Yes, I need a spray cover for the summer-long trip down the Missouri River. Reading the posts by members of this site have convinced me its use will outweigh the disadvantages. However, I got stuck on the “Now drill 60 holes in the side of your boat to attach the snaps.” I built a cedar strip just for the trip, I can’t put a bunch of holes in her; at least not without a story about rapids and large rocks. So time to look around the shop for alternatives to snaps.
Hook and loop would be too temporary for a 3 month trip; I’m sure it would peel off or get gummed up with mud and river debris. A cinch cord around the perimeter would not be tight enough in the center of the canoe. Maybe a clamp that attaches to the gunnels would do the job. So, I tried extra large binder clips, which held the cover but it was wider than the gunnels and stuck out to the side about ¾”. Plus it’s made of metal so it would probably rust before the trip ended.
Gunnel clamps made of PVC that have been heated to a malleable temperature is the home-made solution. I used some 2 inch diameter PVC sewer pipe cut into rings about 1/2 inch wide, then cut the rings in half to make a couple “C” shaped pieces. I heated them for a few minutes on the shop (clothing) iron until they become soft enough to straighten, flattening them with a board pressed on top. While it is still very warm, clamp the now straightened PVC strip around a piece of wood or other form that is the same thickness as your canoe’s gunnel. It should now look like the letter “J”. Let it cool for a minute (literally), then give it a try, snapping it over the outer gunnel. The longer, top of the “J” goes on top of the gunnel, facing inward. Sand and round the edges so it does not cut through the spray cover. Drill a small hole in the top of the “J” for a string to be attached to it and the spray cover, so they don’t fall into the river and become a fossil in the mud.
I sewed a 1.5” wide nylon rub strip (lightweight webbing) the length of the spray cover on both sides at the location where it meets the gunnel. This should protect the cloth from the abrasion of the clips being attached and removed. Depending on your gunnel width, maybe 2” wide webbing would be better. This would also give some range/variability for tall gear beneath the cover. I also sewed small tabs that just stick out from behind the webbing to provide attachment places for the strings. Give the PVC clips a coat of spray paint and get on the water!
My gunnels are mostly square but I know many canoes have tapered gunnels. You’ll have to make the wooden form the same size and shape to match your gunnels. An additional bend in the PVC may be needed at the inner edge of the gunnel to make it more secure.
This project is yet untested. So far it’s just the restless actions of someone wanting to do something canoe related while it’s winter. However, after following this excellent site for some time I know helpful comments and thoughtful critiques will follow in the discussion. Bring it!
Hook and loop would be too temporary for a 3 month trip; I’m sure it would peel off or get gummed up with mud and river debris. A cinch cord around the perimeter would not be tight enough in the center of the canoe. Maybe a clamp that attaches to the gunnels would do the job. So, I tried extra large binder clips, which held the cover but it was wider than the gunnels and stuck out to the side about ¾”. Plus it’s made of metal so it would probably rust before the trip ended.
Gunnel clamps made of PVC that have been heated to a malleable temperature is the home-made solution. I used some 2 inch diameter PVC sewer pipe cut into rings about 1/2 inch wide, then cut the rings in half to make a couple “C” shaped pieces. I heated them for a few minutes on the shop (clothing) iron until they become soft enough to straighten, flattening them with a board pressed on top. While it is still very warm, clamp the now straightened PVC strip around a piece of wood or other form that is the same thickness as your canoe’s gunnel. It should now look like the letter “J”. Let it cool for a minute (literally), then give it a try, snapping it over the outer gunnel. The longer, top of the “J” goes on top of the gunnel, facing inward. Sand and round the edges so it does not cut through the spray cover. Drill a small hole in the top of the “J” for a string to be attached to it and the spray cover, so they don’t fall into the river and become a fossil in the mud.
I sewed a 1.5” wide nylon rub strip (lightweight webbing) the length of the spray cover on both sides at the location where it meets the gunnel. This should protect the cloth from the abrasion of the clips being attached and removed. Depending on your gunnel width, maybe 2” wide webbing would be better. This would also give some range/variability for tall gear beneath the cover. I also sewed small tabs that just stick out from behind the webbing to provide attachment places for the strings. Give the PVC clips a coat of spray paint and get on the water!
My gunnels are mostly square but I know many canoes have tapered gunnels. You’ll have to make the wooden form the same size and shape to match your gunnels. An additional bend in the PVC may be needed at the inner edge of the gunnel to make it more secure.
This project is yet untested. So far it’s just the restless actions of someone wanting to do something canoe related while it’s winter. However, after following this excellent site for some time I know helpful comments and thoughtful critiques will follow in the discussion. Bring it!
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