to hit the lake but what if I was wrong. If I was at the pond it was another hour to the cabin if I could see anything if I was on the lake the nearest camp site was 200 meters. What to do what to do. I pulled my boat for a bit trying to find deep water. Everywhere there are trees stranded in the low water. Finally I've had enough I don't know where I am and I don't know where the deep water is. So I move towards the "shore" on the right side. I finally get off sand onto mud and from mud onto mud with grass but the grass seems boggy. There are moose tracks and goose crap everywhere. Surely there must be some firm ground around. I walked up to the start of the tree line and its chocked with alders. no flat ground. Does this area flood I wonder? The ground was saturated like it had recently been under water and was water logged. Should I push on? The way the fog was and the deadheads everywhere I figure it was stupid to do so. Well I'm exhausted anyways. Lets find a piece of higher ground and maybe not covered on goose crap. I found a slightly raised area with swamp around it. No goose deprived area, oh well I have a ground tarp at least. I tied my food barrel and canoe onto the biggest alder I could find and stashed the other things with with. Just my tent and dry bag went into the tent. I figured if the water rose I could get out with soaking everything. I crawled into my tent, the ground was so soft I didn't bother blowing up my mattress and just slept on my close foam pad. I was so tired and worried about bears I didn't eat. Just crashed. I woke up to pounding rain at 0100hrs and checked outside to see if I was Noah's Ark. No the water levels were the same. Maybe it just rains in this part of the lake a lot. Back to slumber.

 

[SilentWilderness]

Saved

 

[memaquay]

Really enjoying this so far, the Bowron has been on my bucket list for many years. Looking forward to your next installment. Can't help you with the editing stuff, but I'm sure Glenn will be along soon with assistance.

 

[stevet]

Great report…thoroughly enjoying it, thanks.

 

[lowangle al]

Following along, great so far.

 

[Nick Pending]

Keep going with your story, Silent. Don't sweat the grammar and such too much, but do feel free to fix if Glenn will let you (I'll applaud your efforts to do so). I think you can only edit for two days after posting if I remember right. I've done the Bowron Circuit several times over a long timespan (almost 50 years) and it's refreshing to get others' viewpoints on the trip. My first two trips there were before the trails were "upgraded" for carts.

Another trip you might like is the Turner Lake Chain a little farther south in Tweedsmuir, west of Williams Lake. Unless you want to pay to fly your own boat in (expensive), you'll be paddling different boats, and you can't use wheelie carts, gotta carry it on your shoulders. The portages are shorter for the most part than the longer ones found in the Bowron. Good scenery there also. Unfortunately it's an out and back on the same route, not a circle like Bowron. There's a thousand-plus foot waterfall at the end with warning signs. The take out is at the top, not the bottom (Joke!). You can hike in rather than fly if you want to save money, but it's a bit of a trek and a climb. My wife rates Turner Lake as better than the Bowron, but I put them about the same, with Turner maybe just above Bowron.

 

[jdeerfoot]

Nice report and great photos.

 

[Ralph]

Thanks for the great report and pictures. Makes me want to go there.

 

[Odyssey]

Love those mountain views from across the water. "Could it get better then this?" Yes, I bet it can, but that's a beautiful start.

 

[SilentWilderness]

Hope you enjoy the secound installment

 

[SilentWilderness]

Keep going with your story, Silent. Don't sweat the grammar and such too much, but do feel free to fix if Glenn will let you (I'll applaud your efforts to do so). I think you can only edit for two days after posting if I remember right. I've done the Bowron Circuit several times over a long timespan (almost 50 years) and it's refreshing to get others' viewpoints on the trip. My first two trips there were before the trails were "upgraded" for carts.

Another trip you might like is the Turner Lake Chain a little farther south in Tweedsmuir, west of Williams Lake. Unless you want to pay to fly your own boat in (expensive), you'll be paddling different boats, and you can't use wheelie carts, gotta carry it on your shoulders. The portages are shorter for the most part than the longer ones found in the Bowron. Good scenery there also. Unfortunately it's an out and back on the same route, not a circle like Bowron. There's a thousand-plus foot waterfall at the end with warning signs. The take out is at the top, not the bottom (Joke!). You can hike in rather than fly if you want to save money, but it's a bit of a trek and a climb. My wife rates Turner Lake as better than the Bowron, but I put them about the same, with Turner maybe just above Bowron.

Going to look into that destination. Thank you

 

[Gamma1214]

Thanks TR, I'm really enjoying it. That's some really pretty country and some great pics!

I had a warm bag but it had some flaws that made it less warm then the rating.

I think that's all of them, right off the shelf!

I mean he was paddling a solo boat with a kayak paddle, not a huge loss in the grand scheme of things.

LOL... classic.

I may have to look at this route myself but, in the meantime, I'll look forward to your next installment.

 

[SilentWilderness]

Morning came

The darkness that surrounded my tent slowly lightened. I had been up since 0530hrs but stayed in my bag trying to get a little more warmth before embracing the cold and the rain. I knew that today would be a big push for 30km but I was still puzzled as to where I was. The morning light would give me an idea. Everything was wet, Even though I had my vents open on my tent the condensation was thick on the walls. I tried to get ready and packed without bumping the tent and getting a cold shower. Into my dry suit with my thermals, I was going to need them today. My shoes were soaked from the previous day still felt frigid through the dry suit. I knew that as soon as I started moving the heat in my feet would warm them up. With everything packed in the tent I left my world of warmth for the silent wilderness. Greyish clouds hung low and cast an eerie bluish grey tone across the landscape. Mountains with snow covered peaks surrounded my view. It was actually still quite beautiful and serene. I was camped on an extensive mud flat with water seeming to pool everywhere before the flats gave way to steep alder covered slopes. The rain went back from downpour to drizzle and everything in between in random patterns. I looked west and sure enough I was on a lake. What was invisible last night, prominent today. I loaded my canoe making sure I left nothing tied in the alders behind my tent. then with some difficulty I dragged my boat through the muck and cold water till I could get enough water to float my boat. What a lark there not 100 meters from my camping spot was the next camping spot. I would have never been able to find it in the dark. The campsite was overgrown and the orange marker barely above grass level. That meant the shelter was probably 45mins paddle time or less away. I started paddling, making sure I didn't hit any sand bars. They along with tree entanglements seem to abound in these waters. There seemed to be a massive tree wad suspended in the middle of the lake. from a distance it looked like a couple huge elk swimming but as you drew near you could see it was a massive root wad. I stayed well clear of it and paddled along the right side of the lake. I was physically drained since I hadn't eaten since a snack before the chute. I needed to hit the shelter and get some heat, food and water into my body. I hadn't filled my bottle in awhile because of the beavers and birds since Isaac Lake contaminating the water.



Due to being tired and hungry it felt like the next 45 mins of paddling was an eternity. I kept thinking of all the scrumptious foods I would love to have that I had not packed in my drum. The rain had increased for some time and I needed to empty my canoe at the shelter as it slopped around on the bottom. Finally arrived at site 34! Oh wait, never mind its site 33 which is on one side of a creek and site 34 with the shelter is on the other side. I get back into my boat and paddling across the creek, wow that water looks pure. I stop and dip my canteen, the water was amazing. Probably the best water of all of the Bowron chain right there at site 34. I unloaded and quickly packed everything into the Turner Creek shelter, which is the best of all the shelters. It is fully enclosed with dead bolt doors. There was a lot of dry firewood inside and birch bark and shavings already created. What a nice break! I quickly made a fire and then opened the food barrel and grabbed food. It wasn't what I had been imagining but I didn't care food is food at this point. Anything tastes good and if it fills my belly that is what I want. Especially hot food to heat my core. The wood stove was soon raging and I pulled out all my wet kit and hung it to dry on baling twine someone had set up previously. Ten and ground sheet dripped and dripped, with the stove roaring it was steaming a bit too. Cracked open a tin of beans and through it on the stove. Careful not to get tent drippings in the can. The smell of maple sugar and beans made my mouth water, I couldn't wait to eat them. I can't remember what else I had to eat because the beans were the highlight. Oh wait right it was those disgusting chicken dogs.



After enjoying good food and a long break. I packed up my tepid tent and gear. The idea of staying all day in this hot cozy environment really tugged at my heart strings. I had watched the rain fall from inside and fanaticized about staying here till the sun came out. How long would that be I wondered. The way things had gone for this trip to be possible a couple days of sun may be all that had left for this autumn. I did not relish it but onward I decided to go. The warmth and food had me in good spirits so I departed really carving up the water. The views where stupendous as I traveled along. Though the scenery like Isaac did not change much after the initial wow. I found myself having to stop once an hour to walk around and get heat and feeling back into my feet. I was able to check out quite a few campsites along the way just to make sure I had feet by the end of the day. The lake finally narrowed and merged into Sandy Lake. It was sandy and shallow right at the entrance into the lake. I poled and got out and pulled my boat towards deeper water. I also stopped and bailed out my canoe from the down pour. Once back into my canoe I stayed close to the right side of the lake due to the map showing it the fastest way to get to the river at the end of this lake. Lanezi Lake onward the lakes all seemed to be quite shallow along the edges with the Spectacle Lakes being the shallowest of all the lakes.



By the first campground on Sandy Lake the rain had stopped for a bit and I was able to enjoy not having water stream down my eyebrows. I stopped at the first campground and really stretched the legs and worked the feet. It had been awhile since the sandy entrance and my feet were freezing again. There was a big sign at this campground and I used it as an excuse to stop. The sign was just a duplicate from a sign posted at the ranger entrance and I felt cheated hoping for something interesting for my brain to think about as I paddled. Life had become ultra simple for me after the first few days. All the human social garbage that entraps our minds really peels away leaving just quiet peace. Very little robs your joy. Despite the grumbling about the cold and rain I was happy. Just simple happiness that few people get to experience in their lives. They have been entrapped by something in this world and it all flushes away when you are in amongst God's handiwork. I miss it, I miss it a lot.
The wind picked up making the trip from that campsite to the entrance to the river difficult. It started raining heavy again and found myself bailing to get the water out. Man I am sick of this rain. Finally get out of the cross wind and into the river. Except it was a not a fast moving river, in fact it was quite tranquil for a river. You could see that other times of the year the water did in fact move quickly through this river. There were portions of bank that had slide into the river creating dead tree islands along the banks. The wind was non existent in this section and I was quite happy for that. I rounded a bend and what did I see? Blue sky peaking through and some sunshine! The ranger cabin came into view and I was so happy. Perhaps it was open and I could stay the night here? I paddled towards the creek that would take my to the cabin and a little further was the portage. I crossed a shallow sand bar and pulled my canoe towards the creek mouth. It is quite common experience already for me to be in and out of the boat to get through areas as it is so shallow. Finally pull up to the cabin all pumped up with the sunshine and possible fire close at hand. Up the bank I found some blueberries, wow this is awesome. I hate as much as I could find and then realized bears like berries too. Even better reason to stay in a cabin, except its all locked up. I walk around hoping for an unlocked door but nothing was found, even the tool shed was all locked up tight. Oh well it was still a wonderful day and I could knock off that portage and it seemed like a decent but completable distance to the shelter at Pat's Point. Back into the boat and made it to the portage. Really easy exit portage and when I turned to grab the boat to pull it in I was met with a double rainbow. Pretty sweet.



Loaded everything onto the cart and down the trail I went, the last long portage trail at 1.6km. Actually I enjoyed it because it was nice to get my feet warm and it was a break from the paddling and dragging I had to do for the last several hours. I stopped by a dead balsam that had a massive sap scar that was almost 5' in length. I chipped off a bunch of huge dried sap resin bulbs and filled a large zip lock bag. If I had to start wet wood for a dinner fire I would be set. Walking along and almost stepped in a massive pile of bear crap. Yup as I had thought, full of berries and shortly after the first pile was a secound pile. Oh great I thought the last thing I need is a bear problem. I wasn't worried though because I was going to the shelter at Pat's Point and this bear wouldn't be a problem there. Just over a 1km and the sunny sky was short lived. The clouds rolled back in bigger and blacker then before and down started the rain. Thankfully I was still in the suit and other then being sweaty I was still warm. As I got to the landing to leave the portage I heard the one thing that people on the water stay away from. Thunder. Heavy thunder roared from the west, though I could not see the lightning. I was frustrated because I either had to stay and chance a bear or go on the water and chance lighting. I wasn't thrilled with either. I checked out the camp area, and there were no camp pads any where. According to Google Maps later the site is shown as closed. No reason given. I went back on forth on the risk and decided I would rather camp here then risk being out on the water with lightning. So I made a fire using the balsam sap and split all the wet wood trying to find something dry to start. It took me while but, the sap was worth its weight in gold starting the fire. The wood sizzled and steamed but it burnt. Wasn't going to win any awards for heat output but, the cheery crackling flames boosted my spirits. I made my meal and set up my tent. I was looking foreword to dry clothes and a warm bed. I ate my meal and retired for the night. My tent sat on the trail a little ways due to no flat ground by the campsite. The big meal and warm dry sleep gear lulled me into a half asleep doze. then I heard it.

Bear Huffing

I heard a loud aggressive huffing coming down the trail. I went from almost sound asleep to 100000% adrenaline. Sure enough here came a bear towards my tent. From the sound of it he was mad about his porridge not being just right. I was praying and claiming promises, while thinking about what to do if he came through the tent wall. As I lay there freaking out the bear stopped at the side of my tent. Everything went quiet and what seems like an eternity passed. Then I heard the bear turn and run as fast he could back the way he came. I was very blessed that evening, but it took me an hour for my heart rate to drop down so I could sleep. Still get the chills hearing that huffing. It was a grizzly bear and he was so close to me. Campsite 43 if anyone wants to avoid that area.

Morning broke, quietly with a soft drizzle hitting my tent fly. See if I can get another fire going using the same method. Back into my damp dry suit, I am really getting my money worth out of this suit, it has held up really well. The same dry blue meets me with heavy clouds hanging low. Even less difficulty getting a fire started, pretty pleased with myself. Did I mention the reason I've become so good at starting fires is because I forgot to fill my fuel can from my truck before I left. I went to Wells over paperwork but my brain didn't wake up up in the night to remind me of my fuel. Feels like self betrayal. Though my fire starting skills in wet weather has really improved. Almost as good as Joe Robinet on the first season of Alone. Almost. After a meal around a crackling fire I load up the boat and push off into the grey mist. I hear a Loon call in the distance, I love loons. So sad and haunting. Tourists that come to Canada find it creepy and I guess it does sound other worldly unless you know what it is. I remember as a kid hearing it for the first time on my Dad's record of Dan Gibson Solitudes and falling in love with the sound of the silent wilderness it imbodies.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

SilentWilderness, thanks much for this detailed trip report with its many pictures of spectacular scenery. I've always wanted to do Bowron but it's so far away from me.

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And I'm avidly looking forward to the rest of your trip.

 

[SilentWilderness]

Thanks TR, I'm really enjoying it. That's some really pretty country and some great pics!


I think that's all of them, right off the shelf!


LOL... classic.

I may have to look at this route myself but, in the meantime, I'll look forward to your next installment.

The bag is a Canadian Tire special. I can't complain because the cost was wallet friendly and it's warm considering the flaws. They make tall person bags which makes me happy. There also not mummy bags which are awful if you enjoy doing the wash cycle as you sleep.

The next bag purchase that I have been eyeing is a Western Mountaineering Cypress GWS Expedition. It is not cost friendly and may be just a dream. I hear they are extremely warm.

 

[ppine]

Great TR. I have really enjoyed spending time in BC. This trip has been on my radar for decades. I have come close a couple of times but never made it up there. Too late now, but I just got a new travel trailer for long trips and plan to get back to BC in the near future.

One of the best classic canoe trips in North America.