New snowplow driver, still working on his skills. I've always heard that poly was really hard to repair. Any ideas, or is it trash? I'm contemplating maybe cutting the entire end off and trying to turn it into a square stern.
Thoughts?
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New snowplow driver, still working on his skills. I've always heard that poly was really hard to repair. Any ideas, or is it trash? I'm contemplating maybe cutting the entire end off and trying to turn it into a square stern.
Thoughts?
I have the 158 and Kineo is basically the same boat. It's that polywhateverthehellitis stuff that doesn't play well with resin IMO, tried to fix a couple of those boats but nothing lasts long and the fixes I did didn't last long. I'm sure others will chime in but my experience is that unless, maybe, you can do plastic welding (?) not much else is going to last a long time.
That hurts to look at!
dougd
That hurts to look at!
dougd
I’m not sure what similarities Polyethylene canoes may have with High Density Polyethylene whitewater kayaks, but as DougD alluded to we haven’t seen long term success with DIY or professional plastic welding on kayaks.
Barry
Barry
New snowplow driver, still working on his skills.
QUOTE]
Ouch!!
Problem with those poly canoes is that they are indestructible until they are not. Plus, too ugly to cut in half for a book shelf. Plus, how would one hang shelves anyway? I'm still thinking of a plywood transom, finding somekind of flexible corner shaped thing that I could place around the seam, then screwing it on, then try g-flex or something to seal the seam. I heard once that g-flex worked on poly, anyone know if that's true. If I can't fix it, what the heck do I do with it? Grow radishes and green onions in it?
G
Guest
Guest
G/flex does work on poly, I have used it on some poly kayak application and it has held just fine.
“Proper” G/flex application for poly, according to West System’s tests with different surface preps is to alcohol wipe and flame treat. See link (and scroll down for poly surface prep)
https://westsysteminternational.com/en/west-system/west-system-g-flex-epoxy
“Proper” G/flex application for poly, according to West System’s tests with different surface preps is to alcohol wipe and flame treat. See link (and scroll down for poly surface prep)
https://westsysteminternational.com/en/west-system/west-system-g-flex-epoxy
I'm contemplating maybe cutting the entire end off and trying to turn it into a square stern.
Thoughts?
I think the snowplow driver is getting framed. This was no accident. You broke that canoe on purpose just so you can experiment with turning a regular canoe into a square stern. If it works I'm sure the rest of your canoes will suffer similar "accidents."
"Oh, look. The milkman backed into the Chum. Guess I'll have to turn it into a square stern."
Alan
Should be able to get it replaced through your home insurance, likely cover up to $2000. I was able to claim a canoe I lost on the river through my house insurance, the process was a pain but it was an option. I did find the canoe about 2 weeks later and cancelled the claim.....
What a potential snowmobile sled!
That would be one expensive fix using strictly G-Flex! heck, I've only seen it sold in the little bottles and that fix would sure take a lot!
I like that snowmobile sled idea! If I put it through insurance, they will probably go after the snow plow company, and the fella is a friend of ours, don't want him to get fired. Plus, there is always Alan's theory, although the Chum will probably be traded for a 9.9 before I can turn it to the dark side.
Maybe this fellow could make you a transom. It would have to be thicker than the standard 9/16", since there's nothing else back there. I would think that with a correctly shaped stern plug, a bunch of generously washered stainless steel wood screws and some outdoor grade construction sealant you could make it seaworthy.
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ok...bear with me here. Cut out the broken part. Shape a piece of 1/4, or 5/16 plywood to fit the inside of the hull. Use the PRC aircraft grade fuel tank sealer/adhesive I have ( one tube left) around the edges. The trick is how to secure it. I am actually leaning towards canoe tacks hammered in like rivets...I have some larger copper ones. then a piece of 1/8 plywood on the outside to bring the repair as flush with the hull as possible. Might have to run it through the planer. Seal and paint as required.
Plan B...flowerbed.
Plan C...I do like YC 's idea of a back sleigh for the sled.
Plan B...flowerbed.
Plan C...I do like YC 's idea of a back sleigh for the sled.
G
Guest
Guest
Um, some curve cut or steam bent horizontal boards screwed in on either side as shelf hangers? It would be, uh, what’s Canadian for “redneck”?
It might actually make a cool storage cabinet in a boatwork shop if nothing else. Maybe cut in half for two 8 foot tall shop cabinets /_\ /_\. The curved shelf edges and (_) cabinet doors would be fun to make.
Not sure how well it would track as a sled; maybe add keels, or runners? Raised garden bed, worm farm bin or frou-frou heated koi pond, giant beer cooler lined with insulating foam for parties. Mailbox and package receptacle at the end of the driveway; “Can’t miss it, it’s the house with the canoe mailbox”.
A friend wanted to try that with an unbroken double ender. I was horrified at the thought of cutting the stem off a perfectly good canoe, but your snowplow guy has eliminated that angst.
It would be interesting to see if it worked with the stress and torque of even a small outboard as a DIY square stern. Wear your PFD.
If you really wanted to salvage it I would lay up a backing plate a few inches over sized to cover the tear, maybe 4-6 layers of glass or carbon/kevlar and pop rivet it on the inside. Then cover with another layer or 3 of cloth on the outside with g/flex to fair the tear and seal the rivets.
Ha ha ha, that one made me laugh pretty good. If I go stern heavy, and use that end for the bow, it will never touch the water anyway.
Dang! That stinks.
question though Mem... what respectable Canadian would store a perfectly good extension cord outside in a snowbank all winter?
Jason
question though Mem... what respectable Canadian would store a perfectly good extension cord outside in a snowbank all winter?
Jason
Lol, I'm thinking you are joking with me, but just in case, that extension cord plugs into our vehicles at night so they will start in the morning. We have these interesting things called block heaters installed on our engines so that those -40 starts actually start.
On the plus side, my buddy who is a local welder, has a plastic welder and thinks he might be able fix it.
On the plus side, my buddy who is a local welder, has a plastic welder and thinks he might be able fix it.
G
Guest
Guest
I’ll be interested in how plastic welding comes out. I was trying to remember the Kineo and found a review
“I've never seen a canoe oilcan this much. It makes me nervous. Even with a full load, the barrels are bouncing up and down with every paddle stroke.
It carries a large load and has gotten me through some bad whitewater, but it is a pig to paddle, and a cow to carry. At 16'6" it was advertised as 85 pounds, but it feels closer to 90. The carrying thwart was off center, I redrilled to make it balance, and that helped quite a bit on the long ports. I replaced the plastic seats with wooden ones I had made.
It's a pig meant to be abused, that's about all I can say.”
Ow, that last line. . . . . . .
“I've never seen a canoe oilcan this much. It makes me nervous. Even with a full load, the barrels are bouncing up and down with every paddle stroke.
It carries a large load and has gotten me through some bad whitewater, but it is a pig to paddle, and a cow to carry. At 16'6" it was advertised as 85 pounds, but it feels closer to 90. The carrying thwart was off center, I redrilled to make it balance, and that helped quite a bit on the long ports. I replaced the plastic seats with wooden ones I had made.
It's a pig meant to be abused, that's about all I can say.”
Ow, that last line. . . . . . .
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