Royalex MR Explorer Cold Cracks - Advice & Repair

[madamimadam]

I'm actually the seller of this canoe. I have to say that this forum is really a gem -- good information and cordial conversation -- not a combination you find on the internet very much. I was not a member of canoetripping.net before, but now I'm an avid reader

I also love seeing this boat restored. I, normally, would have been up for the task***, but I wanted to get a lighter canoe thanks to a back injury that's been causing problems. I always liked the MR; watching the repair is like watching an episode of This Old House. Kudos @Jmharrick

*** EDIT: I would not have known exactly what to do until I saw the great youtube videos from @dcloots

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I'm actually the seller of this canoe.

Madamimadam (nice palindrome, Adam), let me briefly go off topic to welcome you to site membership. Feel free to ask any questions and to post messages, photos and videos, and to start threads, in our many forums. Please read Welcome to CanoeTripping and Site Rules! How to use many of the site's technical features is explained in Features: Help and How-To Running Thread. We look forward to your participation in our canoe community!

Thanks for your kind words about our community. I believe your sale transaction with @Jmharrick has generated a very interesting and informational thread on cold cracks in Royalex that will be helpful to many future readers. If you need any suggestions about a lighter canoe, there are many threads here, or you can just ask again.

 

[Jmharrick]

I'm actually the seller of this canoe. I have to say that this forum is really a gem

@madamimadam, I’m glad to see you took my advice and checked out the forum. This truly is a great place to ask questions, gain knowledge, and find interesting topics related to canoeing. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time as a member.

 

[Chip]

Pete's post, with which I completely agree, sent me to the dictionary. Trabeculae is an anatomical term, but works well to describe what he's talking about: a structural part resembling a small beam or crossbar, for the less anatomically informed, such as me. I don't think I have previously encountered that word.

 

[pblanc]

Pete's post, with which I completely agree, sent me to the dictionary. Trabeculae is an anatomical term, but works well to describe what he's talking about: a structural part resembling a small beam or crossbar, for the less anatomically informed, such as me. I don't think I have previously encountered that word.

Check out trabecular bone, also known as cancellous or "spongy" bone. The photo shows the structure of this type of bone which we are all walking around with. Maybe not exactly like Royalex foam core structure but rather similar.

 

[MrPoling]

I think my Dagger Reflection has osteoporosis.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Although West Systems describes flame oxidation as optional for ABS, I recommend against it when foam core is exposed as the thin trabeculae of the exposed core are easily melted.

Check out trabecular bone, also known as cancellous or "spongy" bone. The photo shows the structure of this type of bone which we are all walking around with. Maybe not exactly like Royalex foam core structure but rather similar.

Summarizing Dr. Blanc's advice, I suppose we shouldn't use a torch to flame oxidize our femur bones.

 

[Jmharrick]

Update: I apologize for the delay. Life gets in the way sometimes.

My last post ended with epoxy curing in the cold cracks. After the epoxy cured I took the advice you all have given me and drilled out the existing holes in the hull with a larger bit.

I also got to work cleaning, sanding, and oiling the yoke, handles, decks, and gunwales.

Here’s the yoke after sanding and then watco teak oil.


Here are the grab handles before and after.


The decks

And a good comparison of before and after sanding the gunwales..

After two liberal coats of watco teak oil, I cleaned the hull with soapy water and it was time to reinstall everything. I was able to salvage all the existing hardware.

After reinstalling everything I sprayed the hull inside and out with 303 Protectant and wiped everything down. I’m happy with the results. I think it looks good for a 1993.




We had an unseasonably warm day today. It was 62 degrees near Pittsburgh, Pa, and I was able to sneak out with the dog and my almost 4 yr old for a quick evening paddle on a local lake.

I think the MRE is going to work out for us just fine. Thanks for all the advice and for following along.

-Jake

 

[madamimadam]

This boat looks brand new! Impressive. Do you have an experience with paddle restoration? I have a couple old Sawyer paddles that had some gloppy fiberglass applications over the years (I bought them used).... perhaps I should start a new thread tho

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Looks great, Jake. Did you do anything cosmetic to try to cover up the epoxy filled cracks?

 

[Jmharrick]

This boat looks brand new! Impressive. Do you have an experience with paddle restoration? I have a couple old Sawyer paddles that had some gloppy fiberglass applications over the years (I bought them used).... perhaps I should start a new thread tho

Adam,

I don’t have experience with it, but I’m sure we could figure it out. Starting a new thread is a good idea. There are quite a few paddle makers in this site.

Looks great, Jake. Did you do anything cosmetic to try to cover up the epoxy filled cracks?

Glenn,

The cracks aren’t very long and only extend 1-3 inches below the gunwales. The g-flex yellow doesn’t clash too bad against the dark green of the hull. I left them as is. I think it would potentially look worse to try to match a paint color to the hull versus leaving them as is. I’ll call them “beauty marks”

-Jake

 

[kahel]

I’ll call them “beauty marks”

That's the way it is - in the course of life you get scars ... this is also the case with this canoe.

Great work.