Overnight the wind switched to the West and was pretty stiff but that was better than the North wind from the day before. Under an overcast sky we shoved off and continued our way north to try and get the heck off Wollaston Lake. As we were now mainly heading north in a narrower section of the lake I could do a decent job hiding from the wind but the irregular shoreline and multitude of bays where the wind could get at us kept it from being too relaxing of a paddle. A couple times we had to cross some wide channels and were reminded just how strong the wind was blowing when we had to take it head on. Thankfully in this more confined area of the lake the waves only had a short fetch so couldn’t build that high. If we’d been on the larger portion of the lake we wouldn’t have been able to paddle. Stopped around 1:30 for a snack of almonds and fruit and took a short nap. Even out of the wind it was cold on shore but then the sun would peak out for 10-15 minutes and warm things up before going back into hiding again.
Looking at the map I realized this non-favorable wind would turn into a tail wind when we reached the top of this portion of the lake and took a hard turn to the East. It would make for a long day of tough paddling but I decided I really wanted that tailwind. I knew I wouldn’t reach the turn until evening and was so afraid the wind would die before we got there but at 6:30 we made the turn and felt that lovely wind on our backs as we sailed along amidst big rollers for about 5 miles before turning north down a protected channel that would not only put us at the end of the lake but at the beginning of the Cochrane River and Bigstone Rapids, where I planned to find a campsite.
As we paddled up this channel surrounded by low ground campsites didn’t look very promising; but I wasn’t worried as it seems there’s always a campsite at a large rapids. Since there was so much fishing on this lake there might even be a boat cache on each end. Well, we finally arrived at the head of the rapids and found burned over and regenerating bog on either side of the river. The ground was covered by about 1 1/2 feet of moss. 75% of the trees were laying on the ground and the other 25% weren’t far behind. I’m pretty sure half a dozen fell over every time a moose farted. Not only that but I was having a hard time even finding where the portage landing was. This is not what I was looking forward to after 33miles of paddling and 12 hours on the water. It was 8:45pm.
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Alan, on Flickr
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Alan, on Flickr
Since I hadn’t found the actual portage landing yet I got close to the head of the rapids and walked inland through the brush on river right hoping to cut across the trail. Found two trails and of course followed the wrong one first. Got on the other trail and followed it until I was confident it was the right trail and then took it back upstream where it led me to the correct portage landing a little upstream of where I’d landed. On the rocks along shore was a dry bag that had been shredded by a bear.
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Alan, on Flickr
I picked up my gear pack and set off. It was not a pleasant or easy walk and keeping track of the trail was difficult at times; especially when it seemed to simply end in a maze of tangled blow downs. Sadie turned to the left on a faintly visible trail and when I followed her soon saw a piece of survey tape. This trail went down to the edge of the river in a section of swift but flat water. I’d already been walking a long time and thought perhaps this was the end of the rapids but standing on a small rise I looked downriver and saw the rapid still going at least 3/8 of a mile (.6km) downstream and disappearing around the bend. I groaned, kept walking, and wondered how I was going to get 3 more loads across as darkness was quickly approaching. The last 1/4 of the trail was still a bit wet and sloppy but had gained some higher ground and wasn’t nearly as bad. It ended with a steep descent to Bannock Lake where I found no shoreline to speak of. I hadn’t seen any place along the trail where it would even be possible to camp. It was getting late when I started walking back to the canoe. I set the timer on my watch to see how long it would take me to walk the trail back. It took 33 minutes of hard walking and was now a little after 10:30. It was still light enough to see by but not for long. No way was I going to carry loads across that trail in the dark. I grabbed my 30L food barrel and left my 60L food barrel in the canoe tied up along shore. I’d just have to hope the bear had been satiated by whatever had been in that dry bag and didn’t come back looking for more. Sadie had curled up under a bush and it took me walking off without her to convince her I was serious about going on.
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Alan, on Flickr
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Alan, on Flickr
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Alan, on Flickr
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Alan, on Flickr
I still didn’t know where I was going to sleep. I was less picky now and hoped I’d find something near the other end of the portage trail where I could erect some kind of shelter or at least lie down flat on something other than water logged moss. Despite these concerns it was quite pretty looking over the tail end of the rapid where it expanded into a wide boulder fan in the fading light. The sun had set long ago but the twilight seemed to last forever and although stars were starting to shine there was still a noticeable glow on the horizon. When we reached shore at the bottom of the hill we found the air thick with moths and dozens of nighthawks silently coursing up and down the rapids skimming just over the surface. How they could see them at such speeds in near darkness is beyond me.
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Alan, on Flickr
After hopping over a short stretch of rocks I found a patch of grass along shore big enough for me to lie down but not much more. It wasn’t wide enough to erect my shelter. Not even wide enough to rig it up as some sort of lean-to and nothing to tie off to anyway. It was the best I’d seen so I put down my sleeping pad just after 11:30 and hoped it didn’t rain. Sadie had curled up under a bush and I arranged the two packs to hem her in a bit and block some of the breeze that was coming off the lake. Then I lay down for the night with water 1’ from my toes, 1 1/2’ from my left shoulder and my right shoulder up against the hill side. It didn’t rain and I slept surprisingly well. I woke up once in the middle of the night to a nice display of the northern lights directly overhead.
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Alan, on Flickr
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Alan, on Flickr
The morning brought sunshine and light wind. Put on my wet boots, set the sleeping bag on the bushes to dry in the sun, and went back to see if my food and canoe and survived the night. It was a relief to find them both just where I’d left them and by late morning we were paddling down Bannock Lake and finally feeling the pull of some current beneath the hull.
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Alan, on Flickr
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Alan, on Flickr
Sadie taking a break:
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Alan, on Flickr
I stopped around noon to cook lunch. It was the first food I’d had other than almonds, fruit, and M&Ms since breakfast the previous morning. We were able to run Fitch Rapids without problem but I was slightly concerned that when I pulled ashore to scout I was unable to find any sign of a portage trail. I’m used to finding a portage around nearly every rapids and wondered if this would be a common theme. It could make my trip back upstream a bit difficult.
The skies clouded up in the late afternoon with a couple very light and brief showers but it all cleared up an hour or so before sunset. We found ourselves in a long narrow bay on Charcoal Lake. The wind had completely died and it was absolutely silent in camp as we stood by the river and watched the fish rising in the long twilight. That night I had a tough time sleeping as it was very chilly. Slept in a little to let the sun come up and warm our shelter before getting out of bed. Cooked breakfast and started packing up camp. It was 2 hours after sunrise and as I was taking down the shelter I noticed something along the bottom edge where the condensation had accumulated. I couldn’t believe my eyes and had to pick it up and hold it in my hand to be sure. It was a piece of ice 8” long. This was August 9th and only 1 week into the trip. What the heck did I get myself into?