Royalex skid plate removal and reapplication

[Glenn MacGrady]

Looks like good progress, HMST.

I had intended to apply the G-Flex with a syringe as suggested, but ended up opting to deposit the epoxy into the cavity and spread it out with a toothpick.

Too late for you now, but for any future syringe users, you can increase syringe flow by snipping off the end so the opening is larger. Of course, you still have to spread it with something such as a popsicle stick.

I opted to over-fill a little with the intention to sand it back

If you are careful not to cut too deep, I've found humps of G/Flex can be quickly shaved off by a sharp knife before getting to sanding.

 

[H.M.S. Tinytanic]

If you are careful not to cut too deep, I've found humps of G/Flex can be quickly shaved off by a sharp knife before getting to sanding.

NOTED!

That should save a significant amount of time!

I think I'll save the syringe for smaller repairs that require more precision. For this job I didn't have any issues keeping the where it was needed. Definitely a tool/technique I'm excited to employ!

 

[Will Derness]

When finishing I opted to over-fill a little with the intention to sand it back rather than risk needing an additional layer which would slow progress significantly by adding another work day.

Today, the plan is to prep for the glass layer tonight and hopefully get it applied.
At this stage I am weighing a couple of options. Which layers should the graphite additive be used on? The outermost for sure, but is it worth using on layers further inward as well? I believe once the first fiberglass layer is semi-set (I think "green" is the technical term) additional layers (the Dynel outer layer) can be applied without compromising integrity. If this is appropriate, it would save an additional work day.

From left to right the attached photos show the afflicted area, post clean-up, and filled with thickened G-Flex.

Good work,

I would be inclined to take a coarse tooth steel rasp to remove and shape your excess epoxy, that will be quicker than hand sanding.

I have applied 2 cloth layers in one epoxy session, but I had everything laid out ahead for layer 2 - fabric, pre-measured, yet unmixed, epoxy amounts, carbon, etc. I think my working time for layer 2 was less as the clock started when I mixed epoxy for layer one. When happy with layer one I could look at my watch to see if I had enough time for layer 2. If not, return the unmixed epoxy to their containers.

Carbon question - how much of the bottom do you want to look black, and what shape? My tastes lean to reserving carbon for dynel plate(s).

 

[pblanc]

I have applied additional layers of thickened epoxy to fill voids, or additional layers of fabric as soon as the previous application has cured to the point of being solid enough to not sag or run. If you need to shape the epoxy, you will need to allow it to cure a bit longer although not necessarily completely.
If you are applying a layer of Dynel fabric with epoxy/graphite powder mix over a layer of fiberglass, there is no need or reason to add graphite powder to the epoxy you use to wet out or bond the fiberglass.

 

[kman28]

Looks like the past post was in 2012. Any update on how this project ended? Was it a success? Have the repairs lasted? Any suggestions where you would have done something different?

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Looks like the past post was in 2012. Any update on how this project ended? Was it a success? Have the repairs lasted? Any suggestions where you would have done something different?

Kman, welcome to site membership! Feel free to ask any questions and to post messages, photos and videos in our many forums. Please read Welcome to CanoeTripping and Site Rules! We look forward to your participation in our canoe community.

Tinytanic's last post was on August 2, 2022. If he doesn't respond again to this thread, you can try to engage him in a private conversation (private message) by clicking either on his avatar or on the envelope icon on the upper right of any page here. Starting a private conversation will also generate an email to him with your questions or comments.

 

[Black_Fly]

I wonder if improper skid plate installation results in the need to replace. A few years ago, I saw some mfr installed skids that were still fuzzy and soft. Nor were they installed straight along the stems. Not sure why they were not properly saturated with resin before application, but that was clearly inadequate. Soft felt doesn’t protect anything. Are soft skids a thing? Saving weight, perhaps?

 

[ppine]

Some people abuse their canoes. Maybe they need big clumsy skid plates. I have never liked them at all especially on the sheer of a canoe.
I add a couple of layers of fiberglass tape with epoxy and paint over them. When wear shows up I add another layer.

 

[larrypac]

On various threads on this site, I've seen references to the cost of skid plates from Old Town, that rise steadily depending on how old the posts are. Just thought I'd throw out there that they are currently (6/06/24) asking $428 for a pair. I say asking because it's hard to believe anyone would actually pay that.

 

[Black_Fly]

I’ve got some felt I’ll sell you for half that cost .

 

[larrypac]

I put a double layer of 6 oz fiberglass cloth bedded and then wetted out with 1/2 105 epoxy and 1/2 G flex as suggested by someone here. Did that mostly because I'm cheap and want to do 3 or 4 skid plates with one 8 oz. set of G flex. In trying to sand before I put a finish coat of epoxy to make it "fair" there are lots of small low spots that will not sand easily. Are these important to rough up or is 90% sanded good enough? I think I might have a small wire wheel on a Dremel that would get into all those spaces, but it might just clog up immediately . I had intended to put a layer of Dynel on top but Sweets wanted $14 for shipping 1 yard, plus the $18 cost of the material. wasn't sure it was worth it since I'm just fixing it up to sell. BTW, the hardener on the G flex is some nasty smelling $hit. Took it outside to mix it.

 

[ppine]

those are some ugly looking stems.
Will might be on to something with his list of specialized equipment. I have never used most of that stuff, but I always have some epoxy around and some fiberglass tape. I like to use a 2 inch strip, followed by a 3 inch strip on the stems with multiple coats of epoxy. Then I paint it.
For filling the serious voids on this boat, I would use microballoons ,the colloidal silica as a thickener with regular epoxy. Peanut butter is the right consistency to stay put and set up. Then the tape and paint, because the silica cures out white, and the cured fiberglass is clear.

I have always thought that the felt or kevlar strips are clunky looking and do not speed up a canoe any on the stems.