Composite canoe storage questions

[Tsuga8]

Well, I seem to have n+1'ed myself into some storage issues for the winter, which has resulted in the following questions:

Can you store a composite canoe upright on saw horses, padded with carpet or pipe insulation? Specifically wondering about a white gold Morningstar and a blacklite Phoenix.

I've also heard claims that suspending a kevlar boat, as per the pic, without a wood trapeze can compress the hull. Have folks had this happen? (Aged Wenonah Vagabond pictured).

Apologies if the answer exists somewhere in existing threads - there's tons of good info across many threads but it's a lot to parse thru. Thanks!

 

[kahel]

I've also heard claims that suspending a kevlar boat, as per the pic, without a wood trapeze can compress the hull.

build a KISS* system.
to counteract this terrible thought ... what speaks against the construction of such a Trapeze?
this would at least eliminate the fear of the hull being pressed too hard.

regards
Michael

*(keep it stupid simple)

 

[Halpc]

I don’t see what the difference would be between suspending a boat, as in the photo, and storing it on a rack or sawhorses. It is supported in two places in each setup. I have hung composite and royalex canoes like that for over 30 years with no ill effects. I have also stored an old Kevlar TW Special upright on a table in a storage unit for several years. It is a heavy duty layup, compared to more modern boats, but does not seem to have been affected adversely by this treatment.

 

[Tsuga8]

build a KISS* system.
to counteract this terrible thought ... what speaks against the construction of such a Trapeze?
this would at least eliminate the fear of the hull being pressed too hard.

regards
Michael

*(keep it stupid simple)

This is the KISSiest system I've come up with, requiring only cam straps. Loop around two exposed rafters, then around boat. Tighten. Simple. The problem is that the strap needs to slide and rotate, which a piece of wood as a trapeze would stop. I could loosen the straps an inch or two and wedge a piece of 1x2 in as a trapeze. But if the thwarts are doing the job any way, it'd be simpler not to.

Because of a low garage ceiling, I need the boat snugged up to the rafters, which it seems would make it less KISS if I had hanging trapezes loose enough to easily slide a boat into that I then needed to tighten somehow. But, maybe a sliding friction hitch under 1x2 trapeze bars...see the ideas come but the KISS principle stops my contriving.... Trying to KISS to the max without damaging a boat.

 

[Tsuga8]

Thanks Halpc, that's reassuring to hear!

 

[GeoBoy]

I made my spreader bars out of plastic conduit that I purchased at the local hardware store. Cut them to length and thread your strapping, rope, etc. through them and mount to the rafters, I used eye bolts.

 

[Cheeseandbeans]

I made my spreader bars out of plastic conduit that I purchased at the local hardware store. Cut them to length and thread your strapping, rope, etc. through them and mount to the rafters, I used eye bolts.

I have a similar system under a covered deck/porch. Kevlar, wood/canvas, fiberglass, and Royalex canoes are all kept there year round with no issues. This would be cost effective and simple to add to your current setup if you had concerns.

Bob

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Can you store a composite canoe upright on saw horses, padded with carpet or pipe insulation?

What do you mean by "upright"?

If you mean with the canoe upside down resting on the gunwales, of course.

If you mean with the canoe rightside up resting on the bottom of the hull, then there is some risk of hull indentation by the sawhorse crossbars. I've kept a couple of composite canoes rightside up on the floor of my garage on top of carpets for many years, and don't believe there's been any flattening of the hull, but that spreads the hull weight over a much greater area than two sawhorse crossbars.

 

[Alan Gage]

I've hung composite canoes in the way your picture shows with no issue.

Because most composite canoes are quite lightweight and stiff bottomed I wouldn't be too concerned about storing one upright on sawhorses either. But, if storing on sawhorses, I'm not sure why you wouldn't stored it upside down. That would alleviate any concern and keep the inside of the hull cleaner.

Alan

 

[Tsuga8]

I said saw horses as a linguistic shortcut, but I should have explained more clearly. In fact it's a 3-tiered rack built onto the garage wall, with each tier consisting of two cantilevered 2x4s, 5 feet apart. So each boat rests on the 1.5" side of the 2x4, plus some carpet strips. The reason to keep it 'upright', ie keel down and gunnels up, as opposed to properly gunnels down, is two-fold. 1) on the lower tier, it's much easier to flip a boat off my shoulders to waist height and slide it onto the waist-high tier holding the yoke. 2) The other issue is that the Morningstar turns out to be just barely too wide/long for the rack, which is in the corner of the garage, and the gunnel slips off the outer edge of one 2x4. (The rack was built before the Morningstar.) But it can sit on the rack keel down and gunnels up. However, the 2x4s aren't evenly distributed lengthwise because of the garage corner. Not ideal at all.



I think ideally I'd retrofit straps to support the weight better like the stands folks sit boats in to work on them - in the interrim I may just add a saw horse farther down the length of Morningstar so I can rest it on its gunnels properly, with one rack strut taking half the weight and the sawhorse taking the rest.

 

[Alan Gage]

Maybe just add something thicker, and softer, on top of the 2x4 for it to rest on. Like a pool noodle.

Or extend the length of the 2x4 by sistering another piece to the side of the current one.

Alan

 

[Tsuga8]

Thanks, Alan. Both practical and easy suggestions - my favorite kind!